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2004 40hp 2cylinder- 2stroke won't start

Capt. Rich

New member
This is a new one for me. Motor starts instantly when cold. Run the motor up to temp for awhile and shut it off. Now it won't turn over and no tilt. The tach has started acting up, bouncing all over the place. Could this be the rectifier-regulator taking a crap? I replaced it a short time ago but that does not mean it hasn't gone bad. Thoughts
 
So it won't even try to start after shutting down, just click-nothing? Yes, could be a faulty component, did you use aftermarket rectifier/regulator? Rectifier circuits typically use capacitors to smooth out the jagged signal produced from the converter diodes, and there are bleeder resistors to discharge the capacitors when the motor is turned off. So if the resistors shorted you would see a much more chaotic signal while running and probably no restart due to the inherent safety feature of the rectifier now inoperable. If it restarts after cooling down then it might be improper placement of the rectifier and/or wiring to close to the flywheel, heat could induce signal performance issues of an already compromised or poorly designed rectifier.
Mike
 
probably no restart due to the inherent safety feature of the rectifier now inoperable.
No such thing as above......If rectifier is acting up or failed again most likely from bad connections at battery or selector switch if equipped. A bad rectifier can cause overcharging and damage the fuse holder which will result in no power to keyswitch
 
Well I agree with fazt that the damage to the fuse and overcharging can result from a faulty rectifier. And for reality's sake, let's clarify WHY this would happen..
A faulty rectifier would result from the internal circuit components failing. Rectifiers convert the AC signal produced by charge coils to DC via a specific configuration of diodes which are basically NOT functions in a circuit, meaning they only allow current to pass in one direction filtering out the smooth sinusoidal property of the AC signal into a jagged/peaky DC signal. This must be smoothed by the capacitors prior to output to properly maintain the battery, if not, those high peaks will damage or overcharge the battery. Capacitors store charge and therefore are capable of discharging at rest, this risk of shock necessitates resistors to be connected to safely discharge the capacitors, happens in less than a second after turning the motor off. All this of course is not important for troubleshooting because a faulty rectifier must be replaced and people don't care about the inner workings of rectifiers circuitry because it works or it doesn't. The simple explanation is a damaged fuse or overcharging, and fix is check connections and/or replace the rectifier. I prefer to understand the why, and this sometimes requires actually understanding what is happening inside these small electronic components, because I guarantee you it's not just smoke and mirrors, in reality there are such things as diodes, capacitors, and resistors inside a rectifier (Google it).
 
Thanks guys for the help. Is the rectifier a sealed unit in epoxy? I know in the auto world problems occur in a digiplex or dynoplex because when the unit heats up it swells, and cracks in the epoxy causes breaks in the internal circuits. I guess it doesn't directly matter with this problem. I will replace the rectifier and see if this is the issue. The 2 fuses at the engine did not blow. Thanks again, Rich
 
On my motor the CDI is sealed in epoxy. Rectifiers are smaller typically square, but I've seen round ones and may have a heat sink.
Sorry fazt, I just realized you were quoting the restart scenario for a faulty rectifier when you posted 'no such thing..' and not my entire post. Thanks for your clarification because I wasn't quite sure about the restart to be honest.
Mike
 
An outboard rectifier is a simple 4 diode bridge half wave setup...no smoothing capacitors as we are just recharging battery. Rectifier/regulator combos are a lil cleaner with lot more circuitry
 
replaced my OEM rectifer/regulator with an aftermarket version. I was surprised the aftermarket says it's better than original and the wire used actually dropped down a gauge (thicker). Problem is it did not help, I am going to trace the ground from the battery and see if there is an issue there. I start the engine by jumping the solenoid right to the starter. It pops right over and the charge is 13.6-sometimes 14.1
 
Hey racerone, does the neutral switch kill the tilt motor as well. I traced the smaller red hot lead from the solenoid to what appears to be 1 of 2 relays. It is a 5 spade push connector. Coming off this is the green and green white tilt motor wires along with 3 others. On top it reads tyca FA35F11-ZO7. If this is a relay could this be the problem?
 
Hey guys now I will write a novel. I just replaced the 2 relays. The motor, electric choke, and tilt are still dead. I jump the motor- positive lead on the solenoid hot wired to the positive lead on the starter. Pops over instantly. Once its up and running the tilt works and I have 14.1 charge at 2000 rpm. The tach is still spasmatic at times. In the last year and a half I have replaced the entire engine harness,stator,trigger,rev. limiter,regulator/rectifier,starter solenoid, top cylinder CDM,and spark plugs. All OEM components. It was a fair buck but much less than the $6500.00 for a new 40 hp. I turn the engine off and I am right back at no start, no tilt and no electric choke. I know it is a gremlin hiding somewhere in the system but I am at wits end. Has anyone experienced this crap
 
I forgot to mention I replaced the ignition switch at the same time as the other components listed. However, I had a new primer bulb start acting up after about 6 months of use. The motor would start to stumble and then stall and would not get up to speed. I replaced the bulb and all was good. Just because this is a relatively new switch does not mean it is working properly, I will take racerone's advice and check the switch.
 
I ask this because the tach gets wired through the voltage regulator and if you replaced this already and the tach is still acting up then perhaps the regulator/rectifier is causing the tach to misbehave. Pretty sure the trim gets wired through the same regulator..
 
I replaced the solenoid with OEM and checked all the fuses. Still nothing. Now I noticed it does not appear to be charging. It would go to 13.6-14.1 at speed. Now it reads 11.5-12.3 at speed. I am hauling the boat today and have a friend and good mechanic who will look at her Saturday. Electrical gremlins are the worst.
 
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