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1990 4.3 mercruiser - power steering leak at cooler.

kirkll

Regular Contributor
I’ve been loosing power steering fluid and couldn't figure out where it was going until today. I took the boat for a test drive and only ran it for 15-20 minutes to just check all my systems out. Just idling and not moving the steering wheel I saw no leaks at all, and my bilge was pretty clean. but after testing it on the water with a few hard over maneuvers, the pump was bone dry and the fluid was all in my bilge.

So when I got it back to the shop, I used the bright red ATF fluid and filled the power steering pump back up, put it on the muffs and fired it up again. After turn8ng the wheel back and forth a few times I noticed the red ATF fluid dripping out of the cooler unit. And I had water leaking too.

I have a sneaking feeling I’m going to have to replace the cooler unit. I’m going to pull it out and pressure test it first, but could someone help me with a part number? So I can locate a replacement part, I’d sure appreciate it.

This isn’t the stock engine, so serial numbers are not available. But I’m quite certain the stock 1990 mercuser power steering cooler was used when they swapped the motor out.

Thanks, Kirk
 
If your cooler is like the one kghost posted on ebay, it's most likely just the hose, and if so can cut the end off and reclamp
 
Thank you guys... It is the same cooler, AND it was the hose. It was leaking where it connected to the cooler. I also had a loose hose clamp on the water line too that didn't get tightened enough after winterization.

i'm thinking of using a different technique for the winterization next season and pouring some antifreeze into the hose that goes down to this cooler rather than trying to drain it completely. Is this technique feasible? We rarely get seriously cold weather here that stays below freezing for long periods of time. but the boat is exposed to weather somewhat in my boat shed.

 
You can do that If your removing the drive, getting up to temp to flush the engine and then remove the manifold and block drains, With the drive off you can use a shop vac on blow or just blow air into the hose to force the water out the stern
 
It's feasible but not recommended. Folks in south Texas woke up one day with temps way below what they have ever seen before.

Need full strength RV antifreeze to protect or no water at all. If you pour real antifreeze into the hose it will mix with the water and have better protection, but then your into the environmental thing in the spring
 
Have you felt around on the cooler? I have one just like it on the shelf with a 1/4 plug on the bottom of one end.

If you have room you could put in one of these p/n 861505

861505 Tee.jpeg
 
Actually.... That's a great idea for draining that section of line where the cooler is located.
Here is How I do winterization. Use it or dont, Disagree or dont, I dont care.
Going on 35 years with ZERO failures
This is a manual labor method with NO short cuts.

Winterization for a Mercruiser V8 or V6.​



Note 1: My method below describes how I winterize a marine engine. I personally do not change the engine oil/filter or outdrive gear oil in the fall. Have not for 30+ years.

Note 2 : The outdrive when it sits all winter in the cold, seals can go bad regardless if pressure checked in the fall or the gear oil is water free. If the drive is not serviced properly in the spring the gear oil could possibly leak causing extensive damage.

Proper outdrive Spring Service includes Drain and pressure check and check gimbal bearing and grease any fittings needing grease and new O-rings as supplied in gasket kit and grease the splined drive shaft and the two o-rings on shaft.


My winterization procedure: Done on trailer.

RAW WATER cooled only (not closed/fresh water cooling systems)​

Add appropriate amount of Stabil to gas tank.

With Drive Down and allowed to sit for at least 2 hours so if any water present will flow to bottom of outdrive.

Remove lower unit oil fill plug and check for water contamination. If oil looks good reinstall plug. If oil is milky or water comes out, outdrive must be serviced/repaired by (pressure checking) to find bad seal before winter storage.

Hook up water hose to ear muffs and attach to outdrive and make sure outdrive is lowered almost all the way down.

Turn on water at hose.

Start engine and let run for ~30 minutes at ~ 1000 rpms. (this allows Stable added to gas tank to reach Carb)

Turn engine off.

Turn water off and remove ear muffs. (leave outdrive down for now)

Remove engine block water plugs, they are on the right side and left sides of engine near center of block and very close to oil pan, Typically Bronze material.(Could be two piece, Single plug, or Plastic winged screw type)

Once the plug(s) have been removed, Poke thru with small screw driver to loosen up all cast and rust so the water flows out in a steady stream.

Remove the plugs in the exhaust manifolds, they are under the manifold ¾ of the way back towards the back of engine, poke it clear so the water comes out in a steady stream. If Plastic winged type remove them and make sure water flows good.

Remove the two water hoses in the front of the engine where it attaches to the top of thermostat housing that go to Elbows. If No hoses go to elbows, Remove the two hoses at thermostat housing that go to bottom of Exhaust Manifolds

Remove the incoming water hose (the one coming in on the right hand side (oil filter side) that comes from the transom and goes thru the power steering cooler.

Remove the LARGE hose that is U shaped from the engine water pump to the thermostat housing (remove from the thermostat housing side only and after engine block has drained from the two block drain plugs removed earlier, twist the hose down towards the bilge to drain any remaining water out of hose).

When the water has drained out of the block and the manifolds reinstall the plugs. DO NOT over tighten them just good and snug.

Have 1 gallon of RV antifreeze ready, pour ¼ of it into the two hoses that go to elbows or exhaust manifolds and it will go directly into the exhaust elbows/manifold.

Pour ¼ of the RV antifreeze into the incoming water hose (SLOWLY) and make sure you hear/see it come out the outdrive intake ports!!!
This back flushes the incoming water thru the power steering cooler and the transom assembly thru outdrive (you may have to raise the hose up several inches to allow the antifreeze to flow).

Pour the rest of the RV antifreeze into the LARGE hose that was removed from the thermostat housing, this goes straight into the engine.

Reinstall all the hoses and tighten the clamps.

Raise the outdrive to trailer position.

Unhook battery and you are done!!



Note 3: When outdrive is in the down position it is self draining.



This applies to most V8 amd V6 cylinder Mercruiser Carbed engines RAW WATER cooled only (not closed cooling systems)
 
Here is How I do winterization. Use it or dont, Disagree or dont, I dont care.
Going on 35 years with ZERO failures
This is a manual labor method with NO short cuts.

Winterization for a Mercruiser V8 or V6.​



Note 1: My method below describes how I winterize a marine engine. I personally do not change the engine oil/filter or outdrive gear oil in the fall. Have not for 30+ years.

Note 2 : The outdrive when it sits all winter in the cold, seals can go bad regardless if pressure checked in the fall or the gear oil is water free. If the drive is not serviced properly in the spring the gear oil could possibly leak causing extensive damage.

Proper outdrive Spring Service includes Drain and pressure check and check gimbal bearing and grease any fittings needing grease and new O-rings as supplied in gasket kit and grease the splined drive shaft and the two o-rings on shaft.


My winterization procedure: Done on trailer.

RAW WATER cooled only (not closed/fresh water cooling systems)​

Add appropriate amount of Stabil to gas tank.

With Drive Down and allowed to sit for at least 2 hours so if any water present will flow to bottom of outdrive.

Remove lower unit oil fill plug and check for water contamination. If oil looks good reinstall plug. If oil is milky or water comes out, outdrive must be serviced/repaired by (pressure checking) to find bad seal before winter storage.

Hook up water hose to ear muffs and attach to outdrive and make sure outdrive is lowered almost all the way down.

Turn on water at hose.

Start engine and let run for ~30 minutes at ~ 1000 rpms. (this allows Stable added to gas tank to reach Carb)

Turn engine off.

Turn water off and remove ear muffs. (leave outdrive down for now)

Remove engine block water plugs, they are on the right side and left sides of engine near center of block and very close to oil pan, Typically Bronze material.(Could be two piece, Single plug, or Plastic winged screw type)

Once the plug(s) have been removed, Poke thru with small screw driver to loosen up all cast and rust so the water flows out in a steady stream.

Remove the plugs in the exhaust manifolds, they are under the manifold ¾ of the way back towards the back of engine, poke it clear so the water comes out in a steady stream. If Plastic winged type remove them and make sure water flows good.

Remove the two water hoses in the front of the engine where it attaches to the top of thermostat housing that go to Elbows. If No hoses go to elbows, Remove the two hoses at thermostat housing that go to bottom of Exhaust Manifolds

Remove the incoming water hose (the one coming in on the right hand side (oil filter side) that comes from the transom and goes thru the power steering cooler.

Remove the LARGE hose that is U shaped from the engine water pump to the thermostat housing (remove from the thermostat housing side only and after engine block has drained from the two block drain plugs removed earlier, twist the hose down towards the bilge to drain any remaining water out of hose).

When the water has drained out of the block and the manifolds reinstall the plugs. DO NOT over tighten them just good and snug.

Have 1 gallon of RV antifreeze ready, pour ¼ of it into the two hoses that go to elbows or exhaust manifolds and it will go directly into the exhaust elbows/manifold.

Pour ¼ of the RV antifreeze into the incoming water hose (SLOWLY) and make sure you hear/see it come out the outdrive intake ports!!!
This back flushes the incoming water thru the power steering cooler and the transom assembly thru outdrive (you may have to raise the hose up several inches to allow the antifreeze to flow).

Pour the rest of the RV antifreeze into the LARGE hose that was removed from the thermostat housing, this goes straight into the engine.

Reinstall all the hoses and tighten the clamps.

Raise the outdrive to trailer position.

Unhook battery and you are done!!



Note 3: When outdrive is in the down position it is self draining.



This applies to most V8 amd V6 cylinder Mercruiser Carbed engines RAW WATER cooled only (not closed cooling systems)
i do it the same way (in upstate NY), use a gallon of AF to push back from thermostat hsg and out the OD. use the rest to chase any small pockets of water. Doing it this way for decades with zero freeze damage.

my 2004 boat has a drain plug in the middle of the big U shaped hose between circ pump and thermostat housing makes it easy to drain. I use a cut off old radiator hose to fill af at the thermo housing so I only remove the hose coming up from the PS cooler.
 
i do it the same way (in upstate NY), use a gallon of AF to push back from thermostat hsg and out the OD. use the rest to chase any small pockets of water. Doing it this way for decades with zero freeze damage.

my 2004 boat has a drain plug in the middle of the big U shaped hose between circ pump and thermostat housing makes it easy to drain. I use a cut off old radiator hose to fill af at the thermo housing so I only remove the hose coming up from the PS cooler.
Geeez...............2004 boat??? I thought most of us who help others here had older boats..................LOL...............

I am still running my 1987.............

DSCN1793.JPG
DSCN1795.JPG
 
I have done mine 24 years the same as Jack above describes. If in a really cold climate might want to use -100 antifreeze because the -50 and -60 starts to get hard at 5* to 0*F. Put a gallon of it in the freezer and watch what happens.
 
Geeez...............2004 boat??? I thought most of us who help others here had older boats..................LOL...............

I am still running my 1987.............

View attachment 37631View attachment 37632
about ten years ago I got rid of our 1991 Sea Ray 170, was too small as the kids (and their friends) got bigger. Had that boat for 20 years, was a good time to get out as the interior was starting to need redone. Was a great inexpensive boat to own- but was not worth it (new upholstery) on a too small /3.0 boat.

A friend of a friend bought the boat I had now (2004 sea ray 200 sport) at a used car dealer, ran it for 3 weeks then found the block had been cracked. Boat only had 37 hrs on it, so a repower was a no brainer. Also was good to take out the 190 hp 4.3 and go back in with a 260 hp 5.0. 20.5 ft is a great size for our family and use on Cayuga Lake. By the time I sold the old boat and did the repower was in the new boat for about $7300. Glad I did it before prices went up.
 
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