You may be able to use just the new needle with the old seat. I have used a Qtip and brasso cleaner to polish the seat. Chinese kits have the wrong thread. Gaskets are suspect too.
Marine engine.com has excellent diagrams on their website. As your engine is shiftless it is only a matter of removing the lower unit bolts and removing the unit. Be careful not to break the bolts. Aerokroil penetrates very well. There are videos on the internet that can help. Really simple...
Got it figured out. Just added the “shim” to the kill switch. Goes between the button and switch stem.Now on to the carb,water pump and foot oil and sealing washers Thank you Racerone.
Absolutely worth the money. The compression tells the tale. Parts for these engines are not expensive at all. If I knew where it is and it was not too far I would buy it in a heartbeat.
I have the lanyard clip. It still would not fire. Are you saying the washer you made goes between switch and metal? I appreciate you taking time to respond to me.
I imagine that parts for those three years are going to be the same. Correct? I rescued this engine from the recycling center. I have a “bad habit” of doing that. I am also a barn find junkie. The previous owner said it ran about five years ago and quit firing. I gave him $200 brought it home...
I am just guessing. I have pulled and pulled on some of these engines. When I say several years I mean 20 years or more. As a “last resort “ I tried the air as a way to force feed/distribute the fuel-oil mixture. May work for some but not all? Just my experience.
I have had the same problem with engines that have been idle for years. Good spark,fuel, etc. I found that blowing very low pressure air into carb throat WHILE cranking will get them running. I suspect stuck/sticking reeds.