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Mercruiser 4.3 V6 engine idling fast

Hey guys great news put on the new gasket and the engine purred like a kitten I set the RPMs at 900 anyone else recommend different? I'll wait on my tool to adjust my air mixture and then check the timing quick question on the timing should I have the RPMs at 2000 with 8°BTDC
Nice , set timing and idle mixture. Can do it by vacuum gauge or slow adjust each needle in until it starts to stumble then out until it stumbles, a tad richer than in the middle of these two stumbles is usually best
 
on the initial timing, you want the 8 deg BTDC at 700 RPM.

FWIW, manual #07 recommended doing the idle mixture adjustment in gear and at 550-600 RPM...I think the manual has a typo when they refer to neutral...
Okay thanks for that info I'm getting ready to install the motor in the boat and then I'll take it to the lake and do the mixture adjustment I got my tool in today appreciate the help I'll let you guys know the update
 
Another quick question on the motor mount brackets there is a one bolt hole and then there is a open slot that looks like it's an adjustment to the motor should the one hole bolt be behind or in front on each side of the motor when I mount it to the actual location? I imagine it has a little to do with the alignment of the drive Stern axle and yes I did pick up an alignment tool I just want to know which way the motor mount face towards the front of the motor
 
Your descriotion sucks, post pictures of the parts your talking about.

V6 and V8 motor mounts are a NO brainer.
Two fixed at transom and two attached to block and land on adjustable studs.

Whats so confusing?
 
pretty sure he is talking about the front mounts - where the lags go....one ear has the hole and the other has the slot.

the short answer is that it doesn't matter - position it so you can get both lags in with the mount as centered on the stringer as you can...
 
Oh, I see.

The problem is, people when pulling the engine "Think" removing the lag bolts is the correct method. It is Not.

You remove the top nut on both sides of the large studs only and then pull engine. That way when you re-install its only minor alignment adjustments needed.
 
agreed, assuming nothing else gets changed....

we were taught to put the adjustable slot on the forward mounts (on the V blocks) towards the front when doing a new install....but many boats came in 'backwards'....the regional service rep told us it didn't matter and that was decades ago....
 
agreed, assuming nothing else gets changed....

we were taught to put the adjustable slot on the forward mounts (on the V blocks) towards the front when doing a new install....but many boats came in 'backwards'....the regional service rep told us it didn't matter and that was decades ago....
If you saw the way Sea Ray did the factory mount location/lags in my 2004 200 sport you would never worry about how they are located again. They were completely askew different one side vs the other. In the end as long as alignment is good doesn't matter, just not very workmanship like. Actually made it easier for me when I repowered, didn't waste any time thinking about it
 
Oh, I see.

The problem is, people when pulling the engine "Think" removing the lag bolts is the correct method. It is Not.

You remove the top nut on both sides of the large studs only and then pull engine. That way when you re-install its only minor alignment adjustments needed.
Yes I am sure you're correct and everything you say however when it comes to a first-time rookie doing it on his own and not even being aware of these forums I did the best I could I just could not get a socket or a wrench in on that nut don't know why if it was metric or what so I just decided to take the two bolts out and remove the whole bracket however after reading your messages I got it figured out it really doesn't matter hopefully I won't have to do this again but if I do I'll do my best to remove the nut off of the stud and leave the bracket mounted this is my third time pulling the engine in reinstalling it I'm hoping it's the last time I want to disabled veteran from the military I got a busted knee a busted dumb a bullet wound in my left arm so it's not that easy just to jump in there and pop off a few nuts and yank the engine I'm doing the best I can even with all my disabilities God bless America
 
those nuts should be 1 1/8" I believe.
Its not easy on some boat designs, but if you need to adjust aligment up or down you will have to have the nuts loose and adjust them as needed.

So you should get the right tools now so you are prepaired
 
Sounds good get online and order a wrench from Amazon hopefully I have the engine in by the end of the week is the goal weather permittee thanks again
 
Hello friends here's the most recent update I got the engine back in the boat and fired it up to test everything and the first thing I noticed I was having power steering fluid come out of the return line it was a slight crack in the hose so ended up having to get that replaced. Also I noticed it was a water leak coming from the back of the hose that goes to the boat spout that goes out of the boat the main hose line here's the picture of it wanted to ask you guys is there any way to fix this can I just pull it out or is it connected somewhere in the outside and I don't know the names of every part of the drive Stern or the collar I'm sure there's another name for it I'll try to post a picture I know there would be a few issues the throttle cable Head be readjusted engine ran good now I have to just fix this water this must have happened putting on two plans I think I tightened one of them too tight I tried to post a picture but it says that the file is too large don't know why or how to fix it
 
I finally got it to work here's what I have
 

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Hello friends here's the most recent update I got the engine back in the boat and fired it up to test everything and the first thing I noticed I was having power steering fluid come out of the return line it was a slight crack in the hose so ended up having to get that replaced. Also I noticed it was a water leak coming from the back of the hose that goes to the boat spout that goes out of the boat the main hose line here's the picture of it wanted to ask you guys is there any way to fix this can I just pull it out or is it connected somewhere in the outside and I don't know the names of every part of the drive Stern or the collar I'm sure there's another name for it I'll try to post a picture I know there would be a few issues the throttle cable Head be readjusted engine ran good now I have to just fix this water this must have happened putting on two plans I think I tightened one of them too tight I tried to post a picture but it says that the file is too large don't know why or how to fix it
Gimbal
 
Yeah that was what I was afraid of I'm hoping not to pull the motor I'm trying to find another way maybe to fabricate there might be enough of the water spout to get a bite on it if I cut it or maybe just try to seal the crack with a blow torch and some hard plastic material
 
They made that out of plastic?!
A failure of that part could sink the boat!
Parts list says unavailable.
 
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