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Mercruiser power steering

Akjohn

Akjohn

Contributing Member
I am in the process of redoing and repowereing a 1982 24' Glasply, we have a replacment motor along with a Alpha I G II.
I have never run this boat and still have lots to learn, we are in the process of removing the Mercruiser rotary helm (it appears one has to seperate the case 1/2's to get the cable out?).

The real issue is I think we should replace the helm, would you guys reccomend a rotary helm or a rack style? And I presume the power assist on the drive would negate the thought of going to hydraulic steering.........?

As always, I appreciate the help here............J
 
Ayuh,.... The difference 'tween the rotary, 'n rack is the space you have to work with,....

Rotary will be Easier...
 
bondo said:
Ayuh,.... The difference 'tween the rotary, 'n rack is the space you have to work with,....

Rotary will be Easier...
Click to expand...

Uhuh.......got that, I have looked at both and recognize they have diffrent shapes and fit diffrently, still the question remains, is the rack preferred if space allows............?
And is there any point in going to Hydraulic steering or is the Mercruiser power assist OK?
 
No difference, only space requirements dictate...........No need for hydraulic unless you have a physical impediment......

Note: when you purchase a new steering cable assembly it comes with a new helm mount. the only thing you need to retain is the steering wheel.
Most likley you will need to drill new mounting holes.

It is not reccomended to reuse the old steering "box" whether it be round or rack... a new assembly will have a new cable and new box. ~ $140.00 for kit.

I would bring the entire cable (only) to the store so you measure it the way they want it measured. If the cable has the info on it then that may be enough..but measure it anyway. cable end to end and cable outer core end to cable outer core end nad write down both measurements.
 
I installed a Teleflex rotary system with a tilt wheel and really like it. I think the rack and pinion setup takes up a lot more space behind the dash maybe limiting what you can do with the dash board with respect to gauges,etc. I built my own dash and had to cut in the gauges etc. so I was looking for as much space on dash as possible. The power assist, if original, may leak unless someone already replaced it. (mine leaked like a pig and that is why I had to replace) It just sat too long. I'm not sure if you would have the Saginaw power assist on your boat but I have a 1988 setup on mine and it had it. (You have a pre-alpha) I replaced mine with another new old parts Saginaw power assist simply to make it easier to plumb everything. (The fittings on the newer are quick disconnect and I think you would have to make changes to the original power steering high pressure line and return line ends to make it work.) That is why I stayed with the old system. Just easier and nothing to change or retrofit. Also, the high pressure power steering line is like around $100.00. new (close to that) Back to the helm! I got the more expensive steering system which is supposed to take alot of free-play that the older sysems have in them and also steers with less full rotations of the wheel. I think it was called a high perfomance package. I forget what the kit number was but like I said I am very happy with the steering control,handling etc. Works really nicely! Bondo is right about more room with the rotary steering helm. I would take kghosts advice and take the cable right to the place you are going to order it from. Look on the old casing for numbers. It should hopefully identify the maker and length if it is visible on the original casing. Don't be surprised if the number is superseded also. (Mine was superseded by another newer cable number. Your boat is a 1982 so alot has changed since then along with part #s. I went right to Teleflex Marine and there is a guy that does the marine stuff and he told me exactly what I needed to do. However, they are not retailers so you would have to order parts either here or another retailer on the web. Just be careful before you order it. Make sure you double check your measurements for length if there are no numbers on old casing. Teleflex has a step by step way of taking measurements with respect to length. The original cable should give you the correct length. I did not have the luxury of the old cable because I was doing a new installation with nothing to work off of so I had to wing it. Don't be afraid to ask questions before you go and order anything and do some homework with respect to different steering kits. You will figure it out with a little work on your part. Good luck, Tom
 
Tom, thanks for the reply, we bought a 1998 motor w/ alpha I Gen II sterndrive to replace the existing motor and drive, I will have to find out if the power assist is included with the motor as I have not recieved it yet.

I have a local dealer here that is excellent and replaced the helm on my riverboat with a tilt unit and that swap was fairly straightforward. We are planning to build a new dash and will design as need be, trying to decide on electronics also to see how much space is needed or left over.

Since I have never actually operated this boat I thought I would get some ideas on what works and what doesnt, do you know how many rotations your helm is? Thanks, John
 
Hey John, been awhile since I installed all this stuff. I think I have a 15" inch wheel and it takes three full rotations. I have wanted to put one of those swivel steering balls on the wheel but to tell you the truth the boat steers pretty darn good so I did not for the sake of the fifty bucks. lol Whatever you decide to do, do it once and be done with it. I think the whole system ran about $250-$300 but it has been awhile. Hopefully, the guy gives you the power steering hoses with the engine along with the power assist. It is part of the inner transom assembly so you would think that would be the case. I would go with the newer power assist (which should be the case with the gen. II you bought.) Makes it a little easier later on you if you were to have to pull the engine. (quick disconnects) Anyway, take your time and lay it out the way you want it not just the way it would work. If you don't get the power assist with engine, you should be able to find an oem power assist for $150-$200 if you look real hard. Buy it brand new. Don't buy it used and forget about rebuilding. I had my old one apart with the idea of rebuilding and quickly abandoned that thought! lol (Buy a new one) You don't need problems out on the water along with a blown power steering pump and oil in the bilge. Make sure your power steering high pressure line is in good shape. Mine was old, chaffed, and partially melted from the exaust. Make sure you route the hoses and zip tie them so they don't chaff from vibration. You should be good to go! good luck, Tom
 
Last edited:
Removing helm

Is there anyway to remove the cable from the rotary helm w/o spliting the case halfs............?
 

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Re: Removing helm

Akjohn said:
Is there anyway to remove the cable from the rotary helm w/o spliting the case halfs............?
Click to expand...

Nope,... Not that 1,....

Replace the Whole thing as a kit, helm, 'n cable...

That's a real Antique there....
 
Akjohn, Bondo is dead on! Teleflex pretty much requires steering cable and helm to be replaced as one unit. Your steering is one of the most important safety issues and you should take it seriously. I know you would like to remove and feed a new compatible cable through the old rotarty helm but it is just that "an old helm". I think any warranties are void if you were to do so anyway. For your safety and passengers, there would be nothing worse than having zero control at the wheel especially if you were docking around other boats and or travelling at high speed possibly causing a serious accident. Don't mean to lecture, but if you were to order parts indiviually it would cost far more than a kit. The kit is the way to go! I went through all of this stuff and asked the same questions and don't blame you a bit for asking. But, not worth lossing your boat or your life over. There is another concern about compatibility with the new cable vs. old helm. As Bondo stated "That's a real antique there" because it really is. Don't feel bad, mine was the old style rack and I attempted the same thing as you and figured out that the kit was the way to go. Go to Teleflex marine and you will find out which cable/helm will be compatible for your needs. I would call them directly at the Limerick Headquarters. As I stated there is a guy in the marine controls at that location that will literally tell you which helm/steering system to but you must give him the year/model and maybe serial # of the drive you plan to use. Google Teleflex Marine in Limerick, PA and look for a phone # on one of the sites. It will be there, just gotta find the right one. Call directly and tell them what you are trying to do. They were great and after the call, no more guessing and you will be given choices depending on engine,performance etc. They also make throttle shift cables for just about anything marine. However, they are the manufacturer and do not sell directly. You will have to order through a reputable retailer. I'm sure marineengine.com might be able to order them for you but you need all the #'s that you get from the guy at Teleflex so they don't try and send you the wrong ones. Don't laugh but it happened to me with the throttle, shift cable. Don't forget to take careful measurements using the formula for cable length which should also be on the Teleflex site. (don't want cable too long or too short or you will be disappointed and I believe they are not returnable. Just trying to make sure you don't make the same mistakes as I did because I had to learn as I went through all of the nonsense. lol Anyway, you don't have to go with the more expensive systems like I did and I am pretty sure it should no more than $150-$200 for the kit you need. Also make sure you read all the installation directions.
Make sure you don't turn cable 90 degrees without at least 6 inches of turning radius. It will shorten cable life or possibly worse. Oh yeah, the nightmare is coming back! lol Don't forget to get the lubrication nut kit with a zerks fitting on it that connects casing to the tiller so you can hit it with grease and not let cable seize up again. That's probably how it broke in the first place. I did not do it and I constantly have to keep shaft lubricated and clean. Just makes life a little easier, that's all. Boats that sit are doomed to this and alot of other problems so be ready for more problems to possibly occur. Depends how they are stored,maintained,and cared for. Ask me what I did for two hours today! You guessed it right, I worked on my boat! lol Two blown fuses due to a bad ground dangling, cleaning bilge pump housings of debris, fuel gauge connections oxidizing causing gauge to malfunction, short caused 6 amp fuse to fail in vhf radio, replacing impellar and housings on raw water pump and waiting on part, etc.,etc.,etc. In other words, "It never ends!" Lots of people have no idea what it takes to take care of a boat until they own one. The problem being, if you don't meticulously do routine maintenance items and also many unforseens, there is a very good chance you will be broken down and getting towed back to the dock. It can still happen even if you take care of your boat, but I feel your odds are alot better of having some quality time rather than trying to diagnose and fix out on the water. (That sucks) Alot of things can't be fixed on the water, that is the problem. all the best, Tom
 
I am planning to replace everything, no question bout that, jus windering if there was a way to "release" the cable for the existing helm for slightly easier disassembly, sounds like no.
 
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