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Inherited 1958 Johnson 3hp outboard

M

MARK VENIA

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My grandfather's motor has been sitting for years.
I rebuilt the carb & ran it in an ultrasonic cleaner & rinsed out the gas tank but need to know several things :
1) gas/oil mixture
2) initial settings on high & low speed needles ;e.g., how many turns out to start adjusting
3) oil brand & viscosity to mix with gas
4) lower unit oil & viscosity
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would really like to keep this motor.
I remember going fishing when I was a kid with this motor on a 12 ft. aluminum boat.
 
Did you install a new water pump impeller ?----Looked through the hole in the flywheel to inspect coils?---Mixture is 24:1 on it.
 
One of my favorite Johnson model years, the red and white two tone with the cursive Johnson writing.
1) I prefer 16-1 oil ratio on those, any TCW-3 outboard oil is fine, 8 oz oil per gallon, these are bushing motors, more oil is fine.
2) 3/4 to 1 turn out on the high speed and 1 1/2 out on low speed, adjust as needed once warm, counterclockwise to richen
3) Any modern day marine lower unit oil is fine, fill from the bottom to the top vent, replace the lube washers used to be p/n 311598
4) as mentioned new impeller, super easy job and worth doing. J6C plugs .030 gap.
5) Check for spark, most of the time the coils are cracked and leaking to ground. Easy to rebuild the magneto on this one.
Great motor, with care, you could pass this motor to your grandson.
 
fitz73222 said:
One of my favorite Johnson model years, the red and white two tone with the cursive Johnson writing.
1) I prefer 16-1 oil ratio on those, any TCW-3 outboard oil is fine, 8 oz oil per gallon, these are bushing motors, more oil is fine.
2) 3/4 to 1 turn out on the high speed and 1 1/2 out on low speed, adjust as needed once warm, counterclockwise to richen
3) Any modern day marine lower unit oil is fine, fill from the bottom to the top vent, replace the lube washers used to be p/n 311598
4) as mentioned new impeller, super easy job and worth doing. J6C plugs .030 gap.
5) Check for spark, most of the time the coils are cracked and leaking to ground. Easy to rebuild the magneto on this one.
Great motor, with care, you could pass this motor to your grandson.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information, sounds like you have experience with this motor.

I have a couple of other questions if you don't mind.
1) I have a Seloc Manual that recommends 50:1. Is that because the new oils will handle this ratio?
2) Is the point gap .020"?
3) Does the Lower Unit & Gear Case need to be disassembled to change the impeller? (Lots of Gaskets)

The Seloc Manual covers so many years and models it's not really helpful on some of the specifics.
I really need a factory service manual specific for that motor. Very hard to find.
This motor hasn't been run for over 20 years.
I will be keeping this motor for my son.
 
Use 24:1 on that motor, if you want it to last another 50 years !.----No gaskets needed to do a water pump repair.-----Inspect coils.----Point gap is 0.020"
 
Once you flip it, you may have to jiggle it a little as you insert and rotate the driveshaft back and forth, it will go in with a little finesse. The pinion is just rolled of out of alignment, but really cant go anywhere. Make sure you drain the gearlube first or you'll be making a mess.
 
Everything is going well thanks to all the advice I've gotten here.
One last issue I have is the fuel line assembly & fuel shut off valve threads are damaged.
The fuel line assembly is no longer available.
Are there other sources?
 
Which parts do you need? Are the threads in the fuel tank damaged? The petcock, fuel line, and the fitting connecting to the carb? Pretty sure those parts interchanged with earlier and later models well into the 60's.
 
fitz73222 said:
Which parts do you need? Are the threads in the fuel tank damaged? The petcock, fuel line, and the fitting connecting to the carb? Pretty sure those parts interchanged with earlier and later models well into the 60's.
Click to expand...
The female cap on the fuel line that screws onto the male threads on the bottom of the fuel valve.

I'm trying to include a picture but I don't think it's possible.
 
Look into the ----aomci-----website.-----I believe there are many members in your area that would have those parts for a few $$$
 
Got the motor running & it sounds good in the garbage can with water.

Thanks for all the help getting this motor back in shape!!!

Any suggestions on winterizing?
 
Run it out of gas, dump the remaining tank fuel in the lawnmower, wipe her down with a rag and put in your son's closet for him to stare at till spring. Threaten to put it out in the snow if he doesn't get his homework done. Worked for me!
 
fitz73222 said:
Run it out of gas, dump the remaining tank fuel in the lawnmower, wipe her down with a rag and put in your son's closet for him to stare at till spring. Threaten to put it out in the snow if he doesn't get his homework done. Worked for me!
Click to expand...
I'm assuming no water drainage necessary?
 
Correct---Water drains out of the motor if stored in normal running position.-----But make sure there is no water in the gearcase that can freeze and crack the housing.
 
Now that the motor is running, I want to refurbish the 12 ft aluminum boat that the motor was on.

The transom has 3/4" wood that extends below the water's surface.

The seats are 1/2" wood.

Is there an alternative to wood to use on this project?

Or, if not, what type of wood and prepping/finishing would be best to use?

Thanks!!!!
 
I used 1/2" thick HDPE. Food cutting board as a transom replacement board on a 1972 Myers 12 ft. aluminum boat that I rebuilt. The HDPE cuts and drills with no problem. I purchased the cutting board from an online restaurant supply company.
 
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