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No oil pressure reading after oil and filter change??

M

matt.speedtriple

Regular Contributor
Hi folk,

After changing my oil and filter then i`m getting no reading on the gauge at all. I've gone to the extent already of fitting a new gauge and sensor but still no luck.

When i changed the oil then i made a point of filling the filter before fitting it so i`m not sure what to do now. The filter is the old remote type fed by two hoses if that`s any help in finding an answer.

It`d be nice to actually get some use out of the boat as at the moment then i`m just hitting one problem after another due to the last owners lack of maintenance. Just to add to things then the alternator packed up at the weekend so that`s yet another thing to add to the list!

Cheers for any help and advice, as at the moment a gallon of petrol and a box of matches seem like a good option!

Matt.
 
Matt,just guessing but the oil filter element may be wrong or oil bypass is stuck. Check # on old filter vs new. Secondly, remve oil lines from filter housing and connect together just to see if you get oil pressure.
Were oil lines removed to change filter ??

Good to hear from you but not under these circumstances!! Thought you'd be out cruising by now!!
Charlie w
 
Hi Charlie, the old filter is long gone but was the same as the new one that was fitted. What is and where do i find this oil bypass please? I`ll try connecting the oil lines directly the next time i get through to the boat and see what happens and report back.

Oil lines weren`t removed at oil change as i thought the amount of oil in them wouldn`t make much difference to the amount of oil being put in.

I hoped to be out on the sea myself but no such luck as it`s just been one problem after another and at this rate i`ll be getting the boat lifted out of the water, stripping everything out, filling the hole in the transom and buying a large modern 4 stroke outboard as i`m about at my wits end with this!

Cheers, Matt.
 
Matt,
if the only thing that has changed since you last ran the engine was the oil filter, than it most be the filter. The bypass is in the filter if it is the thread on type .

You could also try removing the filter element, wrap a plastic bag around the adapter (oil filter base) and crank the engine holding the stop button you should see oil.

If you do the filter is bad. If not , could the oil have leaked from the sump?? Charlie w
 
Hi Charlie,

The filter is the old cartridge type rather than the spin on ones. I`ve emptied and cleaned the bilge completly and there`s no sign of any oil dripping out that i can see.

By what i can see on a photo i took for you before then i've one hose coming from the engine which leads upto the filter and then a return hose which goes to the oil cooler. I`ll first try removing the supply hose to the filter and see if i have flow and if so then i`ll reconnect it and try the same thing at the oil cooler as that`d show me if the filter is allowing flow. If it`s not then i`ll probably need to see about getting a replacement remote spin on filter housing and filter to update yet something else.

Cheers, Matt.
 
Matt,
can't imagine why you don't have oil pressure but when you remove the oil line to the engine pour a pint of oil in the hose . This should prime the pump. The old cartridge tye filter is fine just messy!!
I looked thru the pictures i have but can't find the oil filter.
Charlie w.
 
Hi Charlie, I`m puzzled as well but i`ll try priming it and see if that helps. Hopefully it won`t be another case of one step forward and two steps back as i`ve been able to find a replacement brush pack for the alternator as well.
Keep your fingers crossed for me, Matt.
 
Well i went to the boat over the weekend and tried checking the oil flow and it`s flowing fine both to and from the filter but still nothing showing on the gauge. I then decided to try having a go at the alternator which is a CAV AC5 24 volt i've now found out. Anyway, i finally got it off the engine and got the screws out which hold the brush pack in only to find that the brushes were almost as long as the new set i had to fit. New ones now fitted anyway.

I decided that i`d bring the alternator home and see if the local auto sparky repair place would test it for me so went down today only to be told that it`s too old and they don`t have any way of testing them now but they could sell me a modern reconditioned replacement for £200 ($315) which i politely refused. After some research i phoned a place and found out all i need is a 2w 24volt bulb and a few bits of wire and i can check it myself.

Now as per normal then nothing runs smoothly and the last time i was through then i`d cleaned all the bilge out and noticed a small weep of what i thought was rain water getting in through the old window seals. Well when i had a closer look this weekend then my water leak was red and smelt strongly of diesel! Yup, one of the fibre-glassed in steel 60 gallon tanks is leaking just to add to everything else.

Matt.
 
Wow matt,
the problems you have are what i face everyday as a mechanic but usually not all in one boat !! I wish we were closer so i could give you some help. 24 volt equipment is not too common here except in the larger diesels.
Try removing the oil sender and cranking it over. Was the oil cooler replaced recently ?
Charlie w.
 
Hi Charlie,
The oil cooler is original equipment for the boat as the plate on it is stamped 1977. I do have a newer version that has a spin on oil filter attachment so if needs be i could swap it out. I`ll try removing the oil sender next and see what i get there as i`ll be hanging upside down over that side of the engine putting the alternator in anyway lol.

When i get time then i`ll see about posting up a diagram and instructions how to test these old alternators to save people some money as these are the seperate regulator type and cost mega bucks to replace with the same type.
Cheers, Matt.
 
This happened to me once, I let some oil out of the filter and screwed it back on and I then got oil pressure. I think it must have got airlocked somehow

Norm
 
WARNING...
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE.....!!!

Just going through the same problem...My old 4 cyl Lehman.
I changed the oil cooler, filter and the filter bracket. Started it up and NO OIL PRESSURE...
I figured it was because the filter, oil cooler and the lines were empty so would need time to fill before I got any oil pressure readings.
I slackened the filter and there was plenty of oil, so I ran the engine at 1000 rpm waiting for the oil pressure to kick in....
Well guess what?
It didn’t kick in........
Now I have a main bearing job....Ship! Ship! Ship!
SO...
NO OIL PRESSURE... DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE...!
Hope this saves somebody a ship load of work!
 
Hi jason, could it be possible the oil lines at the oil filter were reversed?? The spin on filter has a check valve in it which will allow oil in one direction only.
Charlie w.
 
Charlie, you’re probably right it could easily be the hoses wrong way around on the filter.
The problem I have now is to replace the big end bearings. At least one is so tight that she won’t turn over, but it’s not completely frozen. I’m praying that the shaft is ok and doesn’t have to come out.
I haven’t started the job yet but it’s got to be done this week.

She’s a 36' Gulfstar, center cockpit, sailboat. 4 cyl Lehman
I’m thinking that I can do it by lifting the engine in the engine room. I might just have enough head room to lift it high enough to get the sump off and replace the bearings from underneath.
Removing the engine would mean cutting the cockpit floor out including the binnacle and wiring. I want to avoid that if I can.

I’d appreciate any experienced advice on what to expect once I get the sump off and replacing the bearings. Considering that I’ll be working upside down with a bunch of mirrors and just enough room to get my hands in, I doubt there’ll be enough room to get underneath.

How do I measure and decide what size / oversize bearings to buy and where do you think the best place to get the new shell bearings?

Any advice much appreciated..
 
Hi jason, as former service mgr. For lehman i can assure you that the engine will have to come out. The camshaft bearings are also damaged and will require an auto machine shop to install them and cut the crank. They normally supply the bearings. It may be easier to tear down the engine in the boat. Start by removing the head,alternator,starter,trans,heat exchanger etc. This makes it easier to lift the short block to remove the oil pan and flywheel. It will still weight about 300# but smaller in size. Also you will not be able to remove the front crankshaft bolt. Needs impact wrench over 250 ft # sorry to trash your day!!
Charlie w.
 
Abraham was the first man on directions from God to circumcise himself…..
He looked up at God and said….
Now let me get this quite clear….. You want me to what…????

I’m asking you Charlie…..
You want me to what….?
Nah! Nah! Nah!….. I don’t want to hear it….
Simple job…. Just replace the big end bearings…. Right..???
 
hi Jason, wish it was that easy but running without oil pressure creates enough heat to melt the bearings to the crank and cam shaft. also all those fine metal particles are in the oil. almost always it's the rod bearings that fail first. it's better to do it right the first time because part are becoming scarce and expensive.
Charlie w.
 
[FONT=&quot]Charlie I wish you were standing over me right now, I could do with some serious help.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I’ve stripped everything off the engine including the head. I’m down to a short block. Transmission still attached as it’s also the engine mounts.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The engine mounts are all loose and I’m ready to lift the engine. But figuring out how to get a come along to work in the engine room is proving to be a mystery.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
I’m thinking that I can get away with cutting a few chain holes in the cockpit floor and rigging the come along in the cockpit, then once I’ve cleared the engine mounts and oil pan I can lay some boards and turn the engine on its side.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I can’t see any way that I can get the engine out even with just the short block.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]300 lbs you say?

Have you got any recommendations for buying rebuild kit and parts?[/FONT]
 
Hi Jason, Sounds like a real nightmare! American diesel corp 804 435 3107 if they don,t have it I have some parts left. trans adds 125# flywheel 87# or 200# depending on what was required by Gulfstar.
Chrlie w.
 
Well Charlie here’s a progress report…..
After a lot of playing with come alongs’ through holes in the cockpit floor hung from 4x4s across the cockpit coaming I’ve managed to get the engine stripped down, transmission off and engine block laying on its side, with the oil pan off I can get to the bearings. They all need replacing. No 2 piston was real bad and the reason it was seized but the crankshaft looks to be ok. I’ll polish the journals with 600 anyway. Thanks for recommending American Diesel, they were very helpful. I’ve ordered the new bearings and the rebuild gasket kit. As you so rightly predicted, there’s no way I can get the front pulley bolt undone so I’m going to have to rebuild without replacing the no.1 main bearing. Not good I know, but no choice. The engine turns by hand so hopefully the No. 1 bearing is ok and there was no sign of metal glitter in the oil pan.
Time now to start air blowing and cleaning everything ready for the rebuild when the new bearings arrive. Two or three days.
Parts from American Diesel.
Main Bearings $94
Big End Bearings $64
Gasket kit $214

I couldn’t pump out the cold oil through the dipstick hole so while I’m there I want to fit a drain plug hose with a stop cock to oil change in future, just a brass elbow with an oil hose should do it.
Any thoughts?
 
Hi, Jason, Get a long cold chisel and a hand sledge hammer. Place the chisel on the outside edge (flange) of the crankshaft bolt and drive it counterclockwise. It would help if you can heat it even with a propane torch. you will mess up the bolt edge but file it down and reuse. what are you doing about the piston??
American has drain hose kits or you can drill and tap your plug 1/4 npt.
Charlie W
 
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