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Bravo 3 stern drive 5.7 engine. Boat leaking through the arm that connects to the gimbal ring that passes through the transom.

J

johnfranciskeating

New member
Bravo 3 stern drive 5.7 engine. Boat leaking through the arm that connects to the gimbal ring that passes through the transom. Very grateful for any advice. Someone had mentioned the JR fix in another forum. Just was not 100% how replacing the gimbal ring would fix a leak.
 
The following 2 links will be of a seal and type of tools used to repair a leaking upper gimbal housing seal (part number old #26-41607 1 / New # 8M2005029) letting in the described water leak.

Items 4, maybe 5 & 6, https://www.marineengine.com/parts/...o-three/0b664190-thru-0f729999/gimbal-housing


Also to get the general idea of the seal, read pages 363 - 367 then all of section Page 4B- as it's a big labor job to fix this water leak.... And yes, JR marine can be a 3rd way to go about this job...One way is pulling engine to get access without cutting, Merc has a drilling out type kit and shown in the manual or how to do it, or JR's way of cutting in the back top plate area... Some future prospect boat buyers don't like or understand a cut out version while others love it to help lower costs on the next repair should it ever come about so bear the method used in mind when making the decision to repair.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1348074/Mercury-Bravo.html?page=363#manual - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1348074/Mercury-Bravo.html?page=367#manual


Need your transom or stern drive serial number to locate your parts catalog, https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercruiser-sterndrive-parts/bravo-three
 
Fun Times said:
The following 2 links will be of a seal and type of tools used to repair a leaking upper gimbal housing seal (part number old #26-41607 1 / New # 8M2005029) letting in the described water leak.

Items 4, maybe 5 & 6, https://www.marineengine.com/parts/...o-three/0b664190-thru-0f729999/gimbal-housing


Also to get the general idea of the seal, read pages 363 - 367 then all of section Page 4B- as it's a big labor job to fix this water leak.... And yes, JR marine can be a 3rd way to go about this job...One way is pulling engine to get access without cutting, Merc has a drilling out type kit and shown in the manual or how to do it, or JR's way of cutting in the back top plate area... Some future prospect boat buyers don't like or understand a cut out version while others love it to help lower costs on the next repair should it ever come about so bear the method used in mind when making the decision to repair.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1348074/Mercury-Bravo.html?page=363#manual - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1348074/Mercury-Bravo.html?page=367#manual


Need your transom or stern drive serial number to locate your parts catalog, https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercruiser-sterndrive-parts/bravo-three
Click to expand...
Fun Times, thank you so much!!!!! I’m going to dig into this on a big screen. The former owner on the port engine did something similar. So grateful for the wealth of information. I’ll reply back to our thread

John
 
johnfranciskeating said:
Bravo 3 stern drive 5.7 engine. Boat leaking through the arm that connects to the gimbal ring that passes through the transom. Very grateful for any advice. Someone had mentioned the JR fix in another forum. Just was not 100% how replacing the gimbal ring would fix a leak.
Click to expand...
JR makes a kit (merc does as well) so you can pull the pin and gimbal ring to replace the seal without pulling the engine. If you engine is a bitch to pull this makes sense to save some time. JR also can repair gimbal rings and bell housings that get worn

 
Dieter said:
JR makes a kit (merc does as well) so you can pull the pin and gimbal ring to replace the seal without pulling the engine. If you engine is a bitch to pull this makes sense to save some time. JR also can repair gimbal rings and bell housings that get worn

Click to expand...
Wow
I would think it would take about the same amount of time to pull engine...

I have done a few of the side holes in upper and tap and plug, to get steeeing arm nut loose....I am not crazy of the looks afterwords..... makes it look awful.

The engine pull is the cleanest way in my opinion.
 
kghost said:
Wow
I would think it would take about the same amount of time to pull engine...

I have done a few of the side holes in upper and tap and plug, to get steeeing arm nut loose....I am not crazy of the looks afterwords..... makes it look awful.

The engine pull is the cleanest way in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Agreed but depends on the boat. My buddies 28 ft bayliner saved him a lot of work to not pull the engine. In my 21 ft bow rider its way easier to pull the engine. If you read his first post he mentioned JR marine and wasn't sure what it was about, just providing options.
 
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