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1985 Evinrude 55 Commercial Powerhead

M

Markfla

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Hello, 39 years later after lots of TLC, I'm ready for a replacement power head or a new outboard. I know very little about outboards and what interchanges. My engine model is Evinrude E55RWLCOS

Its a Commercial Engine, 2 cylinder 55hp and my understanding is it may have had a 70 lower unit in addition to pull start and tiller control. The water jacket around the top cylinder sleeve has cracked away. JB weld and a new head gasket did not solve the problem. I have low compression and high cylinder leak down compared to the bottom cylinder. I'm also getting cooling water into the cylinder right away.

Are quality rebuilt power heads available for this rare engine? If I was looking for a good used power head, what blocks would fit this mid section and lower unit without modifications? Thank you.
 

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the 2 cylinder 40 / 45 / 48 / 50 HP blocks could well be used as a replacement.----Note---- there is nothing different about these compared to the regular engine parts.------The block may have a hole in a different location for shift rod linkage.
 
Location South Florida. What would be the last year one of these alternate engines should fit? Driveshaft could be reused then? Ideally a donor would come from a fresh water area. Over 40 years even with flushing after every use, corrosion got pretty bad. Thank you for the information. Is there a reputable company that supplies rebuilt power heads for these older outboards?
 
They used to rebuild older motors.----But not anymore.-----I am too far away to help you on this simple ( to me ) issue.----Hard to find a shop that will help with this one.
 
racerone, couldn’t sleep. Was thinking maybe the water jacket might have corroded enough that cooling water was leaking into the exhaust port and into the cylinder. I had put our smoke leak detector on the pee tube and was getting smoke out both spark plug hole, but then thought my test was invalid.

Since I couldn’t sleep, Decided to pull the side cover and see what I could see. Got all the way to the last 2 bolts at the bottom of the plate and sure enough there is no access. I replaced the rubber mounts under the power head some years ago. I had the power head hoisted off the engine for this task. The lower engine cover is not removable without pulling the power head and it’s the lower engine cover blocking the last 2 bolts. Nice engineering.

I could try and drill access holes, but that’s a hack method and I really just want to see for myself, but not enough to pull the power head when repair parts are NLA. It was a good run. Not sure if I mentioned we were out shooting video in preparation of selling the boat when it lost power. It’s an 86 Boston whaler 15 sport in excellent condition. Was hoping to do ok selling it. Got two choices now. Sell As is and take the hit. Repower with new and hope to get the money and time invested back.

Thanks for letting me go on. Feeling Blue.
 
It lasted 39 years and you say it was not well engineered ???----First take lower unit apart for inspection.----Then decide if a powerhead repair is worthwhile.------Used parts may be on E-bay.---Or --evinrudeparts.ca---
 
Lower unit is solid. Shifts fine and resealed it along with a new water pump last summer.

What I meant is that an inch more clearance to the lower cowl or the ability to drop the cowl and you could easily remove the cooling jacket side cover bolts.

Didn’t mean to imply it was unsatisfactory engine. But I accept the criticism.
 
It sucking water around sleeve...the Johnrude 35hp in the 80's had a thin casting that would warp if it got excessively hot. The casting would pull away from sleeve and engine would suck water in that cylinder. You should be able to find a used powerhead on Facebook as tons of the 48's was made but gearcases failed. Here is one for $350

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By removing the peripherals I was able to shift the lower cowl and remove the last 2 side cover bolts. Lots of salt and corrosion, but no visible cracks into the exhaust port. The rest of the cooling system probably looks the same. So since I found the cracked casting I posted above, I’m inclined to agree with coolant finding its way into the cylinder even with my JB fingers crossed repair.

Power head is ready to come off. I’m starting my search for a replacement good used power head once I learn years and models that interchange with my lower unit and peripherals. Never got on Facebook but I have friends that can search for me once I know what to shop for. It was a good engine. RIP. Thank you. Mark
 
The 2 cylinder crankshaft spline was the same up to 1992 models.---So the spline on your driveshaft fits just about all of them !
 
My manual start assembly attaches to a boss on the power head and to what I would call the front cover that the carbs attach 2. The engines I’m finding don’t seem to have that provision since they are elec start. Swapping the front cover and flywheel is not a problem as long as the front covers are interchangeable on these 2 cylinder engines. I could likely use our host to compare dimensions using gasket part numbers. Thank you
 
It be very simple to find a solution to this.----But do not overthink this.-----Hole position for shift arm might be the only issue.
 
racerone said:
It be very simple to find a solution to this.----But do not overthink this.-----Hole position for shift arm might be the only issue.
Click to expand...
Trying not to overthink it. The shifter arm? Are you refering to the cast bosses that support the connector to the down rod? I found a fresh water dressed power head on ebay. Comparing the pictures I took of my engine and the pictures they posted, it looks like this engine will work. I did compare intake manifold gasket part numbers and my intake for the manual start should swap over. I'm wondering why they say it won't work.

www.ebay.com

432013 Johnson Evinrude 1982-1988 Completely Dressed Powerhead 40 48 50 HP 2 Cyl | eBay

432013 (supercede 0396914). Johnson and Evinrude. 1982-1988 - 40 48 50 HP. Cowling Covers. Bargain Bin parts. If you send your phone number, we will call you back with your quote in order to expedite service.
www.ebay.com

Thank you.
 
“Should” 100% sure would make me feel more comfortable. I’m surprised the company would say no. They are probably using a cross reference guide, not actual fitting different power heads up and they likely don’t want me calling and saying it did not work. They have a return policy. The appeal is fresh water use. Don’t get those often in S FL. Thanks for the “should”. I’ll think about it some more.
 
If I have to chose cut the red wire or the black wire, it should be 50/50. My experience is 90/10 I picked the wrong wire. 95% is very good odds. I’m going to go old school and call them. Thanks for all the experience. 🤞
 
Would there be a difference in the bosses that support shaft 51 or is it the shaft itself? In other words could I swap my shaft over to the replacement power head. My shift rod from the lower unit has a special pin bolt that secures it to a linkage piece clamped to my shaft 51.

Not sure what I should exactly ask? Thanks.
 
racerone said:
Ask about position of the hole for shift " bell crank " ---Or shift lever Item #51 on these blocks.
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Update, I have talked with the front office and they are looking into if one of the dressed engines will work as a replacement. Originally as I suspected they are using a cross reference for a "bolt in" application, not my situation where I would be swapping all of my externals to the replacement power head.

As far as the shift rod, I am attaching 4 pictures. 2 are of the engines available and the other 2 are best pictures I could get of my 'bell crank" with the engine still attached. The design is similar, but the case bosses are different. Looking for comments regarding the shifter. The actual shaft is a "D" configuration on all 3 engines, so I'm thinking I could come up with a solution since the rods are included. They are calling back today. Thank you.
 

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faztbullet said:
Should be fine as the only thing you need is the new style shift rod connector that connects to shift rod
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Searching the parts diagrams from our host, looks like from 86 on the shift lever assembly is like the donor engines above part number 0396832.

1985 and earlier engines the shift lever assembly is part number 395544. The end that clamps to the lever and connects to the down rod is part number 326644 and fits from 1980-98 a lot of models. As long as the down rod centers in the clamp, it would likely work as you suggest.

I did find a NOS bare case that is correct, but without knowing the condition of the rest of my power head, would be a bit of a gamble.
Thank you for the knowledge.
 
Update. Tore my engine down over the weekend. Its terminal. Top connecting rod was starting to seize, piston smeared, case is cracked. So, the NOS bare case is out.

I'm still working with South Central Outboards for one of their used engines. They are sure it is not a replacment for the 55. I have my engine torn down and notice two obvious differences. The bottom crankseal housing on my engine is extended, but the crank end with the splines is short. The second is the shift lever as I mentioned before. I did find an updated connector part number 0396831 that will work with the donor engine. The difference seems to be where my down rod is connected with a bolt. This one uses a pin and a circlip holds the rod in place once you have the pin inserted into the down rod. I was really hoping I caught my engine quick enough to use the bare case with new pistons. Oh well. I am attaching pictures of the bottom of the used engine and my bare case for clarification. Really could use some confirmation. They will take it back 20% restock plus shipping. Not ready to gamble yet. Thank you
 

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