Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Lehman 2712E Water Connections

C

Cristoff

New member
Can anybody please help, I have a Watermota Sea Scout which is based on the above engine and I want to connect a calorifier but cannot find out which of the plugs on the engine I should remove
 
Hi Charlie, I haven't yet purchased a calorifier bu am planning on a simple single coil unit so I just need an in out arrangement.
 
Hi cristoff,
remove the block drain plug on the exhaust manifold side of the engine , install a tee to reuse the drain and hookup to the in side of heater. The other connection is in the hose at the circulating pump on the front of the engine. Best bet is use a wter heater conn. Kit supplied by american diesel corp. 804 435 3107
charlie
 
My engine is a 2722e. Am I right in assuming the above applies also to this engine ?
My pump has 2 connections. One returning from the manifold and the other is a rubber blank cap, 1 1/2 connection. Should I remove the cap and fit return from calorifier to this, or, replace the already fitted return pipe from the manifold with a similar one but with a 1/2 inch connection for the calorifier return pipe ?
On another issue. My engine throws out a slight film/ spit of diesel/oil onto the river from the exhust pipe when the engine is idleing.
Compression is good, injectores checked and no oil leak in gearbox oil cooler. No smoke from exhaust when engine is idleing or under load.
I,m now thinking this might have something to do with changing spec of diesel since this engine was built.
The diesel used is central heating grade. I Live in Ireland.
Thank you for any help.
 
Hi setanta, your engine is different. Remove the coolant drain petcock on port side of engine and install a tee. Connect feed hose (to heater) to one side of tee and install removed petcock to other leg of tee. Heater return hose connects to portside of exhaust manifold forward where there should be a plug now. As to fuel on water you will see some particularly when the engine is cold. You might check injection pump timing but diesel is better (cleaner ) than heating oil. Coolant temp. Should be at least 185 f.charlie w.
 
CHARLIE W said:
Hi setanta, your engine is different. Remove the coolant drain petcock on port side of engine and install a tee. Connect feed hose (to heater) to one side of tee and install removed petcock to other leg of tee. Heater return hose connects to portside of exhaust manifold forward where there should be a plug now. As to fuel on water you will see some particularly when the engine is cold. You might check injection pump timing but diesel is better (cleaner ) than heating oil. Coolant temp. Should be at least 185 f.charlie w.
Click to expand...

Thank you Charlie for the prompt reply. Should the safety valve pressure be a domestic 3bar one with a seperate potable water pressure vessel, 8 ltr ?
 
Hi setanta, it all depends on the output pressure of your domestic water pump. Most common pumps are 20/40psi. Try finding pressure info from your pumps manufacturer. I would think 3 bar would work ok with 35 psi water pressure but when the water gets hot and expands it may cause the relief valve to leak.
Charlie w.
 
Hey Charlie, speaking of block heaters. I have a 1971 2714E 120 Lehman. How does one go about installing a block heater that goes into a freeze plug?
Frank
 
Hi timeless 42, i don't think you'll find one to fit. A magnetic 200 watt heater mounted center of block below ex/int manifold works well. Local parts store should have them.
Also if your engine is 1971, 120hp it should be a 2703e dorset 363 cubic inch.
Charlie w
 
CHARLIE W said:
Hi timeless 42, i don't think you'll find one to fit. A magnetic 200 watt heater mounted center of block below ex/int manifold works well. Local parts store should have them.
Also if your engine is 1971, 120hp it should be a 2703e dorset 363 cubic inch.
Charlie w
Click to expand...
Charlie, thanks for the response. I have all the original paperwork for the engines when they were installed in my Grand Banks. Engine plate reads 2714E and the ci. is 380. I didn't write it down but the plate has the build # etc. on it. I already have the block heaters, they were purchased by the previous owner. I just wanted to confirm with someone that all I do is punch out one of the freeze plugs and insert the tapered rubber plug on the heater. Is there any particular plug to punch or would the easiest one to access do?
Frank
 
Hi frank, i assume your engines are replacements? Towards center of block if possible. Carefully punch top of plug in=bottom should come out. If not ,drill a hole near the bottom of plug, screw in a self tapping screw and pry out. They are stainless steel and tight fit. If you use it a lot watch your zincs since these heaters create stray current.
Charlie w.
 
Charlie, I thought I sent the build info but I guess not. Here it is. What does it tell you? Thanks

2714E HD-A Block-A Fuel System-AA
513-5F1/100/500

Frank
 
Frank, 2714e is 380 cu.in and was mfg'd about 1980's heavy duty block and head,dual fuel filter, cav/simms p5130 injection pump and 100 #flywheel. Serial #is stamped into antifreeze expansion tank or middle side of exhaust manifold, six digits starting with letter s.
Charlie w.
 
Thanks for the response Charlie. If 100/500 means 100 lb. flywheel, what does the 500 stand for? Also, this is very interesting. I have documents from the shipyard when the boat was built listing the data as I supplied it. There is no record of an engine swap let alone BOTH engines, yet you say the engines are circa 1980, 9 years after the boat was built. I could only find a data plate on the strbd engine, serial # S797543 but the paperwork lists the serial # for port as S797544. Anyway its good to know they are heavy duty engines.
 
Sorry Charlie, I gave you the wrong info for the port engine. Port serial # is 792544, obtained off the original, crumbling paperwork (including 3 pages of complete parts listing 1971) from the original owners.
Frank
 
Sorry frank, my mistake, fossilization of brain setting in! S792544 was built march of 1971 and s797543 was built april 1971. Shipped directly to gb from england. I don't have a breakdown of the 500 spec. But believe it was the pto or special timing gears. The build #'s when supplied by ford many times were changed by our assembler in england to fit our requirements but the spec # was not altered. Hope this helps.
Charlie w.
 
Charlie, could you look at this picture and tell me if this is the correct Johnson pump assembly for my 2714E 120 Lehman.
Frank
s-l500.jpg
s-l500.jpg
s-l500.jpg
 
Hi frank, sorry i haven't been on in awhile. Yes that is correct pump but if memory serves and you are replacing the old 2 piece pump and drive (jabsco 5850) the gear will not fit the johnson pump since it is not a tapered shaft on the old drive. Let me know if that is the case.
Charlie w.
 
Charlie, thanks for responding. This is starting to drive me crazy. I emailed BOMAC Marine and asked them also. They responded and said they sell the Jabsco pump, not the Johnson but that it would fit. I am trying to make sure that whatever I buy will fit BEFORE I pull the old one out. I don't want to pull the old one out and then try to match it. The gear thing is what is really causing my headache. How do I know if I need the gear part (which adds $150). BOMAC Marine does, however, suggest upgrading the gear. Would that "newer" gear be what is on a new unit? Why is everyone using Jabsco pump numbers instead of Johnson? Are Johnson pumps not available anymore?
Frank
 
Hi frank, jabsco & johnson are both available but neither one sells with gear. Originally designed for sp series lehman with new pump which you have but no gear. You just swapped gears from old to new. Your engine most likely has a jabsco 5850 pump fastened with four bolts to an aluminum housing that connects to the engine with 3 bolts. In this case you can't change gears because the gear mounts to a 5/8 straight shaft with a key & snap ring. This drive is n.l.a. My advice, buy the angled tooth gear& use the new johnson pump. Save the removed assy and have a machine shop machine a taper and keyslot in the old gear for spare.

Why are you changing pumps? Is the pump or drive bad?
Charlie w.
 
Hi frank, just to add more wrinkles- some jabsco pumps had 1" taper shafts. All new pumps are 3/4" taper. Also the inlet and outlet on jabsco's are bsp thread, johnsons are npt, so stick with the johnson.
Also adc has plenty of gears (straight teeth& angled) and pumps in stock. 804-435-3107
charlie w.
 
Hey Charlie, I thought the pump housing was going to be toast judging from the outside (cruddy, several screws broken off on the cover plate, etc.) I opened it up and was able to save the pump. I was able to remove the broken off screws, I smoothed out some rough areas with emery cloth and replaced the covers (and new impellers). Also, I apparently have the newer version pump (or somebody upgraded) because the pump bolts directly to the engine with 3 bolts; not the long, 2-piece assembly. I tried to attach a pic but wasn't able to.
Frank
 
I saw here Cristoff wrote that that the Water Mota Sea Scout MK 2 was ''based on'' the Lehman 2712E, does that mean they are the same engine? I had called Water Mota and they said they do not have anything to do with these engines any more, they referred me to Stevensons Marine but they do not answer either of their phones or reply to my emails, the same for American Diesel. The boat is in the Caribbean and I want to have my engine rebuilt completely so I need the parts for this, does anyone have any ideas?
 
Back
Top