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1982 Evinrude 15 hp

D

DrCoxie

Contributing Member
So as the title says I have an engine which now doesn't want to start after previously doing so. It has compression, spark and a cleaned carb and a recently rebuilt fuel pump, the fuel system has no airleaks. It has always had trouble with the idle and was low on power under load too so I rebuilt the fuel pump and cleaned the carb after which it still didn't want to idle without some throttle but it started a bit easier when it got warm. I let it get cold and when i then tried to start it again to check about the mix adjustment it wouldn't start anymore, even with starting fluid. I even rechecked the spark again and everything was fine there, I then even cut the stop button because I thought that might be it (I used it last to turn the engine off) but even with the wires definitely not touching it wont start and I've turned the mix screw back, tried the choke and all that but it doesn't even make a sound like it wanted to start. Feels like I fix one thing and two others stop working. I've been pondering getting all new powerhead seals for it in case it leaks and check the butterfly valves out because that's all I can think off at this point but what I don't get is that it at least ran and started after the fuel pump rebuild and started well too and now it just seems like it's completly dead just an hour later, what could that be? I also have a few other questions:

Questions:
1.Could the bad idle be caused by bad plugs? because if you can believe it they sent me a cam belt for a BMW instead of my sparkpluggs so I haven't been able to install those.
2. I have previously removed the thermostat bcs it was completely crusted shut and freed up the water passages, I put it back together without a thermostat, I know this will make it run at less than ideal temps but is there any other reason not to?
3. Could the butterly valves be the reason for the bad idle? if they aren't completely tight?
4. I've been also told the crankshaft seals could have gone bad, would that mean removing the covers on either side of the powerhead and installing new caskets or does that involve taking the whole powerhead appart and the crank out?
 
It has " compression " means very little.-----What are those numbers tested with a good gauge.----Checked the flywheel key ?----Does the spark jump a gap of 3/8" on a testing device ?----By " butterfly valves " are you referring to the reed valves ?-----And is the choke lever installed properly.-----On more than one occasion it has been upside down.
 
racerone said:
It has " compression " means very little.-----What are those numbers tested with a good gauge.----Checked the flywheel key ?----Does the spark jump a gap of 3/8" on a testing device ?----By " butterfly valves " are you referring to the reed valves ?-----And is the choke lever installed properly.-----On more than one occasion it has been upside down.
Click to expand...

It means all it has to mean, it has good enough compression which has been confirmed by a mechanic.
I haven't checked the flywheel key because that would mean torquing the flywheel down after taking it off and I've tried to stay away from taking stuff off that requires a torque wrench
By butterflyvalves I mean the reedvalves yes.
Choke lever I didnt take off the carb to begin with so there is nothing wrong with that.
 
Last edited:
racerone said:
Good luck with the project then.
Click to expand...
Figured out I flooded the engine with the primer bulb so thats probably why it wouldnt start so now its just the issue of the idling badly, thanks for the flywheel key tip, I will take it off and have a look. Should I be able to see it as soon as the flywheel comes off you think?
 
DrCoxie said:
It means all it has to mean, it has good enough compression which has been confirmed by a mechanic.
Choke lever I didnt take off the carb to begin with so there is nothing wrong with that.
Click to expand...

DrCoxie, if you're looking for help on this forum, the more information you're able to provide us with, the more likely you're going to get accurate answers from the experienced individuals here.
Like racerone references, what are the compression numbers, taken with a good gauge, for each cylinder? Someone telling you it has good compression doesn't really mean much (no offense).

I am not sure how you took the carb off to clean it, without taking off the choke lever (referring to the plastic choke lever that you pull at the front of the motor when you're cold starting)???
Make sure you clean out all the passages cleaned (remove welch plugs and clean) use a small single strand wire to clean out the highspeed jet, etc... Many times the carb gets 'cleaned' multiple times with these being overlooked and they end up being the culprit of the problem.

Check your spark with a spark gap tester like a Lisle 50850; will it jump a 3/8" gap with a nice blue crisp spark like racerone suggests?
Check your spark plugs, are they the correct plugs? with the correct gap? Are they fouled?
Make sure you have the correct wires from the coils running to the correct cylinders.

Follow Joe Reeves needle setting procedures:
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
DrCoxie said:
It means all it has to mean, it has good enough compression which has been confirmed by a mechanic. I haven't checked the flywheel key because that would mean torquing the flywheel down after taking it off and I've tried to stay away from taking stuff off that requires a torque wrench. By butterflyvalves I mean the reed valves yes. Choke lever I didnt take off the carb to begin with so there is nothing wrong with that.
Click to expand...

With a clean reworked carburetor (Post #1) and a rebuilt fuel pump, you managed to flood the engine with the fuel primer bulb? If the carburetor and fuel pump were as they should be, a person could stand on the fuel primer bulb without causing a flooding condition. And here, in Post #5, you admit that you've not had the carburetor off!

In your previous post which you've apparently abandoned, you ignored my advice and branched off into a tirade that a stop button was to blame. You come across as a very egoistical person with a snide manner of indirectly insulting technicians in the trade with 30 or 40 years of experience each... and now, here, in this new post, you brush off another technician with many years in the trade due to a compression psi reading request which you deem unneeded, then ramble on with something about avoiding anything that requires a torque wrench.

Frankly, I don't think you have a engine and are just someone yanking our chain... but no matter, as I will personally avoid all future posts of yours even on other sites as soon as I recognize your style under any other screen name. However on the off chance, should you actually have a engine... please run, don't walk to the nearest dealership with it as obviously none of us will be able to help you with it as we have not yet learned to mechanically repair anything without the dismantling and assembly procedure.
 
joereeves said:
With a clean reworked carburetor (Post #1) and a rebuilt fuel pump, you managed to flood the engine with the fuel primer bulb? If the carburetor and fuel pump were as they should be, a person could stand on the fuel primer bulb without causing a flooding condition. And here, in Post #5, you admit that you've not had the carburetor off!

In your previous post which you've apparently abandoned, you ignored my advice and branched off into a tirade that a stop button was to blame. You come across as a very egoistical person with a snide manner of indirectly insulting technicians in the trade with 30 or 40 years of experience each... and now, here, in this new post, you brush off another technician with many years in the trade due to a compression psi reading request which you deem unneeded, then ramble on with something about avoiding anything that requires a torque wrench.

Frankly, I don't think you have a engine and are just someone yanking our chain... but no matter, as I will personally avoid all future posts of yours even on other sites as soon as I recognize your style under any other screen name. However on the off chance, should you actually have a engine... please run, don't walk to the nearest dealership with it as obviously none of us will be able to help you with it as we have not yet learned to mechanically repair anything without the dismantling and assembly procedure.
Click to expand...

Reworked, not rebuilt as in just cleaned out and I think I flooded the engine with it because I did press it a lot bcs it didnt go as hard as I wanted it to and after that it refused to even stutter. The post #5 is a grammatical missunderstanding, i've had the carb off, what I said was I hadn't had the choke lever off the carb, as in the butterfly mechanism hasn't been off the carb but the carb has come off the engine.

You are incorrect about all that, I'm tired because I'm working on an engine given to me by my dad who had a boat mechanic check if it's worth repairing and he said that yes the compression is good and it starts. I've been trying to fix this thing for a year now, I've already repaired the lower unit and did all but completely rebuild it, I've had the leg off at least 6 seperate times and I ordered a bearing carrier from some sketchy site in France because I live in Europe and apparently evinrude parts aren't easy to come by. I've put a lot of money into this and I've basically learned about engine repair from videos and reading online. So I apologize if I come off as rude, I'm just at the end of my rope with this thing and yes I feel some misdirected anger at having to reiterate my issue and go over troubleshooting steps over and over again when I've already done them. I understand that it's necessary in order for someone to get caught up and help me but in the moment I'm just tired as **** of this engine that a year ago was suppesdly fin, just needs a new bearing carrier and then my dad tries to help and drills out the top hole of the bearincarrier hole and drills into the casing ****ing the top bolthole up... sorry for the tangent but anyway that's my excuse, sorry.
 
JohnnyGuy said:
DrCoxie, if you're looking for help on this forum, the more information you're able to provide us with, the more likely you're going to get accurate answers from the experienced individuals here.
Like racerone references, what are the compression numbers, taken with a good gauge, for each cylinder? Someone telling you it has good compression doesn't really mean much (no offense).

I am not sure how you took the carb off to clean it, without taking off the choke lever (referring to the plastic choke lever that you pull at the front of the motor when you're cold starting)???
Make sure you clean out all the passages cleaned (remove welch plugs and clean) use a small single strand wire to clean out the highspeed jet, etc... Many times the carb gets 'cleaned' multiple times with these being overlooked and they end up being the culprit of the problem.

Check your spark with a spark gap tester like a Lisle 50850; will it jump a 3/8" gap with a nice blue crisp spark like racerone suggests?
Check your spark plugs, are they the correct plugs? with the correct gap? Are they fouled?
Make sure you have the correct wires from the coils running to the correct cylinders.

Follow Joe Reeves needle setting procedures:
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Click to expand...

JohnnyGuy said:
DrCoxie, if you're looking for help on this forum, the more information you're able to provide us with, the more likely you're going to get accurate answers from the experienced individuals here.
Like racerone references, what are the compression numbers, taken with a good gauge, for each cylinder? Someone telling you it has good compression doesn't really mean much (no offense).

I am not sure how you took the carb off to clean it, without taking off the choke lever (referring to the plastic choke lever that you pull at the front of the motor when you're cold starting)???
Make sure you clean out all the passages cleaned (remove welch plugs and clean) use a small single strand wire to clean out the highspeed jet, etc... Many times the carb gets 'cleaned' multiple times with these being overlooked and they end up being the culprit of the problem.

Check your spark with a spark gap tester like a Lisle 50850; will it jump a 3/8" gap with a nice blue crisp spark like racerone suggests?
Check your spark plugs, are they the correct plugs? with the correct gap? Are they fouled?
Make sure you have the correct wires from the coils running to the correct cylinders.

Follow Joe Reeves needle setting procedures:
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Click to expand...

I tested the spark with one of those light you clip in between the plug and the spark lead and that showed that there was spark, idk, does the brightness indikate anything? Is a spark gap test the only viable thing?
What's a good compression gague? I can get one for 20 bucks would that be ok?
I took the low speed jet out of the carb and sprayed into it with carb cleaner, stuff came out of the three little holes and everything else looked clean=S btw this carb only has a low speed jet as far as I know.
How do i rexognize a fouled plug?
 
You should NOT be able to flood it by pumping the primer ball. Rebuild the carb with a good kit that includes the float. There is a second jet inside the float bowl that must be clean. Those usually have cork floats that go bad over time. A spark gap tester is the best way to check spark.
 
UPDATE

I want to thank everyone in the thread who posted, it helped me in one way or another and I apologize to those offended. Here is where I am at with the engine:

I'm an idiot so I switched the spark leads around and thats why it didn't start, I didn't flood the engine so the carb seems to be fine.
In regards to the carb adjustment I couldn't make the procedure provided work, it never picked up revs when I turned the adjustment screw in so what I went with was to run it at as high a throttle as it will let me in neutral and then adjusted the carb to were it ran the best, this adjustment worked as well as any at idle speeds and it fired up on the first half strength puil on the starter roap so do you think that's fine or does that indicate some kind of other issue?
I looked at the plugs more throughly and it seems they are not fouled but I've ordered new ones anyway just to be sure.
I have to run the engine on the water at true WOT and see if there are any issues but for now it seems to run ok.

The only real issue I seem to have right now is that it doesn't want to idle without at least a little throttle (it idles only when the throttle roller hits the arrow on the plate that sticks out under the flywheel. Is that the way it's supposed to be or is there still some issue hiding?
 
Have you adjusted the idle with the Idle Adjustment knob on the side of the motor's lower cowling?


CMOS
 
CMOS said:
Have you adjusted the idle with the Idle Adjustment knob on the side of the motor's lower cowling?


CMOS
Click to expand...

It needs replacing but even with it turned in all the way it just barely keeps the engine alive so it idles really high. I'll update when the new sparkpluggs arrive, see if that makes a difference.
 
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