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Looking for tips pulling a VP Gen V engine out of boat

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SoFLBoater

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Hello everyone, I'm a new to boating, I need a little guidance, I have a 2018 Regal 2000 ESX with a VP 4.3....this is the Gen V engine. Engine was running fine, however I let it sit for 8 months, and somehow the engine got seized due to water seepage into one of the cylinders. I have tried the traditional methods of using transmission fluid and acetone to free it up to no avail. So I had to resort to pulling the heads, here's where it got interesting, I found a clump of sand on top of one of the pistons, which was heavily pitted. That's when I knew I had to pull the engine, I was hoping for some guidance on the disconnect and lifting it. I just need some helpful details. for example, the steering mech, is there anything i need to disconnect on it or is a self contained unit? Also, is there anything in the back of the engine that needs to be disconnected? I know there is water line and grounding cable.....anything else?
Lastly, the mounts, from what I gathered, are tricky, I need to remove the nuts from the back mounts but pull the whole front mount assy in the front....which means taking the bolts out of the stringers.....does this still hold true for the newer VP engines? Again, any helpful hints is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance....
 
Once the drive is removed it's disconnect anything that attaches it to the hull. You have pretty much listed all that.

Many remove the bolts holding the front mounts to stringers, but I just remove the nut on top and leave the mount. In either case have to use alignment bar once motor is reinstalled
 
AllDodge said:
Once the drive is removed it's disconnect anything that attaches it to the hull. You have pretty much listed all that.

Many remove the bolts holding the front mounts to stringers, but I just remove the nut on top and leave the mount. In either case have to use alignment bar once motor is reinstalled
Click to expand...
Thanks for the word of confidence, the only unknown for me is once everything is disconnect does the engine come out straight up, or do I need to pull it forward to detach it from the transom?
 
SoFLBoater said:
Thanks for the word of confidence, the only unknown for me is once everything is disconnect does the engine come out straight up, or do I need to pull it forward to detach it from the transom?
Click to expand...
Depends on the engine compartment, seating and how far back it is from the back of the seats. Hopefully, they designed the boat so removing the engine isn't impossible.

If it looks like the photo below, I don't think it will be too bad- the engine cover-rear seat will need to be removed, as well as the dark side panels next to the exhaust manifolds.

Take a lot of closeups of every operation, bag parts and label the bags clearly. The engine will have a plug at the rear for the main harness and the mounts for the engine can be left on the stringers- remove the locking nuts & stainless keepers and DO NOT mix anything from one side to the other.

Post photos if YOUR engine before removal, during and as you go. If you know someone who has an engine stand, it will be much easier if you can use it. If you have a way to use a chain hoist, electric winch or gantry crane for removing the engine, that will be good, too. You can also build a wooden frame for lifting it with a chain hoist, if you want to do it without breaking the bank.

Did you need to go through an area with a sand bar or shallow water?
 

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jimn said:
Depends on the engine compartment, seating and how far back it is from the back of the seats. Hopefully, they designed the boat so removing the engine isn't impossible.

If it looks like the photo below, I don't think it will be too bad- the engine cover-rear seat will need to be removed, as well as the dark side panels next to the exhaust manifolds.

Take a lot of closeups of every operation, bag parts and label the bags clearly. The engine will have a plug at the rear for the main harness and the mounts for the engine can be left on the stringers- remove the locking nuts & stainless keepers and DO NOT mix anything from one side to the other.

Post photos if YOUR engine before removal, during and as you go. If you know someone who has an engine stand, it will be much easier if you can use it. If you have a way to use a chain hoist, electric winch or gantry crane for removing the engine, that will be good, too. You can also build a wooden frame for lifting it with a chain hoist, if you want to do it without breaking the bank.

Did you need to go through an area with a sand bar or shallow water?
Click to expand...
Thanks a bunch for the tips....I can post a picture so you can see the engine in the bay, I think it has enough room to come straight up. I don't think I can undo the back mount near the transom from the stringer...but I have access to take the top nut off and free up the engine. I understand it's very critical to line up the engine once you install it.
I also secured some help with the removal, the plan to take it to a friend's business who has a forklift.
The sand in the cylinder still remains a mystery to me......I'm no boat expert, but I used to be a mechanic in my youth. I have no idea how sand can get inside a combustion chamber, I asked around, and no one seems to know either.

PS: the engine pic you posted is exactly like my engine. I think the entire engine harness has maybe 2 or 3 points of contact in the back, disconnecting those will free up the wiring harness and the wiring can stay with the engine.
I also found 2 hydraulic lines that connect to the steering system, those need to be disconnected as well. Only other thing is battery cable and ground wire....need to see where is the best place to disconnect the red positive cable at the starter or the battery.
Here's a pic of my partially disassembled engine.
 

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SoFLBoater said:
Thanks a bunch for the tips....I can post a picture so you can see the engine in the bay, I think it has enough room to come straight up. I don't think I can undo the back mount near the transom from the stringer...but I have access to take the top nut off and free up the engine. I understand it's very critical to line up the engine once you install it.
I also secured some help with the removal, the plan to take it to a friend's business who has a forklift.
The sand in the cylinder still remains a mystery to me......I'm no boat expert, but I used to be a mechanic in my youth. I have no idea how sand can get inside a combustion chamber, I asked around, and no one seems to know either.

PS: the engine pic you posted is exactly like my engine. I think the entire engine harness has maybe 2 or 3 points of contact in the back, disconnecting those will free up the wiring harness and the wiring can stay with the engine.
I also found 2 hydraulic lines that connect to the steering system, those need to be disconnected as well. Only other thing is battery cable and ground wire....need to see where is the best place to disconnect the red positive cable at the starter or the battery.
Here's a pic of my partially disassembled engine.
Click to expand...
The alignment will have more play if the whole mount comes out- if the nut is removed, the play is limited by the hole size be stud.

An alignment tool is available but you may be able to rent one. A yoke from a sterndrive would work too, as long as it's known to be straight.
 
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