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rectifer voltage over charge

evidently noone can help you find info on a regulator....nor can i......on later models the holes were already drilled and tapped for use on the same block when the block was use on higher hp engines...the rectifier only engines had the rectifier on the left hand side of the block as viewed from inside the boat...the holes for the regulator were on top of the block right behind the flywheel...if you have the holes there you can look at the next step up or two in horsepower of that vintage and probably find the part number for the regulator...the other option is to go with a cheaper amh battery with cca in the 360-400 amp range...they are not easy to find today...but that is the battery recommended for that motor in the book....you will eventually blow the rectifier and possibly the winding in the stator running with a sealed or gel battery...even a good marine battery will fail...in the meanwhile add a load such as running lights or a 12v cooler to the battery being charged.... they basic problem is there is no internal discharge in the new good batteries today....and if you are running unregulated then the battery will take whatever you put out...
 
thanks papyson for the info. I will check out mounting holes, from the wiring drawings I cant see why a regulator cant be installed in the system, coupee.
 
I had the same overcharging problem on my 1989 60/70hp and converted to regulator last year. My engine has a 6 amp stator (I think yours as well) so I had the choice between CDI 193-4476, Sierra 18-5827, and Mallory 9-17202.

For the CDI part I would have had to add the purple wire in the engine harness (+12V from key switch), because this wire comes from the remote control and ends in the engine's big red connector and isn't provided in my engine (again, I think yours as well). I took the Mallory part because of the cooling gills the Sierra does not have.

The regulator is a big brick, so the hardest part is to make it fit under the cowling. The power trim relays need a new ground connection, because the old one was one of the rectifier mounting screws. Next to the trim relays there was a small hook that I ground off. I drilled and tapped into the electrical mounting plate (used an old cloth to prevent chips falling down where I can't remove them anymore) and made a spacer tube for the lower mounting screw and a small piece of 3mm aluminum for the upper screw. Unfortunately the mounting plate isn't reinforced at the new hole locations. If you feel uncomfortable, mount the screws from behind and use nuts to fix the regulator.

Don't forget: On the electical terminal bar the connection between the yellow/gray and the gray lead must be removed because the tach signal (gray) is now supplied by the regulator.

RegulatorMounted.jpg
 
to wernerF thanks you solved my problem. nice wiring job on the regulator. my eng. has the mounting holes mentioned in an earlier replay.COUPEE
 
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