The hull and all bulkhead fittings have been checked and do not leak. Water can get into the bilge by rainwater and wash down water only. I have run the pumps any time I see any water in the bilge. The float switch works very well and removes the water down to perhaps a cup or 2. I run the...
Are you aware of any different starters available on the market that might be designed to better deal with this issue?
I have been using high quality Sierra starters for marine use. They have a very tight nosecone area that tries to cut down the exposure to water intrusion. Any that have...
Your suggestion for a fan is a great idea. I will get something to address that.
Yes, I have a factory part # and there are several listed on eBay
They look like flat steel to block off the front of the flywheel to bell housing area Jim
Yes, Salt Water. Yes I use shore power. I use a high amperage drop light in the bilge to try to control condensation. Maybe I should consider a fan. Good idea.
I spray WD-40 or a heavy spray lithium grease down a 1/8 in ID hose while engaging the starter, in order to move the bendix in and...
The starters have been lubed prior to installation. The last starter installed had a hole drilled in the nose cone and a rubber hose glued into it so that I could spray the shaft-bendix with lube after each outing, lasted 6 mos. The boat is in a slip year-round. Bilge auto switch works perfect...
I have had to replace 3 starters in 1 year in my 2000 Seaswirl Striper. Penta STX outdrive 5.7L V8 Chev Vortec engine. The starters all have rusted between the bendix and the shaft. They will spin but not engage the flywheel. It appears that the cover between the engine and the bell housing is...
I too have had to replace multiple starters due to rust. Mine seize between the starter bendix and the shaft. AND i keep the bilge as dry as possible. Check to see if there is a cover between the engine and the bell housing that will keep most of the water from splashing onto the starter. My...