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97 Johnson 130 in SLOW/Limp mode

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pspagna

Member
Hey everyone,

I have a Johnson 130hp that is in slow mode. Compression is good. Fuel delivery is good. How do I tell what the issue is? I have seen that it could be power pack, stator, thermostats, or trigger. Is there a way to isolate and figure out what is causing it? Thanks
 
Have you installed a new impeller ?----Any trouble shooting done?----How / why do you think it might be the components you mentioned.-----Post the actual compression values.-----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" ( 1 cm ) on each lead ?
 
120 per cylinder on compression, new impeller, pumps water fine. You rev motor in neutral or in gear and around 2k rpm it engine pulses. When I looked that up it says it is in SLOW mode. One video I found the engine was doing the same thing as mine when revved and they said it was trigger. Just wanted to know if there is a way to test so that I don't just keep replacing different parts.
 
Well I feel the tell-tale stream and at best it gets luke warm. I don't have a temp gauge there is a light though on the dash and that does not seem to come on.
 
Tell tale water may not even circulate through the engine.-----I doubt it is overheating and triggering the S.L.O.W. mode.----You must do the trouble shooting on your motor !
 
Simple steps 1 at a time.----Use a timing light one cylinder at a time.---Out on the lake and observe flashing light when motor falters.----Running with a tested VRO or something else ?
 
Fuel pumps run on PRESSURE from crankcase compression.-----Perhaps there is an issue there.------Remember I can not see , touch or hear your motor.
 
pspagna said:
Well I feel the tell-tale stream and at best it gets luke warm. I don't have a temp gauge there is a light though on the dash and that does not seem to come on.
Click to expand...
The tell-tale doesn't give you an indication if the engine is over heating.

1) Does your warning horn work? When turning the key to the on position, do you hear a beep/chirp? If not, troubleshoot that first.
2) If your warning horn is working, test your temp switch (Part# 101 in the cylinder diagram). First, with the engine cold and turned off, use a multi-meter to measure conductivity between the lead on the white/blue sensor wire and a good ground. This should read infinity as the temp switch is a normally open circuit. When operating properly, the switch only closes and completes the circuit to ground when the temperature exceeds a certain point. If you read any resistance value with a cold engine (or at normal operating temp) then you have a bad sensor. If you need a replacement sensor, these are NLA and you'll have to get one on the used market.
3) Next, just to cover bases, with the key on connect a wire from the harness side of the white/blue wire and short that to ground. The water temp light on your System Check gauge/tach should light up. If not, you have wiring to troubleshoot.
4) Remove your thermostats and make sure they are clean and operating properly.
5) With the engine cover off and the engine not running, sweep your throttle lever from idle to full throttle and observe your throttle/timer base linkage to make sure everything is moving properly to give you the necessary timing advance.
 
kevinj said:
The tell-tale doesn't give you an indication if the engine is over heating.

1) Does your warning horn work? When turning the key to the on position, do you hear a beep/chirp? If not, troubleshoot that first.
2) If your warning horn is working, test your temp switch (Part# 101 in the cylinder diagram). First, with the engine cold and turned off, use a multi-meter to measure conductivity between the lead on the white/blue sensor wire and a good ground. This should read infinity as the temp switch is a normally open circuit. When operating properly, the switch only closes and completes the circuit to ground when the temperature exceeds a certain point. If you read any resistance value with a cold engine (or at normal operating temp) then you have a bad sensor. If you need a replacement sensor, these are NLA and you'll have to get one on the used market.
3) Next, just to cover bases, with the key on connect a wire from the harness side of the white/blue wire and short that to ground. The water temp light on your System Check gauge/tach should light up. If not, you have wiring to troubleshoot.
4) Remove your thermostats and make sure they are clean and operating properly.
5) With the engine cover off and the engine not running, sweep your throttle lever from idle to full throttle and observe your throttle/timer base linkage to make sure everything is moving properly to give you the necessary timing advance.
Click to expand...
1) No I hear no horn. Not sure if it even has one
2) My temp switches have no barrel disconnects. Not sure if previous person messed with these but they are butt connected. Should I just cut and re do connections?
3) I will try this.
4) I just ordered new thermostats and will be putting them in. Mine are corroded a bit
5) Yes it moves as it should.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Starting in about 1962 , Johnson / Evinrude had overheat warning lights on electric start models.---------Starting in 1972 they went to a warning horn in the control box.----On some installations there is warning horn loose on the wiring under the console.-----Find it and test it.
 
pspagna said:
1) No I hear no horn. Not sure if it even has one
2) My temp switches have no barrel disconnects. Not sure if previous person messed with these but they are butt connected. Should I just cut and re do connections?
3) I will try this.
4) I just ordered new thermostats and will be putting them in. Mine are corroded a bit
5) Yes it moves as it should.

Thanks for all the help!
Click to expand...
1) Get the warning horn working.
2) Someone has been cobbling wires. It's best if these are weather tight connections, but at minimum they need to be removeable. If the wires are goofy, I'd also make sure you have the correct temp sensors on each side. If the port temp switch is not correct, the system could be seeing this as a temperature fault and engaging SLOW.
 
Motor overheat horns have been standard in the factory control box on a motor like yours.----Yes , since 1972 models.-----Picture of the control box in your boat ?
 
pspagna said:
Should there be a separate warning horn from the regular navigation horn?
Click to expand...
Yes, it will be a little doo-dad that looks like this --> BRP Warning Horn You should have a connector/wires for it either in your control box of as part of the engine wiring harness leading to the control box/helm. The horn is supposed to chirp when you turn the key on to confirm operation, then there are a series of sounds from constant sound, beep every other second, or every 20-40 seconds that indicate various issues. The one in your case would be a constant alarm sound when the engine overheats.
 
OK motor is not overheating but seems to be running on only 2 cylinders. Tested the coil packs and 2 seem bad so I am going to replace those and see. Is there anyway to replace the boots on the coil wires without replacing the whole power pack? Tried looking online but can't find replacement boots. Thanks
 
Ok replaced 2 coil packs, I believe running on all cylinders but still in SLOW mode when you rev above 3k. Motor acts like it hit rev limiter. Is there a way to test power pack before buying one of those? What should I test next, trying not to replace every part just the bad ones. Thanks
 
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