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V-Penta Transom

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Rocky01

New member
Hey everyone,

I need to know how to replace the seal between the transom plate and hull.
Does anybody have a part number?
AQ130d 270/280? 17ft Ranger Pleasure/River boat...
Getting water in a slit on the bottom of the seal.
I filled up bilge area and jack the nose of boat(I know that's not name) high and water
came out at slit. I have no other leaks I can see when boat was in water.
Transom could be bad, bolts don't look too sunken though. I am looking to get through
spring and summer season and then i'm re-doing transom and floor if necessary.

Thanks in advance to all you pro's/weekend warriors!!!
Pics: http://s1121.photobucket.com/albums/l518/magicoperales/

Steve in Vegas.
 
Steve, the Transom Shield area, where it mates to the hull's Transom, is certainly a suspect area. There are also several locations that may cause a leak.

Your engine is one of the Cantilever Hung engines. This means that your Transom Shield, and Transom, play a heavy role in engine support. No time for a soft transom on this package.
If the transom core is good, this system works just fine. No issues!
5264_big.png


I'd first remove the six transom shield mounting nuts (seq #62) and place six larger, heavy, plate washers behind the nuts, and re-torque them. See if this brings the Transom Shield tighter to the hull's Transom. It may prevent this leak.
If not, you may need to remove the entire Transom Shield. The rope gasket is available via Volvo Penta.

Next would be the exhaust down tube (seq #22) where it connects to the Transom Shield.

You may also want to look at the shift cable "sheathe" (seq #55) that keeps the shift cable above water line. There will be a tin crimp sleeve the holds this rubber sheathe tightly onto the transom shield fitting. If rusted through, the hose looses "bite" against the fitting, and will leak.


Heat is your friend on any of these female fastener threads, as to help against corrosion. Forget penetrating oils.... they just can't get where they need to be, and in any reasonable time frame.
Apply some heat to these prior to attempting fastener removal. This is the voice of experience speaking. :)


I noticed that you have a rather rare 280 lower production model "exhaust flapper". Treat with kindness..... this part was never available over the counter. This is much better than the internal exhaust bellows flapper.

.
 
Thanks for the info Rick, I will be having some help by a boat mech/friend. I wouldn't be asking anyone else
for help but my mech has more Merc experience than these old Volvos. Also I noticed the engine has no motor mounts.
Would installing mounts help in relieving some of the weight/pressure on transom?
 
Rocky01 said:
Thanks for the info Rick, I will be having some help by a boat mech/friend. I wouldn't be asking anyone else
for help but my mech has more Merc experience than these old Volvos. Also I noticed the engine has no motor mounts.

Would installing mounts help in relieving some of the weight/pressure on transom?
Click to expand...
Well, don't hesitate to ask if you need help! These are considerably different from M/C.

If your transom core is good, there are no issues with the Cantilever Hung engines.
The weight of this little engine can not be compared to that of the torque (from FWD propulsion) that is transferred into the transom.
IOW, if the transom is too soft to adequately support this engine, then it is also inadequate to transfer thrust to the hull.
Makes sense?
 
Makes sense.
I know that using a band aid on something that needs to be stitched is wrong on a boat
but my wallet is not fat right now. Didn't pay much on this boat and it runs o.k. and if I can get past this summer I will
fix transom right. Thanks for your help and opinions, greatly appreciated...
I will give updates.

Thanks,
Steve in Vegas.
 
I put 5200 sealant on and it held, but after 2 days in water the bottom of seal started to come off in gobs.
Maybe I should have let it cure for more than 24hrs?
 
You will occasionally see where someone has sealed (caulked) around the perimeter of the transom shield. This is a short time fix for a bad and flexing transom core. When/if the transom flexes, this rather unorthodoxed "perimeter" seal is now breached.
I've also seen a new transom core installed, whereby a straight edge had not been used during the first lay-up!
The transom was no longer nice and flat, and is now locked into this position for the rest of it's life! These pose some sealing issues.
 
I jumped on this thread because mine is leaking in the same spot... and at a decent pace, about a gallon a minute. This is a new development as its never leaked in the past. On the outside of the transom at the top it is flush with the transom. Undernieth (where it was leaking) there is about a 1/4" gap between the shield and the transom and I can see some rubber grommets showing. Could it be as simple as tightening the mounting bolts on the transom? The only thing "new" or different on the boat is my weber conversion. Could that have caused extra torque to loosen the bolts? Its got more powe but not THAT much more....
 
discobayken said:
I jumped on this thread because mine is leaking in the same spot... and at a decent pace, about a gallon a minute. This is a new development as its never leaked in the past. On the outside of the transom at the top it is flush with the transom. Undernieth (where it was leaking) there is about a 1/4" gap between the shield and the transom and I can see some rubber grommets showing. Could it be as simple as tightening the mounting bolts on the transom?
Click to expand...
While tightening the nuts may pull the shield back tightly against the transom, this would be a temporary fix to a larger issue.
Reason: your transom core is very likely deteriorating.

The inner nuts/washers have been slowly sinking into the now soft material.
As a result, the shield is pulling away at the lower section/area.
When under power, it sucks up tightly.... and the process repeats itself when power is reduced.

Another temporary fix may be two very large plate washers under the two lowest existing washers.
This will spread the load out some.... but again, this is a temporary fix.... not a repair!

.
 
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Rick:

Interesting that all 6 nuts were pretty loose. The transom appears sound and after several light smacks of a hammer I found no dead spots. I did take the bottom nuts off and I added some oversized washers. I squirted some 4200 in the gap then tightened all the nuts. I'll let it cure a few days and launch it again. Hopefully it that will cure this issue for at least a season or two. If I have to pull the motor and OD to repair it... I'm probably going to change out the motor to something with more power. Thank you for the help!

Ken
 
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