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00' BF115A >starts, runs, dies..

T

TumpRnR

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2000 Honda BF115A
BZBD-1100010

Compression:
Cyl 1=215psi
Cyl 2=211psi
Cyl 3=212psi
Cyl 4=215psi

Mid fishing trip was idling fine then just died. Started right back up but would only run for 20-30 seconds then die. No rough idle… Got towed in and parked it.

Trouble is same running in tank. Cold start… sometimes 2-3 minutes run time but mostly 20-30 seconds.

Pulled codes and found “3” (MAP), and “24” (overheat 1). I believe these are old codes as I cleared them and have not seen them again.

Checked tank vent, replaced all fuel filters, cleaned screens/hoses. No water or debris found. Cleaned VST and IAC, PCV checked cleaned.

Fuel pressure was in spec (46psi), but not holding static pressure. Injectors test at ~14ohms (should be 11.1-12.3?) (Note: new injectors test at the same ~14ohms)

Replaced fuel pump, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator.

Trouble found, trouble fixed! New fuel pump fixed static FP issue. Ran for about 7 minutes and back to same issue. Starts and idles smooth for 30ish seconds and cuts like someone just turned it off. No sputter, no change in rpm, no fp drop, just “off”.


Moving on to ignition system…

New spark plugs.

Ignition(pri/sec) and pulser coils resistance tests in spec.

I have a downloaded copy of the shop manual. Flow charts are fun… Thought I had it figured out with fuel system issue, but guess not. Could use a little nudge to keep at it. Lol
 
Well, you've done alot!

Answered each of my questions as I read down the list you gave.

The injector ohm discrepency could be the fault of the manual you're using. I don't know. I have never worked on a 115A and don't have SI

Being a 2000 model, I guess that leaves out using the Dr. H. I would really like to see pulse width at injectors during the shut down. I would try my cheap, little Harbor Freight noid light set to see pulses but it doesn't work on everything

Being COP coils, not sure how hard it would be to try a timing light on that one

You might try verifying supply voltage to ignition coils and injectors during cut off to see if anything goes suddenly missing.

I would definitely be looking at emergency stop circuit and ignition switch for something like this. Vibration is a bee-atch.

I'll be following and offer any bright ideas I have no matter how much laughter they may evoke.

I think if you keep digging, you'll soon get it figured out

Good luck.
 
Thanks!
I will go through the stop circuit as you suggest, I do know that it’s “extra” in ways. Original motor was an OMC I presume, cause my controls are a mix. OMC or generic key switch and shifter. The neutral safety switch is wired from shifter to switch and I’m guessing this is redundant to the switch on motor. Took me a while to figure out how to clear codes without the Honda kill switch. Lol I have not messed with this setup since it has worked for the 8 years I’ve been running it. Test light to injector never looses voltage, but not testing pulse. Hard for me to figure... does pulse stop cause engine stops or engine stop cause pulse stops. Not that I'm leaning towards lack of pulse, but makes me need to read more about testing injector pulse the cheap way. lol


Bob, The VST has been updated. I do not remember seeing that grommet (part 50) during initial tear down, or the 3 other times I've disassembled to make sure everything is "right". Will pull it again this week. Just looked at pics I took the first time I pulled the pump... no grommet. Possible it's laying on the ground. lol Assume it's necessary and will order one.
 
NSDON said:
What did the old plugs look like?

Thermostat?

Just checking normal things.
Click to expand...
Black.

Replaced a failing thermostat about 5 years ago to clear an intermittent overheat alarm. No issues or alarm since.
 

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NSDON said:
Looks like too much fuel- for some reason.
Click to expand...
Yeah, was thinking maybe the failing check valve in the fp might have something to do with it, but really have no idea. I was happy to at least get fuel pressure to hold once the pump shut off. Wondering how long that was a problem..
 
If you haven't already, verify the integrity of the vacuum line to the FPR. If it's cracked or split or plugged for some reason, you'll get maximum pressure all the time.
Item 33


I've seen people put old parrs in the new box and return for a refund scam. Make sure that you didn't get stuck with their old part in that new box. Plus, I've seen new parts fail immediately.
NEW=Never Ever Worked
 
jgmo said:
OH WOW! That is RICH!

Those are the old plugs I ypresume?

Have you looked at the new ones yet to see if they are going that way?

I was thinking FPR but you changed that.
I wonder if the IAC is opening. Pull it and check the screen.
23 in link

Click to expand...
Yes, old plugs. Just pulled plugs 1&3 and clean as a whistle so far. Very low hours.. lol

Pulled the IAC when going through filters, but don't remember that screen specifically. Shot everything with cleaner and comp air. Will pull it and check again. FPR was on list of pressure issues, but results are same with old and new one. Will also retest the FPR (vacuum line) now that fuel pressure is "normal".

Appreciate the input from all. Things to check and clues that I dismissed as irrelevant. Alleviating some frustration for sure.
 
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