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plugs and carb.1970 60hp

4

48tony

Regular Contributor
hi all. i had the best weekend on the water .my 1970 60 hp ran great.sat i trolled allday it woulld start to coughf and sneeze after ahour trolling so i did a few laps on the pond at full speed to clean her out.well yesterday i leaned out the carbs and trolled all day ran like a top.then after allmost 8 hours of just idle speed she started to act up so i did a lap or 2 and cleaned her out.but it was bucking real bad then stalled out.took the plugs out cleaned and dried put back in. it started back up but ran bad go to give it gas and it would buck along then stall out.put spare set of plugs in at this point and it did the same. do i need to rip down carbs. or will it setting over night do it good. allso can i just clean the plugs the set i was running are new. if foled will they be ok after drying and cleaning.any hints.
 
Re: plugs and carb.

They will idle really nice all day when " lean "!-----------then when you try to accelerate you find that they are too lean.----------------So open them up 1/8th turn at a time till the problem goes away.
 
Re: plugs and carb.

if it was to lean why did it seem as it was fouling the plugs.i just took the plugs out and blew out cylinders. took the low speed needles out sprayed carb cleaner in the holes and took the bowl drain bolts out sprayed them to then blew out with comp air .hope the fast fix does it. dont want to pull carbs again. done it 100 times getting this beeeatch to run right.i have my needles adjusted allmost one full turn.yesterday i had them out only one half turn as you say too lean.i guess trying to get trolling speed out of a 60 hp i will need to adjust needles when trolling. then play time ill have to tweek the carbs.
 
Re: plugs and carb.

Carburetors once clean give very little trouble and using " mechanic in a can " is a waste of time .--------------Is there a thermostat installed and is it working properly?? Have you replaced the boots on the plug wires at the distributor cap.---------I have mentioned before, the initial setting on these carburetors is 5/8th turn out and then you go from there !!
 
Re: plugs and carb.

48tony said:
if it was to lean why did it seem as it was fouling the plugs.i just took the plugs out and blew out cylinders. took the low speed needles out sprayed carb cleaner in the holes and took the bowl drain bolts out sprayed them to then blew out with comp air .hope the fast fix does it. dont want to pull carbs again. done it 100 times getting this beeeatch to run right.i have my needles adjusted allmost one full turn.yesterday i had them out only one half turn as you say too lean.i guess trying to get trolling speed out of a 60 hp i will need to adjust needles when trolling. then play time ill have to tweek the carbs.
Click to expand...

yes i just put a new thermostat in motor can run allday and put hand on the head. i have not replaceed plug wires as they seem to look new.my carbs were rebuilt this spring. i pt the boyson dual stage reeds in vs the stock. this is were i am thinking my slow speed adjustment is giving me a hard time finding the sweet spot. it runs good with the rpms at 700 at idle at take off it snaps too about 1200 to 1500 rpms then a slight flutter. then a good throttle responce from there. ihave leaned and richened the carbs but no adjustmet can fix.maybe i am asking too much for a 40 year old motor. put new amp new stator .coil. rectofier. so it has all good parts 130 comp in each hole.
 
Re: plugs and carb.

Tony... Best thing to do is to (assuming the the carbs are proper condition) adjust the slow speed needle valve properly, then leave them alone. Readjusting "lean" for trolling is not a good idea.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Re: plugs and carb.

yes i just was wondering if anyone could help me on some issues i am having with this same motor! i have had a lot of trouble with getting it to run properly. it will run but not good at all i have taken it to the lake once and wont do it again until i can get it right. the boat set up for 6 yrs here is what ive done i have cleaned the carbs they look great!!! i have replaced the points(which are breaker points that i set at .010. i have replaced the rectifier,plugs new wires and terminal block. i have come to the conclusion that it may not even have wires in the correct order,being that it has sheared two keys during cranking. now it is to the point to where the timing advance must be moved in the opposite position from the way it is supposed to go to make it run the rotor and ditributer are new also new. the wires are 1,2,3 in that order clockwise around the distributor i am pulling my hair out any help would be soooooooo greatly appreciated. the time it run good i could tell it is a very strong motor. i really dont want to change it thanks in advance,
 
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