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Trying to identify 2000 Johnson/Suzuki 50 HP (J50PLSIB)

G

Garrett Birkhoff

New member
Hey all, I am tearing my hair out trying to get parts and a manual for the outboard we have. It is a Johnson 50 HP four-stroke, supposedly made September 2000. The model number on the plate is J50PLSIB -- but I see this referred to occasionally as a 2-stroke, and I also think the motor may have been made by Suzuki. I'm trying to find a new rectifier for it, but all the ones for related boats (Johnson or Suzuki) are different (they are hexagonal; this is rectangular). It might have been made for either the US or Canadian market originally. Not being able to find an authoritative parts listing is driving me crazy. Any ideas?
 
It is a 2 stroke , a 2001 model.---and it is NOT a Suzuki.----Not even close.----Ignore the B when looking up parts.-----Your location?
 
I'm in Ontario, but here's the thing.... there's an external oil tank, I've been putting straight gas in it for 10 years, so I really think it's a four stroke. Could it be that someone put the motor in a different shell?
J50 Rectifier side.jpg
 
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Thanks so much for this! I just inherited this boat with no manuals or anything. I actually didn't know they did separate oil back then. Are there any sources where I could learn about how to test the charging system on this one? It's hard for me to see what comes out of that rectifier, though it looks like the yellow wires are coming from the stator....
 
Oil tank and oil injection started around 1984 on outboards.----Read some books / manuals on outboard operation and maintenance.----Many folks learn the hard way about outboards.----Via an empty wallet.----Install a new impeller,----Test operation of overheat warning horn.
 
Garrett Birkhoff said:
I'm in Ontario, but here's the thing.... there's an external oil tank, I've been putting straight gas in it for 10 years, so I really think it's a four stroke. Could it be that someone put the motor in a different shell?
Click to expand...
Is there any oil left in the remote tank? 10 years of running should surely have used up all the oil in the tank. Unless a previous owner bypassed the VRO in which case you should have been running fuel pre-mixed with TCW3 oil at 50:1 ratio. That engine should have had both No Oil and Low Oil alarms for the oil tank, so if you'd had oil in there for 10 years and it never went down I'd say the VRO has likely been bypassed and somehow your engine has survived for the last 10 years without any oil lubrication.

The CDI Electronics Troubleshooting Guide has all the tests you need to verify your ignition system. There are 2 really easy tests you can do as well: #1 If your tach works, then your rectifier is likely working. #2 If your battery voltage (at the posts) measures 13.6 volt to 14.2volt when the engine is running, then your rectifier is working.
 
kevinj said:
Is there any oil left in the remote tank? 10 years of running should surely have used up all the oil in the tank. Unless a previous owner bypassed the VRO in which case you should have been running fuel pre-mixed with TCW3 oil at 50:1 ratio. That engine should have had both No Oil and Low Oil alarms for the oil tank, so if you'd had oil in there for 10 years and it never went down I'd say the VRO has likely been bypassed and somehow your engine has survived for the last 10 years without any oil lubrication.

The CDI Electronics Troubleshooting Guide has all the tests you need to verify your ignition system. There are 2 really easy tests you can do as well: #1 If your tach works, then your rectifier is likely working. #2 If your battery voltage (at the posts) measures 13.6 volt to 14.2volt when the engine is running, then your rectifier is working.
Click to expand...
Oh, it was someone else's boat, they took care of it, I just added gas when I used it. It's been well maintained. The rectifier is bad -- no change in the voltage at the battery posts when the engine is running, stator was fine. So I'm going to put a new one in. Should I use dialectric grease where the rectifier sits?
 
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