otterlake
New member
I have a brand new Yamaha F20, a 20HP outboard boat motor, specifically the remote-only model (steering/throttle/shift).
I studied carefully everything and installed a center console, shift cable, throttle cable, and even managed to get that thick wiring cable's “wiring harness” plug thru the motor and plugged in and fastened.
I hooked up power to the motor (nice, oversized, new deep cycle battery, charged).
The 703 control box I have is brand new but admittedly a generic (not Yamaha, but a clone). I'm regretting that, but the odds are still overwhelmingly against it being defective, probability-wise. Still, maybe it is... but I wish I could troubleshoot whatever is going on electrically:
The mechanical stuff (cables, throttle movement, shifting, steering) all checks out fine, at least as far as a motor without power can display.
With it clicked nicely into Neutral on the control box:
Turning the key does nothing (no electric start).
I have the control box's safety lanyard properly applied; I've used them before (buy I wish that's all it was).
Here's where I was really slayed: with the gas line plugged in and the garden water hose on full (screwed into the flush assembly) I tried the black rubber Start button on the motor: also nothing.
So I got the bright idea to pull the start cord.
Oh, it started beautifully – but there was no way to shut it off!
The control box – turn the key off, pull out the key, pull the safety lanyard off the control box – all totally ignored while the motor kept running and running.
After I tested Forward, Reverse, Idle speed lever – all working fine...
...there appeard to be NO on-board kill switch (on the motor itself) like the tiller version.
I even unplugged the wiring harness/plug and it STILL kept running.
I finally yanked a spark plug cap as not to have to make it run out of gas.
If there is, indeed, an on-the-motor kill switch, it still doesn't fix whatever's wrong.
Now, there were these wires left over, but I thought these were just optional wires for tachometer, etc. etc. and can just be tucked away (?).
I don't know what to do... does this mean the 703 clone is, indeed, defective?
I know there are complaints but honestly most of them work fine if you see the actual number sold versus complaints.
I don't want to return it, buy a Yamaha 703 control box, and do all this horrible uninstalling and re-installing if I'm actually just doing something simple, wrong...???
Thank you so much. I'm at the limit of what the basic User's manual and online videos have taught me.
Most people who buy a new outboard could afford to just take it to a shop, but I can't. I can't hardly afford to cough up another $100 for the tech manual.
If I'm doing something wrong, surely I can learn what.
If it needs a real Yamaha 703, I can re-do it.
But I'll freak if that same thing happens.
Another odd thing was I tried the on-board black rubber Start button on the motor before I pulled the cord, and it didn't electrically start the motor, either.
It's like the electricity just isn't even hooked up or something. Like it just got started with the rope.But the battery is brand new and charged.
** OH – but the power tilt DOES work (directly on the motor, not the control box).
Thanks for any thoughts about what's wrong with my 703 control box installation.. I don't care about looking stupid I just need this to work for my wife and marriage, lol.
With gratitude,
Jeff
I studied carefully everything and installed a center console, shift cable, throttle cable, and even managed to get that thick wiring cable's “wiring harness” plug thru the motor and plugged in and fastened.
I hooked up power to the motor (nice, oversized, new deep cycle battery, charged).
The 703 control box I have is brand new but admittedly a generic (not Yamaha, but a clone). I'm regretting that, but the odds are still overwhelmingly against it being defective, probability-wise. Still, maybe it is... but I wish I could troubleshoot whatever is going on electrically:
The mechanical stuff (cables, throttle movement, shifting, steering) all checks out fine, at least as far as a motor without power can display.
With it clicked nicely into Neutral on the control box:
Turning the key does nothing (no electric start).
I have the control box's safety lanyard properly applied; I've used them before (buy I wish that's all it was).
Here's where I was really slayed: with the gas line plugged in and the garden water hose on full (screwed into the flush assembly) I tried the black rubber Start button on the motor: also nothing.
So I got the bright idea to pull the start cord.
Oh, it started beautifully – but there was no way to shut it off!
The control box – turn the key off, pull out the key, pull the safety lanyard off the control box – all totally ignored while the motor kept running and running.
After I tested Forward, Reverse, Idle speed lever – all working fine...
...there appeard to be NO on-board kill switch (on the motor itself) like the tiller version.
I even unplugged the wiring harness/plug and it STILL kept running.
I finally yanked a spark plug cap as not to have to make it run out of gas.
If there is, indeed, an on-the-motor kill switch, it still doesn't fix whatever's wrong.
Now, there were these wires left over, but I thought these were just optional wires for tachometer, etc. etc. and can just be tucked away (?).
I don't know what to do... does this mean the 703 clone is, indeed, defective?
I know there are complaints but honestly most of them work fine if you see the actual number sold versus complaints.
I don't want to return it, buy a Yamaha 703 control box, and do all this horrible uninstalling and re-installing if I'm actually just doing something simple, wrong...???
Thank you so much. I'm at the limit of what the basic User's manual and online videos have taught me.
Most people who buy a new outboard could afford to just take it to a shop, but I can't. I can't hardly afford to cough up another $100 for the tech manual.
If I'm doing something wrong, surely I can learn what.
If it needs a real Yamaha 703, I can re-do it.
But I'll freak if that same thing happens.
Another odd thing was I tried the on-board black rubber Start button on the motor before I pulled the cord, and it didn't electrically start the motor, either.
It's like the electricity just isn't even hooked up or something. Like it just got started with the rope.But the battery is brand new and charged.
** OH – but the power tilt DOES work (directly on the motor, not the control box).
Thanks for any thoughts about what's wrong with my 703 control box installation.. I don't care about looking stupid I just need this to work for my wife and marriage, lol.
With gratitude,
Jeff