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1995 honda 40 hp still no peeing.

biglakebubba79

New member
still no tell tale with muffs or tank. new impeller, thermostat. Cleaned and back flushed water jacket. flow back from thermo. house to tell tale good.
impeller double checked for proper rotation. (I installed imp. to rotate CW. Still no pee. What else? Thanks much folks. biglake--
 
Hi,
A couple of ideas....

Have you removed the tell tale hose fitting (item 8 in link below) .....run some wire or compressed air into that passage and then started the engine with the fitting still removed?


If nothing comes out from that passage when you do that, then I might suspect that there's an issue with the water tube grommet (item 12 in the link below) or the water tube itself is plugged.


It's easy to miss getting the water tube fitted back into the grommet properly and wadding it up instead when going back together after an impeller change.

Also, that grommet just simply deteriorates over time and could work itself into being a plug to the system all on it's own.

Additionally, I have seen the seating area for that grommet to be badly eroded and not hold the grommet in place. I have repaired that area with epoxy and some "artistic license" and had that work but, be advised, that was only on old twin cylinder 7.5 hp engines.

It would be a much bigger job on the 40 hp as it does require the powerhead to be removed.

Hope you find it.

Good luck.
 
Hi,
A couple of ideas....

Have you removed the tell tale hose fitting (item 8 in link below) .....run some wire or compressed air into that passage and then started the engine with the fitting still removed?


If nothing comes out from that passage when you do that, then I might suspect that there's an issue with the water tube grommet (item 12 in the link below) or the water tube itself is plugged.


It's easy to miss getting the water tube fitted back into the grommet properly and wadding it up instead when going back together after an impeller change.

Also, that grommet just simply deteriorates over time and could work itself into being a plug to the system all on it's own.

Additionally, I have seen the seating area for that grommet to be badly eroded and not hold the grommet in place. I have repaired that area with epoxy and some "artistic license" and had that work but, be advised, that was only on old twin cylinder 7.5 hp engines.

It would be a much bigger job on the 40 hp as it does require the powerhead to be removed.

Hope you find it.

Good luck.
did all that. I foundo no sign of a grommet. Some kind of sealant on the threads of fitting. New thread posted.
Thanks much again.
 
So....
You say it pees ok while on the lake but not on muffs or in a "tank"? Did I read that right?

Could you elaborate about what "tank" you're using? A trashcan maybe?
 
Just trying to think why it would pee when in the lake and not in the tank....

My first thought is that it's not priming for some reason.

On some outboards, there are water inlets at the front of the gearcase that must be taped closed in order to get a proper seal for using muffs. I'm not sure if that applies to yours or not but something you may want to check for.

Besides that, muffs are very finicky anyway about getting a good seal and, if they don't fit right they won't work. That could cause damage to the pump and or unintentional overheat. It's why I prefer not to use muffs. Just my preference.

As far as priming and pumping in the lake and not in the tank, ....do you mean when the boat is moving or stationary?

If it's different when stationary, I tend to think it's likely that the outboard sits deeper in the water when in the lake than when in your drum.

You might need to modify the drum so that the lower end of the outboard is submerged at least as much in the tank as it is when in the lake.
A 30 gallon, plastic trashcan can be a good choice for use as a test tank because it's easier to cut and shape as well as being flexible and much lighter than the drum.

If it only pees when the boat is moving then that's a new one on me.

This outboard has a pick-up tube that should be closely inspected for even a tiny hole or small crack as that could affect the pump's ability to pick up prime.

See item 3 in the link.


It's also a good idea to remove the intake screens (items 13 & 14) and ensure that there's no weeds or other items in the cavity that might interfere with the pump picking up the water.

I see this outboard extension has a drain plug...item 8.

I don't know how that might effect priming but I would check it out. If the plug is missing or is badly deteriorated, it might be having a negative effect. I don't know.

Also if the speedometer tube isn't being used (items 17, 18 & 59) you might want to try plugging that off to see if it makes a difference. I'm not sure it should but I don't know.
 
Sorry for lack of clarity. it's a 55 gallon drum.
Do you have the water level up high enough in the drum? You have to have it higher than the location of the water pump. Which means more than just the inlet screens. About 3-4 inches higher than where the lower separates from the mid section.
 
Water should be up to the anti cavitation plate.
I was under the impression that it needed ti be higher than the cavitation plate?

Unless the small hp engines are different, the water pump sits higher than the cavitation plate. The pump needs to be submerged to prime it. Once the pump is primed, the water level can be at the cavitation plate, much like the boat getting on plane.
 
I’m not familiar with smaller Hondas but it seems the intakes to the pump are what needs to be submerged and logically they will be below the anti cavitation plate?
 
The 40/45/50 hp have a 3rd water inlet which is on the underside of the cavitation plate. It should be taped over when running on muffs to prevent air being sucked into the pump.
Or if running in a drum, you don't have to tape over the 3rd inlet if the water level is at least a couple of inches above the cavitation plate.

Bob
 
Do you have the water level up high enough in the drum? You have to have it higher than the location of the water pump. Which means more than just the inlet screens. About 3-4 inches higher than where the lower separates from the mid section.
Thanks for the comeback on my 1995 Honda. I got tied up with less important stuff, so today🤞I will launch the boat and try the motor to check for the tell tale to tattle. Great comebacks. I believe all the help will prove to be priceless. Thanks
 
still no tell tale with muffs or tank. new impeller, thermostat. Cleaned and back flushed water jacket. flow back from thermo. house to tell tale good.
impeller double checked for proper rotation. (I installed imp. to rotate CW. Still no pee. What else? Thanks much folks. biglake--
Well my freinds, the 50 hp no tell tale problem is solved or resolved.
I has never worked well with but I dunked it deep enough at the marina and that let her pee freely.
I need a bigger body of water to run it in. Many folks here have alluded to motors that don’t do well with muffs. So, thanks to all my friends on here who stuck it out with me.
Lastly, a question; With a drilled and tapped hole and fitting for a garden hose in the t. Housing cover, could one run and flush from that new fitting? Food for thought.
 
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