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1995 150 Fast Strike problem. Motor quits and gives alarm.

T

Tool

Member
So I just bought a 1995 17' Glastron bow rider with a 150 Johnson OB on it.

Took it to the lake and it was quite rough so wasn't a great test but we managed to do a little tubing and some fishing. Boat starts and runs great, lots of power and quick to plane with 4 adults on board.

However, a couple times while buzzing down the lake at speed while approaching full throttle the motor instantly stopped as if you turned the key off and a constant alarm sounded. There are no.warning lights on the dash of this boat.
I'm unsure if the alarm came on before or after the motor quit. But it didn't seem to even sputter just died instantly.

the motor starts right back up and runs fine with no alarm. Any idea what would cause this?
 
A few more details on this issue.

I took the boat out on Sunday for it's second trip. Boat started and ran great at all speeds up to about 3/4 throttle. When running on sustained throttle over 3/4 or neat WOT for a while the alarm sounds and immediately goes into what I believe is the S.L.O.W mode where it drops to 2500 rpm and shakes and misses violently.

Pulling back on the throttle below 2500 rpm motor runs fine and the alarm shuts off. If you apply throttle past 2500 rpm it does the shake and stutter but no alarm. If you shut the key off and restart the motor it operates normally again.

Could this be the fuel restriction alarm?
 
No, that's the overheat alarm. The heat sensor puts the engine into S.L.O.W. mode (kills the ignition on the starboard bank). Turning the key OFF, then back ON resets the circuit.

The key (OFF/ON) would have no effect of a fuel restriction problem.
 
Hmmm. That's quite odd. Obviously if it was in fact over heating pulling back on the throttle until you were off plane wouldn't be enough time to cool the engine below an overheat condition.
There is no temperature gauge, but I don't think it's overheating. It doesn't smell hot, steam, or act like it might be overheating at all. Always peeing a good stream of water.

I checked the cone shaped fuel filter screen deal and it looked quite clean.

Where does a guy look next?
 
Yeah, okay, think what you will.

The warning horn sounds before the engine is hot enough to do any damage.... heat just about normal. This causes the shorted two wire heat sensor connected to the port cylinder head to engage the S.L.O.W. feature of the engine which knocks out the ignition on the starboard bank that results in the rpm drop to 2500 rpm which in turn causes the engine to vibrate.

Pulling back on the throttle simply drops the rpms slightly more, allowing the impeller blade to gather a bit of anti flexibility strength to supply more water to the passages, causing the horn to disengage.... however the engine will continue to run on only three cylinders UNTIL you turn the key OFF, then back ON which (as I mentioned previously) re-set the S.L.O.W. circuit.

There is no need for a guy to go any further...... Your engine needs to have its water pump and thermostats inspected, repaired, replaced, whatever.

It appears that you do not want a explanation of your problem explained to you.... you would rather a technician would come up with something you have rambling around within your thoughts... not likely to happen.

However, you could always cut the wires leading from the two heat sensors (one per cylinder head). That would eliminate the warning horn from sounding as the engine overheats and at the same time keep the S.L.O.W. feature from engaging. In this condition, the engine will soon come to a sizzling overheated screeching halt, after which the problem should be obvious.
 
I definitely have no intention of disabling any alarm systems. Just trying to diagnose and correct my problem. Sorry if I offended anyone somehow?? I'm not a boat mechanic by any means that's why I came to this forum to ask for help. I'm a farmer that does all of his own repairs and servicing on a variety of equipment. Tractors, trucks, semis etc. But my outboard knowledge is limited to older tiller motors for car top aluminium boats. I have experience with omc 3.0 L sterndrives and Mercruiser 4.3 I/O but this outboard is a brand new animal to me. Because I farm full time I'm not able to get to the lake often and it is a 70 mile drive each way to the launch. Being on the Canadian prairie the evinrude dealers are all 70 miles+ each way too so getting parts is a pain.


I completely rebuilt the water pump, impeller and housing and all the seals. Complete kit.
I removed the thermostats. Inspected them and cleaned them in a vinegar solution. Not much to see with them as they are pretty well sealed plastic unit. Unfortunately I didn't have a thermometer to test them in a pot of water.
After rebuilding the water pump I test ran in it in a barrel. Worked well, the tell tale stream seemed like it might be a little stronger than before?

Went to the lake Saturday afternoon. After a while of cruising around I went for a WOT run. Booting along at about 54 MPH and running about 5300 rpm I thought success I have this beat! As it seemed like it ran longer than before at speed. Then a momment later the horn sounded and it went into slow mode.
Pulled the throttle back and the alarm stopped within a couple seconds.
I put my hand in the tell tale stream, the water felt only warm. Removed the cowling and put my hand on the heads. They were quite warm, could only keep your hand there for a few seconds maybe? I have a laser temp sensor somewhere but couldn't find it of course. ��

Where should a guy look next?

Is there somewhere I could connect a temp gauge on this motor?

I will test the thermostats in a pot of water but I think I will just replace them both anyway.

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
I removed the thermostats again and tested them in a pot of water. It appears they are opening at 140F.

Where does a guy look next?
 
The "P" stream is just a water pump indicator and tells you absolutely nothing about engine cooling.. What is your RPM at WOT as seen you have 4 adults in boat, if overpropped it can cause engine to overheat..
 
Should a fuel restriction exist, the fuel primer bulb would have a tendency to be drawn flat.... do you experience this scenario?

Where (measurement?) is the cavitation plate of the engine in relation to the keel at the bottom of the transom?

On the trailer, as you step back for viewing the entire length of the keel of the boat.... is the bottom of the boat perfectly straight... OR... does it have a "hook" like appearance as it approaches the rear of the craft?

Is it possible that the engine may be trimmed slightly too high, exposing the water intake too close to the surface?
 
I don't think the primer bulb is being sucked flat, I have pumped it after it has alarmed. I will measure the height of the cavitation plate.

I had the same thoughts of it being trimmed out too far as the issue always happens as I am trimming the boat trying to get top speed and optimal ride. So I made a WOT pass trimmed all the way down and it still have the alarm and went into SLOW killing off that theory.
 
Reviving this thread because my issue is still not resolved. I'm not able to get to the lake much.

I've replaced both thermostats, New water pump.

Ran the boat yesterday and found that when slow mode engages and the alarm sounds the thermostat housings are reading 130-140 degrees with an infra red heat gun.
I can hold my hand on them for quite a while.
This seems cool to me? Would this indicate an overheat condition?

What should a guy try next? A new temp sensor?
 
Test the heat sensors in the heads, also make sure wires for both heat sensors are isolated from spark plug wires
 
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There is a sensor in the port head that has 2wires and one in the starboard head that has one wire. The white/black wire in the port head sensor closes and stops quick start at 105 dog or so. There is a procedure in the service manual for testing these sensors.

in the morning I will lookin the manual and try to condense it to a post for you

I have 95 J150EXEOM Ocean Runner and this is basically the same engine (OIS)
60 deg V6

A factory service manual was mandatory for me, along with the great advice here.
 
The book shows removing with a wrench. Then connect ohmmeter from lead to body of sensor.
Heat in engine oil
tan blue wire must close at 240 plus or minus 6 and open at 207 plus or minus 15
tan yellow close 277 plus minus 6 open 236 plus minus 15
white black close 105 plus minus 3 open 90 plus minus 3

Good luck
 
If there's a mention here about a fuel restriction, I've overlooked it.

The warning horn alarm of a steady constant beeeeeeeping on that engine is as mentioned... for "Overheating"... BUT it is also the alarm for a fuel restriction that would shut the engine down as complained.

If a restriction is the problem, the fuel primer bulb normally starts to be drawn flat (sucked inwards). This is normally caused by a sticking anti siphon valve as follows:

********************
(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

NOTE: There has been cases when the output valve in the fuel primer bulb would come apart, and the inner portion of the valve would actually reverse itself and be drawn back into the primer bulb's output valve body. This in effect would create a shut off valve and result in a fuel restriction. If this is the case, you should be able to feel something laying in the bottom of the primer bulb when held horizontally.

********************
 
The model you stated is a '96 & should have System Check. A gauge should have been installed on the dash? It would show you which alarm was coming on. So much for that.
The fuel restriction warning does sound the horn above a certain RPM & may go away when RPM is reduced. (Except in severe cases of a kinked hose.) This warning does not set off SLOW! Only overheat does that. It warns you because running your motor that way is running lean at high speed is asking for disaster.
All the other advice you are getting is GREAT!
It does sound like your motor is overheating for some reason due to SLOW being engaged? Have you by any chance added a speedo pickup or transducer to the back of the boat? Those devices can cut water away from the lower unit at higher speeds. When you slow down the pump would recover quickly & cool the motor back down. Just a thought!
 
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Really wish you hadn't said that!

14 months ago, "Tool? stated "approaching full throttle the motor instantly stopped as if you turned the key off and a constant alarm sounded"..... which brought forth my post reply of today (08/05/18 - #21) which I'm sure various members would agree carried some weight. However, unless I read another reply wrong... all replies were great except my post reply #21. I refer "t2" to Rett Butlers last line in the movie "Gone With The Wind" as portrayed by Clark Gable. Poor choice of words there fellow member!
 
Joereeves I'm not sure what you are referring to?
I'm just trying to fix my boat so i can enjoy it to it's full potential the few times i get to use it a year.

Would cylibder head temps and thermostat housibg temps of 130-140 degrees indicate an overheat condition? That seems quite cool to me consideribg the thermostats open at 140?
 
Tool... Did you read over my initial post reply, that is reply #21 ? If not do so.

As far as post reply #24, that was aimed at another member via his reply #23... Ignore it.
 
Ok thank you.
But this alarm is triggering the SLOW mode. My belief is that fuel restriction triggers an alarm but does not put the engine in SLOW mode?

Despite this motor being a '96 it does not have the dash lights indicating which alarm is triggered as the hull is a '95 and muat have the older dash and controls.
 
Tool said:
Ok thank you. But this alarm is triggering the SLOW mode. My belief is that fuel restriction triggers an alarm but does not put the engine in SLOW mode?
Click to expand...

Initially you stated "while approaching full throttle the motor instantly stopped as if you turned the key off and a constant alarm sounded"....

Apparently I missed later when you changed the description of the problem... ie entering the S.L.O.W. mode instead of shutting down. A fuel restriction would not result in having S.L.O.W. engage, you are correct. What you are describing now indicates overheating.

Is that engine a crossflow or a looper? I don't have the book on it.
 
Yes thats right, I initially thought it was shutting down, likely because it was the first time I ever ran the boat. Maybe pulling the throttle back gast enough from WOT snuffed it out.
Going into SLOW mode at 50+ mph puts you into the windshield.

Would cylinder head and thermostat housing temps of 130-143 F while the alarm is sounding and SLOW is engaged indicate overheat?
 
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