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1996 EVENRUDE 20HP HELP NEEDED

When you get the rebuild kit, there are probably 3 different gaskets m (part #11).
Compare to the one already on the carb…but also look closely at how the gasket covers, or doesn’t cover, each of the passages. It’s possible that some monkey attempted a previous rebuild, & used the wrong one.
 
can someone give me the proper spark plug gap for this engine i did the carb kit and there was alot of grit in it so i hope that was the issue.
 
Edchris177 said:
Did you select a 9.9 motor by mistake? That’s what my 1996 9.9 calls for.
I see a ‘96 20hp lists QL77JC4 , along with several optional plugs
Part #27
Click to expand...
Nope. I went to the MarineEngine.com and the E20CREUM Parts Diagram Page has a link to QL82C "Spark Plug - OEM".

The MarineEngine.com Champion Spark Plug Page does not show QL77JC4 for any year of 20HP.

1787676432950.png
 
“The MarineEngine.com Champion Spark Plug Page does not show QL77JC4 for any year of 20HP.”
Interesting. I see where that came from.
His motor is ‘96. I selected E20CREDA 20 hp (1996), & got this page, which shows QL82C if you select Spark Plug, under COMMON REPLACEMENT PARTS.
If you select, Cylinder & Crankcase, it doesn’t show that plug, but returns QL77JC4, plus 3 others listed as “Optional”.
Part #27
 
Edchris177 said:
“The MarineEngine.com Champion Spark Plug Page does not show QL77JC4 for any year of 20HP.”
Interesting. I see where that came from.
His motor is ‘96. I selected E20CREDA 20 hp (1996), & got this page, which shows QL82C if you select Spark Plug, under COMMON REPLACEMENT PARTS.
If you select, Cylinder & Crankcase, it doesn’t show that plug, but returns QL77JC4, plus 3 others listed as “Optional”.
Part #27
Click to expand...
This is the first time I've seen MarineEngine.com have conflicting information. On the spark plug page and the "Common Replacement Parts" list, both links show QL82C. But you are correct, when looking under Cylinder & Crankcase it sure does show QL77JC4. I'll contact the admins and let them know about the discrepancy.

Also, the OP says he has a 1996, but in his very first post he listed E20CREUM as the model number. That's where I got the 1997 info.
1787679998594.png
 
pulling up the ‘97 page,it also shows the same 4 plugs as above, if you use the Crankcase/Cylinder page.
Maybe Champion changed their recommendations, I see the plug page you used only goes up to 1993.
There isn’t much difference between the two plugs, QL is the same CDI resistor & thread size, ones a little hotter heat range, the “4” at the end is “Federal & California wide gap”.
For what it’s worth, I picked up 5 boxes of 4, NOS several years ago of QL77JC4, for $1/plug, & have run them at wide open settings for many hours in a ‘96 8hp & a couple of 9.9s & 15s…showing normal plug Color’s.
The little 8hp has the same set for 5 years now, & 176 hrs on the Hobbes meter.
 
The issue also occurs with regards to my 1994 8hp.
Sparkplug page shows QL86C, but Common replacement Parts & Cylinder Crankcase show QL77JC4
 
Ok i re,did the carb and started it it ideled not to bad then it started to die i played with the idel, but i also turned the knob on the end of the throttle what is that for is that also for the idel, becauser now the motor is kicking and dies fast?
 
That knob is for setting a specific desired idle speed. It is not to adjust your basic idle.
think you would best be helped by purchasing an OEM service manual and going through the Link & sync procedure.
There is a specific order of steps to take in order to get a decent idle.
 
what is the difference between desired idle speed and basic, if i turned the knob on the throttle to much will that make it stall and run rough?
 
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So iv been reading and A.I said this- For your 1996 20 hp 2-stroke EvinrudeOn this 20 hp engine, the mechanical idle speed is not adjusted by a screw pushing on the carburetor butterfly. Instead, it is controlled by a stop screw on the ignition timing linkage. [1] side of the engine block, near the throttle linkages and the steering bracket.Locate the threaded idle stop screw (it usually has a nylon/plastic tip or a small locknut) that acts as a physical wall, limiting how far back the throttle arm can rest. To lower the idle RPM: Loosen the locknut and turn this stop screw counterclockwise (out). This allows the ignition timing to retard slightly further, naturally dropping the engine speed. Adjust it until your forward-gear idle sits comfortably around 650 to 700 RPM.

is this correct
 
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