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1988 Bayliner OMC Cobra Ford 2.3l

mbbrooks

New member
I have a 88 bayliner ford 2.3l and the boat runs like a top when its cold, it starts almost immediately. Once its running for about 15-25 mins on plane and everything it will start bogging down like it not getting fuel or losing power and then it will keep losing power until it just dies and wont restart until it cools off then will do the same thing.

Kind of sounds like this when bogging but more profound:

I have tried any and everything you can think of and its been to 3 mechanics.

- Carb rebuilt 3 times and the last time was professionally redone and bench tested
- New distributor, points, and wires
- Tested 4 different coils with internal and external resistor (I bypassed the resistor wire when I put the internal resistor on there)
- Compression is equal across the board I think the guage was messed up when I did it but there are no signs of low compression no burning oil or anything like that
- Rewired almost everything at the engine (main harness, all the connections grounds etc.) battery cables and everything like that
- Alternator is charging at 14v and 51 amps and coil gets appropriate voltage depending on which coil 12v or 14v
- Tried unplugged the esa from negative coil though I have not completely unplugged that yet
- I always have spark when the boat dies with spark tester
- I can always see fuel going into the carb when giving throttle when the boat dies
- Tried everything with fuel the vent flows clean tried taking the gas cap or vent line at the tank off in case of pulling vacuum, there is no anti siphon just a fitting thats wide open I just put a clear fuel filter on there which Im going to test when it quits to actually see if its fuel
- Engine is in time though I havent tested timing at higher rpm then idle
- I've run 3 fuel pumps 2 mechanical and 1 electric same result (psi anywhere from 5-6.5 psi)
- Gas does smell a little varnish but that doesnt make sense because of how much I have been running the boat to test it
- It does look like there may be some back pressure on the engine it pushes oil out at the fill cap which is weird but there doesn't seem to be a ton of blow by so Im not sure about that
-I am going to look at the exhaust flap to see if that an issue but the boat is not and has never overheated and oil pressure is good on the gauge temp is normally 160 or so
- I've replaced all the fuel lines and run them with metal and rubber, I have not replaced the fill line, or the vent line but both seem to be fine far as I can tell though sometimes when filling with gas it will come out off the fill line and others the vent line which is weird.
- New starter on it as well
- Replaced most if not all of the fuses in the circuit as well

Trying to give as much context as possible.

Any other ideas or things for me try to before I fill it with tannerite and send it to heaven?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Also when replacign some of the wires I would mess with them while the boat was running and it would regain full power and the boat surges from full power to bog which is why I cant tell if it fuel or electrical because of the wiggle the wire issue, the problem is extremely consistent like almost to a T the same everytime
 
I had responded on the other post & have moved that response to here (& deleted from there)

Ignition coil is overheating.
Was the ballast resistor or ballast wire bypassed? If no, coil is faulty. I see you answered in this new post.

I don't advise reinventing the wheel. It worked for many years prior to breaking. Put correct replacement coil on with original resistor wire.
Drive it until it acts up & then cool the coil with water. Probably wrap it in a wet rag. But to be honest I got stranded once, removed the coil. It was so hot I held the bracket with a visegrip & submerged it overboard to cool. A bit unethical to submerge electrical parts but I got home without a tow.

You say above: "New distributor, points, and wires"
I assume you are saying distributor CAP, points & PLUG wires. What about rotor & condenser?
 
I have tried changing coil when the boat was quitting on the lake and that did not work, distributor cap rotor condenser everything is new, the ignition coil is nice and warm but not overheating I can hold my hand to it. Same problem with all 4 different coils I tried with and without resistor wire.
 
I did not change the ignition switch no, what sort of problem could that cause if the boat is already running and on plane?
 
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