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Battery charging

Make sure the battery is pre-charged to at least 12v and don't boost it if it's weak - the charging system is meant to only maintain the voltage.
 
Quicksilver said:
Make sure the battery is pre-charged to at least 12v and don't boost it if it's weak - the charging system is meant to only maintain the voltage.
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What does "maintain the voltage" mean?

What voltage value should it maintain?

If a battery will barely crank and start a motor (but does) should that battery be immediately removed so it can be pre-charged?
 
boscoe said:
What does "maintain the voltage" mean?

What voltage value should it maintain?

If a battery will barely crank and start a motor (but does) should that battery be immediately removed so it can be pre-charged?
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, get a full charge on it and if it discharges back to the barely starting level again, and let's assume it's a good battery since the people at the auto parts store charged it assuring you that the battery is healthy, then we are in the battery is not receiving enough charge zone. Check all the wires and connections, trace all the paths and confirm it's correctly wired according to the manufacturer specs. After that I would use a multimeter to check the voltage being supplied from the charging coils (remember this is AC from coils) to the rectifier (converts to DC) and the voltage delivery to the battery at idle/in gear (12.5 - 14 VDC typically - you want to see something in the 13+ volts to maintain charge on a "12 V battery" more like 12.5 with a full charge). Also, since it's an electric start make sure the solenoid is the correct size/type (magneto?) What's the input/output say for that in the specs? Remember wire placement can be critical..too close to the flywheel can induce fluctuations in sensitive components.

These are basic ignition systems not equipped with any components capable of maximizing charge on the battery, like a charge controller with capacitors communicating with integrated circuits collecting battery data...none of that ****. We've got a rudimentary system that can convert the alternating current generated by charge coils and a few magnets to direct current wired straight to the battery. If that battery also powers lights, a pump, some USB's with speakers connected playing Spotify then it's gonna lose charge. I would have a solar panel connected through a charge controller whose primary function is to maximize the batteries life through efficiency - that, in addition to the outboards more complimentary role as that of a "battery maintainer" - hi Mr. Battery, it's me stator and company, promise you will barely notice us. Hmmm do I kill stator and his fishy friends or maybe I should get 2 batteries - 1 to power the motor and 1 for everything else.
Mike
 
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