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1998 Tracker Deep V electrical

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BTruaxjr

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98 w/75 hp... turn key and have nothing, no dash, no start. Trim at motor works but not at throttle/shift or front. Fish finders, bilge pump, aireator pump, and lights work. Everything worked 2 weeks ago, now its dead.
 
Have you checked for 12VDC at the ignition switch...with a test light?

knowing which engine you have only helps us...and a serial number helps to narrow down any variables involved.
 
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The RED wire should be HOT all of the time.

The PURPLE wire should be HOT with the key to RUN or START. It only powers 'accessory functions' on outboards..ignition on inboards and I/Os..

Test lights (with old style incandescent bulbs) are best for testing on older marine electric circuits...you need a decent amount of current to readily reveal corroded or bad connections..
 
That switch only disables the starter motor when not in neutral...nothing to do with the dash...

wouldn't hurt to make sure your battery connections are clean and tight...wingnuts, though popular, aren't the best...
 
Battery test good, I cleaned battery terminals and replaced wingnuts with reg. If I jump solenoid motor turns over as it should, solenoid test good...
 
sounds like progress.

I think I would separate the connector on the motor, where the cable comes in from the dash...that's the connection beter the motor and the ignition switch...check the pins and sockets for corrosion and a decent connection. You can apply some NYOGEL if you have it...made just for that type of connection.
 
I unplugged connection at motor, didn't see any corrosion or broken pins... cleaned with CRC Electric cleaner and put some CRC Dialectric Grease on pins. Still nothing...
 
OK, I ran a jumper wire from positive side of battery to switch... dash lit up and motor turned over on start. I'm thinking its someplace between fuse at motor and switch???
 
FWIW, i dug thru the Force wiring data I have and the closest thing I found was digram for a 60hp version...it shows a 20 amp fuse, on the engine, between the battery and the ignition switch...so, I'd say Racer was correct last week..
 
Its not the fuse, I changed it again but it don't look blown and I have power both sides. I have 12.7 volts at fuse and 10.2 volts at switch... test light is bright at fuse and barely comes on at switch.
 
I would try to spread open the pin on the connector before running a wire... the battery voltage is usually on the Center pin in the connector...

If that doesn't work, I wouldn't mess with the harness connector...just run another wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid's battery post (one of the big ones)...the best way would be to replace the bad half of the harness - assuming the other half isn't damaged...
 
I think I've got it, pretty sure it was that center pin... I tried to pry it open and close the female side. I cinched it together with a zip tie and its working as it should. Thanks again for your help.
 
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