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volvo penta 5.7 gsi hard start when warm

my2boys

New member
Hi i have volvo penta 5.7 gsi runs great starts right up idles fine plenty of power no hesitation .
after running it for a while . only way to start is to put neutral
and move throttle forward. it will start right up and idle fine .and take off with no issue . plugs, wires,cap ,fuel filter have been done . I'm thinking a leaking tbi injector causing it to flood a little? Any thoughts .Thanks
 
Hi i have volvo penta 5.7 gsi runs great starts right up idles fine plenty of power no hesitation .
after running it for a while . only way to start is to put neutral
and move throttle forward. it will start right up and idle fine .and take off with no issue . plugs, wires,cap ,fuel filter have been done . I'm thinking a leaking tbi injector causing it to flood a little? Any thoughts . Thanks

Based solely on your description (needing to shift into neutral), note that your neutral safety switch must be "closed" in order to activate the starter motor's solenoid circuit.
In other words, you need to be in neutral in order to start the engine!



.
 
It starts fine in neutral . only when warmed up do you have to move the throttle forward in neutral . to get started other wise it will just crank and not start. Thanks
 
You didn't post a serial number so I don't know which 5.7 gsi you have and that can make a difference. But I'm guessing MEFI because you say TBI. But you don't say what fuel pump setup you have. Might want to check fuel pressure.
If your worried about the injectors you can watch them while your having the problem. Be careful, it can be dangerous running the engine without the flame arrestor. If you want to get a good look at the spray pattern -- hook a timing light up to the big wire between the coil and distributor and shine that at the injectors while cranking and running.
Another thing is the ECM might be seeing the wrong temp, but you need a scan tool to check that.
 
its a 2000 fourwinns 248 vista .the motor being replaced in 2016. it has the duel fuel pumps .i checked the pressure this weekend and the low side read 15 psi. i checked the injectors and they seem to be fine no dripping after shutting down nice spray when running. . so maybe ecm is not seeing the correct temp. or someone was telling me vapor lock ? Thanks for any help.
 
Still don't know if you have a 2000 engine with a new long block or a 2016 engine. There might be a difference.

Your service manual will list the ohm's reading at various temperatures if you want to check that without a scan tool. Vapor lock on the fuel system I'm guessing you have is very rare unless the cooling water to it is plugged up. Might want to check water flow thru the fuel cell. What is the fuel high pressure?
 
Hi i have volvo penta 5.7 gsi runs great starts right up idles fine plenty of power no hesitation .
after running it for a while . only way to start is to put neutral
and move throttle forward. it will start right up and idle fine .and take off with no issue . plugs, wires,cap ,fuel filter have been done . I'm thinking a leaking tbi injector causing it to flood a little? Any thoughts .Thanks
I have this exact problem with my Volvo 5.7 SSI in my Rinker 232 Captiva. I also have changed the parts you listed in your original post but it still hard starts when hot. I too, have to switch out of neutral and apply throttle to start when hot. Did you every discover a remedy?
 
I also had a throttle "hunting" issue where it would idle high then vary about 400 rpm trying to find idle. We had the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve swapped recently and that fixed the idle issue, but now it doesn't like to start when warm unless I push the "neutral" button, and push the throttle lever forward to accelerate the engine throttle.
 
I had the same problem. I have chased it all over my local area. I took my boat to Las Vegas and a Volvo repair man. They checked it out and said they had a service bulletin on that. There is a filter in the fuel regulator that plugs up. It will cause too much pressure and cause the engine to flood.
They removed the filter, and my boat starts like it did when it was new. I have had this problem for 10 years.
 
I had the same problem. I have chased it all over my local area. I took my boat to Las Vegas and a Volvo repair man. They checked it out and said they had a service bulletin on that. There is a filter in the fuel regulator that plugs up. It will cause too much pressure and cause the engine to flood.
They removed the filter, and my boat starts like it did when it was new. I have had this problem for 10 years.
I have a brand new fuel pump (my service guy saw the same bulletin, apparently), but the issue remains...
 
Hi i have volvo penta 5.7 gsi runs great starts right up idles fine plenty of power no hesitation .
after running it for a while . only way to start is to put neutral
and move throttle forward. it will start right up and idle fine .and take off with no issue . plugs, wires,cap ,fuel filter have been done . I'm thinking a leaking tbi injector causing it to flood a little? Any thoughts .Thanks

Before shutting it off, let it idle for a couple of minutes- this will help by lowering the temperature of the block, especially after running it hard. In addition, you can ventilate the engine compartment before cranking (as is required) and the engine should start, in theory.

If those don't help, check the two wire temperature sensor by measuring the resistance- if it's higher than about 1000 Ohms when the engine is hot, replace it because high resistance corresponds to low temperature and when the ECM sees low resistance, it delivers too much fuel. If nothing else is wrong, cracking the throttle a bit causes more air to enter, correcting the rich condition.
 
You didn't post a serial number so I don't know which 5.7 gsi you have and that can make a difference. But I'm guessing MEFI because you say TBI. But you don't say what fuel pump setup you have. Might want to check fuel pressure.
If your worried about the injectors you can watch them while your having the problem. Be careful, it can be dangerous running the engine without the flame arrestor. If you want to get a good look at the spray pattern -- hook a timing light up to the big wire between the coil and distributor and shine that at the injectors while cranking and running.
Another thing is the ECM might be seeing the wrong temp, but you need a scan tool to check that.
MEFI has been used for multiport injection, too.

As I posted, measuring the resistance at the two wire sensor (one yellow, one black) is an easy way to find this problem. If it won't start when cold, high resistance is a likely cause.
 
I had the fuel pump changed twice. That is not the problem. It was the fuel regulator filter.
Thanks - I'm going after that now. I pulled the pressure regulator this morning and looked like some debris on the screen. I'm waiting on an e-clip to be delivered to replace the screen in the fuel pressure regulator. Fingers crossed...
 
Having same problem on 2013 Four Winns sl222 Volvo Penta 5.7-V8-C-B.
Starts fine cold, after warmed up, sporadically dies in idle and I hear it coming. The high pitch whine subsides or goes away completely, rpm's drop, starts sputtering/idling rough and dies. If I catch it in time I can put in throttle neutral, rev up the engine and get rpms back up and in about 5-20 seconds I hear the high pitch whine come back and acts normal again. If I don't catch it in time and it dies, I have to start in throttle neutral, pump throttle just right (often with backfires) until I can keep rpms up until that whine comes back and its normal again. This happens sporadically throughout the day and almost always restarting after 5m or an hour.
While moving I never loose power, have a rough engine, or dies. Only while idling and sometimes it goes hours without doing it.
Changed fuel filters twice, checked high and low pressures, cleaned throttle body, cleaned idle air control, have e-clip on fuel regulator, ran numerous bottles of Sea foam through it, and going to try some suggestions from above.
Was going to clean or change out fuel pump but will try some suggestions above.
Any help or other suggestions is much appreciated! ANY HELP! THANKS!
 
Having same problem on 2013 Four Winns sl222 Volvo Penta 5.7-V8-C-B.
Starts fine cold, after warmed up, sporadically dies in idle and I hear it coming. The high pitch whine subsides or goes away completely, rpm's drop, starts sputtering/idling rough and dies. If I catch it in time I can put in throttle neutral, rev up the engine and get rpms back up and in about 5-20 seconds I hear the high pitch whine come back and acts normal again. If I don't catch it in time and it dies, I have to start in throttle neutral, pump throttle just right (often with backfires) until I can keep rpms up until that whine comes back and its normal again. This happens sporadically throughout the day and almost always restarting after 5m or an hour.
While moving I never loose power, have a rough engine, or dies. Only while idling and sometimes it goes hours without doing it.
Changed fuel filters twice, checked high and low pressures, cleaned throttle body, cleaned idle air control, have e-clip on fuel regulator, ran numerous bottles of Sea foam through it, and going to try some suggestions from above.
Was going to clean or change out fuel pump but will try some suggestions above.
Any help or other suggestions is much appreciated! ANY HELP! THANKS!
So, you pump the throttle before cranking? That does absolutely nothing when the engine uses fuel injection. Next time, open the throttle slightly in neutral and see if it starts- if it does, check the resistance of the ECT (Engine Coolant Temoerature) sensor and if it's higher than 1000 Ohms, replace it. This sensor has two wires- one yellow, one black, and it sends temperature info to the ECM, so it can deliver the proper amount of fuel.
 
Happened to me - was a diesel and a smaller engine though. Hard to start and a little rough idling when warm.

Turned out to be a small hairline thin crack in the engine head by one of the cylinders. When the engine heated up, the crack opened up and the cylinder lost a little compression, making it hard to start up again. When cooled down it started just fine.

So head off and diagnosed by inspection - had to really clean up the head insides to identify the crack. If I did it again I think I would try to identify by measuring compression when cold vs compression when warm.
 
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