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1997 225 ocean pro high voltage

J

Jvalhenson

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I am assuming I need a new rectifier regulator but haven’t been able to find anyone who had these same symptoms. While at idle I am showing 12.8-13.5 volts and the tach is not working just sitting at 0.

when I put it in gear and start to get on plane and the rpms start to get higher the tach suddenly starts working and shoots up immediately to 3000rpms or wherever it’s at and at the same time the voltage immediately shoots up from 13.5 to 16.5 and climbs to as high as 17.5 as I run higher rpm. From say 3000 it will be at 16.5 and climbs to 17.5 at 4500rpm and seems to stabilize there.

Confusing for sure and I figure it’s gonna be the rectifier regulator as I do not think anything else can lead to higher voltage like that and don’t think the tach being bad could be causing it do that? Anyone seen this or have ideas beyond just changing the rectifier regulator?
 
Rectfier bad and needs replaced...also change impeller as these are water cooled. If you have wing nuts on battery ditch em and use locknuts
 
Replaced regulator and when I went to plug it back into the stator plug noticed something wasn’t right with the stator side of the plug. The wire that plugs into the yellow without stripe had come loose and looked to be making intermittent contact as the end was burnt a little. Not bad just a little brown on the end and I assume that is what fried the regulator.....

the problem I have now is when my dad brought the tool to release the clip inside the plug to release the terminals he cut the wires off before I got a chance to mark them. So now I am not sure which wire from the stator should plug into which wire on the regulator.

the wires from the stator are both plain yellow no stripe on either. The schematics say one should be plane yellow and one yellow with brown stripe like the regulator has but they do not. They are just plane yellow.

anyone know which one of those wires coming off the stator should go to the yellow with strip on the regulator? As I am standing behind the motor looking forwards the wires come off the back of the stator so maybe a “left or right” wire as you are looking forwards at the back of the stator would help me out ha.

Trying to find the old stator and look at it as the one on it now is not the original. That was about 15 years ago though so I doubt I’ll actually find the old one. Major rookie mistake I know. Didn’t mark them to start with bc the one end had the bad spot on it but he snipped them off even before I knew what he was doing so here I am ha.
 
Well now I am really scratching my head. Ran the boat today and it is still doing exactly the same thing. All connections seem fine and while running at WOT was showing 14.5v.....but the tach was at 0-200rpm but really we were at more like 5000. After about 2 miles the tach suddenly shot up to 5000 and the voltage shot up to well over 17. Exact same thing. Came back down to idle and tach went back to 0 and voltage back to 13 or so. Hopefully didn’t just fry another rectifier regulator but I guess it probably did. Back to the drawing board. Maybe have a bad ground somewhere. Had meter on the battery at the time while also watch the voltage on the screen and they were with .5v of each other at all times. I don’t know and I am getting frustrated ha.

load tested batteries and they tested fine. No wing nuts or anything like that. Everything is old it’s all pushing 20 years old so maybe it’s just something within the wiring that I can’t see. Just don’t know.
 
Is there any way the stator can be causing the issue? I don’t see how it could being it’s just making AC so I don’t see how the stator itself can cause high voltage. For sure low voltage could be stator but just can’t see how it could cause high voltage. Gonna put the ohm meter in it later but just can’t see how it would be that. We did have some magnets come loose last year and marred up some of the plastic on the stator but all the coils etc look just fine. That said it was the very trip after replacing the magnets that the high voltage issue started
 
Jvalhenson said:
Is there any way the stator can be causing the issue? I don’t see how it could being it’s just making AC so I don’t see how the stator itself can cause high voltage. For sure low voltage could be stator but just can’t see how it could cause high voltage. Gonna put the ohm meter in it later but just can’t see how it would be that. We did have some magnets come loose last year and marred up some of the plastic on the stator but all the coils etc look just fine. That said it was the very trip after replacing the magnets that the high voltage issue started
Click to expand...
Test while when problem exist. It will only test good when it's working good!
 
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1) Make sure reg/rect is for a 35amp system 2) Make sure grounding washer is under the 1/4 bolt on rec/reg and unit is not isolated from block by gasket or sealer if used. 3) If a CDI rectifier it can be bad out of box
 
Tested the stator and it was def shorted to ground. Got new one but unfortunately my saga continues. Replaced stator and another rectifier regulator. Everything hooked up correctly and all connections good etc. all of this triple checked. Prior to replacing stator motor was running like a top just overcharging. Now suddenly it won’t run. Replaced those parts and immediately it wouldn’t crank. Act like it was about to crank then kinda pop/backfire through exhaust and cut off. Replaced all plugs and wires same thing. Kept messing with it and now it cranks and sounds right for a few second then sputters and dies. Good spark at all plugs. Next chance gonna try to test the output of the ignition side of the stator as I think it has ignition side and charge side? Any other ideas? Like I said was running perfectly prior to replacing stator and rec/reg. Any ideas on what to check other than new stator output?
 
Left off one possibly important thing....on the new stator the wires coming off the front of it are not color coded exactly the same as the old one. Only one had an orange wire and an orange with black stripe wire going to the power packs matching colors....however on the new one it has an orange wire and a black wire instead of the orange with black stripe. Naturally I plugged in the oranges together and the power pack orange/black to the new stator solid black wire. Seemed logical but as I’m thinking about it maybe those 2 are crossed somehow? Wouldn’t make sense but being an aftermarket stator maybe it’s just hooked up wrong? No directions came with it.
 
Key is very suspect looking. It ain’t flush with shaft it it’s only like a mm sticking out. Maybe less. Got new one but any tips on getting the old one out? It’s mushroomed out pretty bad swole in there. Been tapping on it(hard) for 3 hours with no progress. Leary of putting the torch on it bc or timer base right there being plastic. May have to remove the timer base I guess to add heat?
 
Knock on wood that seems to have been it. Got old key out with dremmel tool and cutting wheel cut it down the middle enough to knock it out. Ran great with new key in it on the hose. Gotta go run it tomorrow to know for sure but hopefully it’s ready to go.
 
Thanks for the advice. In case anyone is following along with this it all seems to be good. Ran it this afternoon and filled a box with some fine trout with the kids. Still a couple little things gotta do like replace seals in tilt which I already have the kit for and the tach is still in and out intermittently but I think that may just be dirt connection on the back of it gonna look at that tomorrow but motor and charging system seem to be back to right.

to recap it all.....magnet came loose under flywheel which damaged the stator which fried the rectifier regulator. Also sheered the flywheel key I guess when the flywheel abruptly stopped when the magnet wedges under it and stator. 300 for stator, 300 for rec reg, 180 for 6 magnets, and 10 for flywheel key. Plus another 200 combined for the tilt seal kit and a steering seal kit. Came in at around $1000 total for the full fix. Over 3000 hours on her and counting as long she will spin gonna stick with her. On borrowed time I know so I’m sure a new 225 zuke is prob in the semi near future but dern I love the old looper. Ain’t as bad on gas as the reputation either. Not good of course but she gets 2.2-2.3 running 4000rpm and 30mph. Any faster than that though and it drops fast ha! Can get to 1.5 quick if I’m leaning to hard on it.
 
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