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1973 Evinrude Norseman 40HP No Spark

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Bowhntr25

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Hello all, I purchased a 1973 Evrinrude Norseman 40hp that the previous owner said ran, I wasn't able to check it while purchasing it, and now it won't start. In the beginning the electric start did nothing, after diving into it I found that the electric start was wired wrong, so I fixed the wiring. The neutral safety switch doesn't work, and I want to check that I can get it to start before purchasing a new one. I manually grounded the safety switch wire which came from the solenoid, directly to ground. The motor now cranks nicely, but I'm not getting any spark. I disconnected the kill wire, and that still doesn't show any spark. Is me bypassing the neutral safety switch, causing the spark to get killed? Is the next option diving under the flywheel to check coils, etc.? Thanks for all the help
 
Neutral safety affects the starter, not the ignition, Pop the flywheel, look for cracked coils, bad wiring, dirty points, bad condensers. Cheap to rebuild, no amazon garbage ignition components, order from this website. Check to see if waterpump impellers are still available, I seem to remember either 1973 or 1974 had issues with availability.
 
fitz73222 said:
Neutral safety affects the starter, not the ignition, Pop the flywheel, look for cracked coils, bad wiring, dirty points, bad condensers. Cheap to rebuild, no amazon garbage ignition components, order from this website. Check to see if waterpump impellers are still available, I seem to remember either 1973 or 1974 had issues with availability.
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Thank you, I’ll pop the flywheel and give it a look. How do I know if the wiring, points, or condensers are bad? Would I replace those also or do they just need to be cleaned or adjusted? Thanks for the heads up on not buying cheap Amazon stuff.
 
It’s a 50+ year old motor. It’s not worth trying to test condensers, they’re cheap. You can buy an entire ignition set, (coils, points, condensers),for $100.
If the motor has good compression & gearcase, that’s what I would do. Rather than maybe have to pull it apart again in a couple of years.
I’ve found the Sierra brands are very good quality if OEM is NLA.
Buy the tuneup kit, vs individual points/condensers, the kit is only $30
 
I’ve ordered a full new ignition for less than $100, I’m planning on popping it open Sunday. I’ll send some picutres of what it looks like under the cover. Thank you all
 
Update: I used a flywheel puller threaded into the 3 holes on top, while tightening it, one bolt broke off in the hole, and the 2 others snapped off high enough to take them back out. What am I supposed to do now? Using the puller didn't work.
 
Obviously a cheap puller.
If the bolts threaded in finger tight, it will come out with just a little persuasion. A left hand drill bit & an EZ Out maybe.
 
Droid said:
Obviously a cheap puller.
If the bolts threaded in finger tight, it will come out with just a little persuasion. A left hand drill bit & an EZ Out maybe.
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Sounds good, I'll give it another try. Is the flywheel on cross threaded maybe? I assumed it was normal threaded because of the direction the flywheel spins, but maybe I'm wrong. Any tips for popping the flywheel off easier?
 
Generally, you don’t keep torquing those bolts til the wheel pops off. Turn them down to the thickness of the flywheel, create some good tension by turning the puller Center wheel. Give the top of the Center bolt a sharp whack…I’ve never had the flywheel not pop.
The flywheel is not mechanically secured to the crankshaft, it’s only a taper fit.
Corrosion, friction hold it in place. Tension, vibration break that bond.
 
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