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1959 18 HP Johnson stuck float after rebuild?

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skinman49

New member
First post in this forum. Thank you ahead of time to the helpful and knowledgeable folks helping others. Also thanks to the administrators for your work.

My old 1959 Johnson 18 HP has been very reliable for 35 years for my small fishing boat. It has sat for a dozen years but started right up for me, however ran a bit rough. I could not adjust to run well so I tackled a few things. New carb kit, plugs and an in-line fuel filter. Also cleaned the gas tank thoroughly as well as all fuel lines. I meticulously cleaned every part of the carb when apart.

With that said, I took to the lake for a trial run. It started right up but when I tried to run at high speed it was cutting out. The high speed adjustment would not correct the problem. When I did the carb rebuild I started with: Hi Speed backed out 1 turn, Low speed 1 1/2 turns. It idles and trolls fine. I did not bring the proper tools to the lake to macro adjust the high speed needle valve so I brought it home. Ironically there were no leaks or other problems until today when I hooked up the gas line and pressurized it. Fuel is coming out of the throttle body intake throat (where the choke flap is) now. I am assuming I have a stuck float in the carb. Before I tear into it again I wanted input on what else might be going on here. I may just put the old float back in as it worked fine. No leaks from fuel lines or anywhere else, just coming out the carb intake. Input welcome. Thanks
Spokane, WA
 
Go back to the other forum. We left you a few answers about the wire retainer you mentioned that will explain the gas leak. Your float needle is stuck in it's seat but fuel system is still under pressure. That gas is going to come out somewhere. But you still need to get that high speed needle adjusted right.
 
ronward said:
Go back to the other forum. We left you a few answers about the wire retainer you mentioned that will explain the gas leak. Your float needle is stuck in it's seat but fuel system is still under pressure. That gas is going to come out somewhere. But you still need to get that high speed needle adjusted right.
Click to expand...

I'm a newbie you can probably tell. What other forum and how do I get there? Quit laughing ok? :)
Thanks
 
(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
*******************

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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