Drive shaft is out. Snapping that pinion nut free was also a bear. Could not move it with an impact. Had to build a jig to pin case to the floor, keep shaft straight and use a 36” breaker bar on the spline adapter.
Now I need to clean my shop so I can put it all back together in a clean-room...
Well … it’s out. Not without sacrifice.
Nothing would move this thing. Ended up deciding to accept repaint and so started hitting it hard with propane torch to get case nice and hot. Even then nothing would move. Started air hammering on the tabs assuming I’m sacrificing my bearing carrier at...
I'll try boiling water - but that probably won't be hot enough - feel like I got it into that range with electric heat gun. Maybe I need to torch it and repaint when I'm done.
Trying to figure out if there is some way to put a puller on those tabs to get an even pull on them, but a jaw-puller...
will try Aero Kroil. not in a mega rush - local honda shop is backed up and can't look at it for a few months - figured i could probably do it myself sooner....
my efforts with the heat gun were pretty weak - the case is such a huge heatsink that any heat dissipates very quickly. didn't want...
Trying to dig into my lower unit to replace drive shaft bearing. Gear shaft already removed and it’s in fwd gear per the removal procedure.
Procedure on 17-19 says to remove the two big bolts then pry the propshaft unit out with screwdriver using the two opposing slots.
I’ve broken the tip...
Trying to dig into my lower unit to replace drive shaft bearing. Gear shaft already removed and it’s in fwd gear per the removal procedure.
Procedure on 17-19 says to remove the two big bolts then pry the propshaft unit out with screwdriver using the two opposing slots.
I’ve broken the tip...
This is an awesome thread - thanks for all the details. I'm "staring down the barrel" of my driveshaft trying to understand the complexity of replacing the bearing in this thread and there is a lot of good learnings here. I've been most concerned about lack of tools for the measurement to see if...
I was, but I can see now that's not really possible. I was reading it as two standard roller bearings in opposing directions. Similar to lets say a trailer bearing. From what I see there is a tiny fracture forming on the roller case holder that I suspect is a manufacturing defect - seems like a...
I have the shop manual... but it's quite hard to interpret as it covers full disassembly of the lower unit and assumes a full rebuild; so quickly gets into the weeds of shimming and lash etc. I'm hoping someone here has some experience with doing that and can comment on it a more surgical...
Looking at the bearing part - I might be thinking of this wrong... I was assuming these were two bearings/race stacked on each other, but if the photo is right, it looks like a single assembly - so probably all needs to be pulled out in one, vs replace the top bearing.
Love to know if anyone has pulled this shaft. Doesn't look too bad, from the manual... looks like I need 64mm Lock Nut Tool 07916-MB00002 to get the locknut out/in and Shaft Holder 07SPB-ZW10200 to stop shaft rotating when undoing the pinion nut.
At a minimum I could pull the top (cracked)...
Anyone know how difficult it is to take the drive shaft out and replace that bearing and special tools needed?
I watched Captain Sean's video on doing the seals and he pull the propellor shaft and shift shaft but not the drive shaft. My Starboard has 1200 hrs and I should probably swap that...
Yeah - this motor only has 750 hrs. Replace lower unit oil every 100hrs with engine oil. The oil almost always comes out blue - like it went in. This was first time it came out dark.