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2003 MPI 5.0 oil pressure sender

Anthonyexeter

Contributing Member
Ok folks, had a dodgy oil pressure gauge. I went out to the boat to see what his problem was. Turned it just a dodgy connection on the sender but there was another sender on the block forward of the oil pressure sender and so close that the gauge sender plug although loose couldn't come off and actually impossible to take off. What would this sender be? It's not the ECU oil pressure, that was behind the gauge sender on the tee.
 
low Oil pressure switch. Fuel pump typically will not pump if oil pressure is less than 5-7 psi and/or if there is a loss of oil pressure it will stop fuel pump.

My guess
 
low Oil pressure switch. Fuel pump typically will not pump if oil pressure is less than 5-7 psi and/or if there is a loss of oil pressure it will stop fuel pump.

My guess
I thought that one was aft of the gauge sender off the tee piece. This mystery one is forward of the gauge sender and directly into the block.
 
What are the wire colors? The manuals I have do not have clean schematics showing what you describe or any images/descriptions of the components mounted on intake manifold.
 
What are the wire colors? The manuals I have do not have clean schematics showing what you describe or any images/descriptions of the components mounted on intake manifold.
Can't tell the colour. It's got an old black dirty sheath over the actual cable. It's a single wire bolted to the top. It's not in the manifold, it's in the block next to where the 2 oil pressure senders are. The pressure sender with a single wire and the "I presume" oil switch which has a 3 pin plug.
 
Can't tell the colour. It's got an old black dirty sheath over the actual cable. It's a single wire bolted to the top. It's not in the manifold, it's in the block next to where the 2 oil pressure senders are. The pressure sender with a single wire and the "I presume" oil switch which has a 3 pin plug.
Sounds like a knock sensor
 
knock sensor has a single blue wire and a unique connector, the knock sensor is typically screwed into a Y fitting at the block water drain,
No, it's not on the drain plug but it does appear to be screwed directly into the block, it's tight against the oil pressure sender, so tight in fact you can't remove the single wire plug that slides onto the sender. he's my photo realist rendering, I'll take a pic next time I'm passing the boat.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/NnqK5r5cQ2oEuf9VA
 
i think it very well might. As for the oil pressure switch, if that was disconnected should that trigger an immediate alarm if the engine is running.
No, there is a crystal inside that generates a specific frequency with engine running. If frequency changes due to a knock the signal is received by the ECM which changes timing to eliminate knock

The connector is removed by squeezing the top together on it self and pulled off
 
No, there is a crystal inside that generates a specific frequency with engine running. If frequency changes due to a knock the signal is received by the ECM which changes timing to eliminate knock

The connector is removed by squeezing the top together on it self and pulled off
Ah, no. I meant the oil pressure switch, the 3 pin one next to the oil pressure sender for the gauge. If that's disconnected should that trigger an alarm or is it normally open and would have to be shorted to trigger it?
 
Ah, no. I meant the oil pressure switch, the 3 pin one next to the oil pressure sender for the gauge. If that's disconnected should that trigger an alarm or is it normally open and would have to be shorted to trigger it?
Yes, the 3 wire sender should be a code with it disconnected, but it doesn't go to the gauge it goes to the ECM. The gauge sender has a single Dark Blue wire on it
 
Yes, the 3 wire sender should be a code with it disconnected, but it doesn't go to the gauge it goes to the ECM. The gauge sender has a single Dark Blue wire on it
yeah, it was the gauge wire that lead me down this path. Owner had a fluctuating gauge, turns out the plug had come loose and the only thing keeping it on was the fact it was trapped by the knock sensor. Was unable to remove it as it's totally trapped by it, anyway, once fully seated gauge is fine. I did unplug the 3 pin switch to see if it would trigger the alarm and stop the fuel pump but nothing happened, is there some built in delay on the ECU?
 
It "should" set a code which will show up on a scanner. The sensors go from low to high and a disconnected sensor the voltage will lets say float. The 3 wires on the sensor are Gray 5V, Blue/Black Sense, Black/Pink Ground. So low pressure will be around 0.8V or so, and a float voltage would be anywhere around 3.5 to 4 something. No alarm because voltage is to high, just a code
 
It "should" set a code which will show up on a scanner. The sensors go from low to high and a disconnected sensor the voltage will lets say float. The 3 wires on the sensor are Gray 5V, Blue/Black Sense, Black/Pink Ground. So low pressure will be around 0.8V or so, and a float voltage would be anywhere around 3.5 to 4 something. No alarm because voltage is to high, just a code
ah ok, so if I probe the sense wire i should see that state change from ignition on/engine off to engine on?
 
Should but I've not done that, probably see something like 0V to 0.5V. I have watched the voltage change from key ON to Run
I'll give it a probe next time i'm out. Owner is just a little paranoid after we found the warning buzzer had been removed by a previous owner and then the fluctuating gauge on his weekend away. We get the test alarm when switching the ignition on and the gauge is fine now but would be nice to let him know the ECU sender is ok too.
 
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