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sqrlnut

Member
Guys,
I know I saw this somewhere but u can't find it and I'm pressed for time.
The owner bought gauges for the boat:

the volt gauge hg110 has s, g, I, 12v on it AND the bulb with 2 wires? the old gauge just has s,g,I.
The Record hg129 has o,s,g,i and the old one has s,g,i
The tac is a Record 3-1/4 and the old one is 4-1/4 (looking for a bezel too?) New isspro R85100 has a plug with red, blk, white, green. Old one has sig, and, ign.
 
sqrlnut said:
Guys,
I know I saw this somewhere but u can't find it and I'm pressed for time.
The owner bought gauges for the boat:

the volt gauge hg110 has s, g, I, 12v on it AND the bulb with 2 wires? the old gauge just has s,g,I.
The Record hg129 has o,s,g,i and the old one has s,g,i
The tac is a Record 3-1/4 and the old one is 4-1/4 (looking for a bezel too?) New isspro R85100 has a plug with red, blk, white, green. Old one has sig, and, ign.
Click to expand...
Oh, the oil gauge hg 109 s,g,12v, and the bulb with 2 wires.
 
makomark said:
ok...what's the question(s)???
Click to expand...
whats the 12von the volt gauge for?
Whats the O on the HG 129 for?
i need to know if different letters mean the same thing on different gauges.
i think:
S- signal (but what does that mean?)
G- ground
I- ignition
O-? whats it for/ why?
12v- whats it for/ why?
 
Never dealt with that brand; the OEM should have installation details readily available.

that said, its common to use one mold for the housing so have 'extras' in very possible (on the voltmeter).

I - switched IGNITION (the +12VDC to make the gauge work)
S - SENDER for pressure and temperature gauges
G - GROUND (-12VDC to make the gauge work)

O - good guess on the small gauges

Some have dedicated pigtails for the lights - one side to the switched +12VDC, the other to GROUND...some take the easy way out and run the light to the I terminal...

From ISSPRO's www site:

RED – Connect to ignition switched power source.
BLACK – Connect to ground.
WHITE – Connect to negative ( “-” ) terminal of ignition coil.
GREEN – Connect to dash lamp power.

FWIW, the industry standard colors, at the ignition switch are: RED (+12VDC) from the BATTERY lead, PURPLE is the switched ignition lead, YELLOW/RED is the starter lead...on the old gauges, GREY should be the TACH lead, LIGHT BLUE should be the Oil Pressure Sender wire, and TAN should be the water temp sender lead.
 
usually a GRAY wire or two is on the "-" terminal of the tach....one of which should run up to the gauges at the instrument panel...
 
so i got all the gauges installed, the P side water temp and tac moves when i turn on power but neither one read. the S side tac bounces when the baot is running. I assume its a ground issue...

i also have an issue with my nav lights not working. does anyone have a Luhrs wiring diagram that will work for my 1990 3400?
 
so i installed all the gauges:
the P side Tac and water move slightly when turned on but will not produce a reading.
the S side all work but the Tac bounces a 200-300 rpm

i just found out my nav lights aren't getting power as well. does anyone have a Luhrs wiring diagram that will work for my 1990 3400 :)
 
Sounds like more troubleshooting is in order...on the port side anyhow...could be the sending wires are connected all the way thru the harnesses. you can do a quick check for a given gauge (not a tach) by removing the wire at the sending unit, urn the gauge on, and then grounding the sending wire...gauge should go to full scale when the sending wire hits ground....If you have access to a collection of resistors, use a set of jumpers to connect the sending wire to a 100 ohm resistor and ground the other side...the gauge should deflect to about mid-scale.

On the other side, with the tach bouncing, could be the tach or the wire may be intermittent....or it could be real if the engine's RPM really changes...an optical tach is one choice to establish truth.

On a boat specific wiring diagram, you could try Luhrs (luhrs.com) but I haven't spoken to anyone down there since they filed for bankruptcy...Its likely to be a breaker of fuse that supplies the nav light switch(es), depending upon how it is wired...you can always check the switches themselves for function with a test light that uses a bulb...
 
makomark said:
Sounds like more troubleshooting is in order...on the port side anyhow...could be the sending wires are connected all the way thru the harnesses. you can do a quick check for a given gauge (not a tach) by removing the wire at the sending unit, urn the gauge on, and then grounding the sending wire...gauge should go to full scale when the sending wire hits ground....If you have access to a collection of resistors, use a set of jumpers to connect the sending wire to a 100 ohm resistor and ground the other side...the gauge should deflect to about mid-scale.

On the other side, with the tach bouncing, could be the tach or the wire may be intermittent....or it could be real if the engine's RPM really changes...an optical tach is one choice to establish truth.

On a boat specific wiring diagram, you could try Luhrs (luhrs.com) but I haven't spoken to anyone down there since they filed for bankruptcy...Its likely to be a breaker of fuse that supplies the nav light switch(es), depending upon how it is wired...you can always check the switches themselves for function with a test light that uses a bulb...
Click to expand...
on the nav lights, its not the switch, the anchor light comes on (but only one of them do) and its no not getting power to the others
not that i learned what an optical tac is LOL, i might just have to get one, would a cheap one suffice for how much i would use it?
 
optical tachs can be used to check the regular tachs at any time...and they are real cheap if you don't object to the imported ones....

Typically, on small boats (especially older ones) there is only one anchor light, mounted up high....on the "not getting power to the others" is there power to the switch controlling them?
 
makomark said:
optical tachs can be used to check the regular tachs at any time...and they are real cheap if you don't object to the imported ones....

Typically, on small boats (especially older ones) there is only one anchor light, mounted up high....on the "not getting power to the others" is there power to the switch controlling them?
Click to expand...
there is power to the switch (they are on the same one) im thinking if there in series it could be the wire to the 1 anchor bulb not getting power. not sure they would wire it that way though
 
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