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1999 130hp spark plugs

N

NSDON

Advanced Contributor
These are my spark plugs I removed yesterday, likely 8+ years old, I think they look pretty good.

They are original spec NGK ZFR 7F-11, is there any upgrade available for say iridium?
1776591421183.jpeg
1776591421183.jpeg
 
I think these were the first Honda FI outboard, the 115 and 130? They have a PCV, which I’m not sure if other Honda outboards have a PCV.

For posterity, this it it with the valve cover off for a valve check. It’s very clean there too.

I’ve always used synthetic oil, 91 octane fuel, and a steady diet of Sea Foam in the fuel in the fall. My 18 ft boat has a 63 US gallon fuel tank and I use an external spin on fuel water separator. I also buy my fuel at a local busy gas station, never at a marina.

1776615998936.jpeg
1776615998936.jpeg
 
No expert on plug wear but those electrodes and ground straps look close to new IMO.

Not a spec of sludge in the upper end. Good job with the oil selection and maintenance!

Hopefully this isn't the first look at valves?? I'm interested in how long it's been since the lash was measured and what it is now.

I did find references for iridium replacement plugs but hesitate to post them because, it's curious to me that the NGK number only readily comes up on Amazon and NOT on NGK so more research would be needed to convince me that the info is valid or even trustworthy. I've been burned by Amazon "aquired" spark plugs before.

There's a reference as well for a Denso irididium replacement but caution should also be used there too. Many have ruined their engines by using incompatible plugs.

Besides, your results with the nickle alloy plugs seem to have gotten better wear than I've seen on some iridium sparked engines. So, why change?

Just me "kibitzing" withchya.
 
I’ll use the existing spec plugs, I’ll try the dealer today.

This was my first 4 stroke, bought my first boat in 2003, all previously were used 2 strokes with carbs. I’ve always been fussy about fuel used and have owned antique cars with carbs since 2002 so used to keeping those fuel systems clean. I had never owned an engine before that needed valve adjustment as a maintenance item and am of the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it “ school of thought. So i bought this boat late in 2017 and have never done a valve adjustment!!!

This outboard was installed new in 1999 on a 1986 Boston Whaler in Nova Scotia, since that time I’m guessing it has had maybe 40 hours use annually so as of now it has maybe 1,000 hours on it at most, always in salt water. It was owned by a lawyer and dealer maintained before I bought it.

When I got it, it worked great but was very a bit fussy at low speed, I suspected the fuel system probably had been used to marina 87 octane ethanol fuel- it had no external fuel water separator so I added that. My old cars never ran good on 87 octane so I converted the Honda to 91 and started using Sea Foam. I also used it as much as possible at 3500 rpm or more. That made for a great improvement in idle.

The Honda also was fussy on triggering the overheating alarm at low speed, a restart and it would go away. Turns out the thermostat was toast, it needed a major flush, so it got one in a barrel with vinegar, plus a complete new impeller kit. After that, it’s been working flawlessly.

I only learned on this site about the need to check valve adjustment on the Honda, but it was working so good, I didn’t put it at the top of the list until now. I only do about 40-50 hours a year, so not a high hour user, we have a short boating season and I’m not a fisherman.

I’ve did some maintenance work on some friends Honda’s and Yamahas last fall, did a valve adjustment on 3 Hondas, all needed adjusting so I thought it would be a good idea to check mine this spring. I’m getting new plugs and a valve cover gasket so will get that done now. Probably won’t get in the water until mid June.

My water pump is likely due for a replacement now too based on time. It’s about 5 years old but was working good last fall.
 
Yes, I forgot to say that your "fuel stategy" is a good one. ESPECIALLY the part about using fuel from a busy station and NEVER marina or campground sold gas.

You've schooled me on the vinegar flush and the fact that it's effective so, thank you for that.

At only 1,000 hours it might not need a valve adjustment.
Honda makes their "hard stuff" HARD. But, on the other hand, valve seats are on the soft side and you would never want those valves getting too tight. So, for your plan to check them, I say BRAVO!
 
NSDON said:
I’ll use the existing spec plugs, I’ll try the dealer today.

This was my first 4 stroke, bought my first boat in 2003, all previously were used 2 strokes with carbs. I’ve always been fussy about fuel used and have owned antique cars with carbs since 2002 so used to keeping those fuel systems clean. I had never owned an engine before that needed valve adjustment as a maintenance item and am of the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it “ school of thought. So i bought this boat late in 2017 and have never done a valve adjustment!!!

This outboard was installed new in 1999 on a 1986 Boston Whaler in Nova Scotia, since that time I’m guessing it has had maybe 40 hours use annually so as of now it has maybe 1,000 hours on it at most, always in salt water. It was owned by a lawyer and dealer maintained before I bought it.

When I got it, it worked great but was very a bit fussy at low speed, I suspected the fuel system probably had been used to marina 87 octane ethanol fuel- it had no external fuel water separator so I added that. My old cars never ran good on 87 octane so I converted the Honda to 91 and started using Sea Foam. I also used it as much as possible at 3500 rpm or more. That made for a great improvement in idle.

The Honda also was fussy on triggering the overheating alarm at low speed, a restart and it would go away. Turns out the thermostat was toast, it needed a major flush, so it got one in a barrel with vinegar, plus a complete new impeller kit. After that, it’s been working flawlessly.

I only learned on this site about the need to check valve adjustment on the Honda, but it was working so good, I didn’t put it at the top of the list until now. I only do about 40-50 hours a year, so not a high hour user, we have a short boating season and I’m not a fisherman.

I’ve did some maintenance work on some friends Honda’s and Yamahas last fall, did a valve adjustment on 3 Hondas, all needed adjusting so I thought it would be a good idea to check mine this spring. I’m getting new plugs and a valve cover gasket so will get that done now. Probably won’t get in the water until mid June.

My water pump is likely due for a replacement now too based on time. It’s about 5 years old but was working good last fall.
Click to expand...
Don't fall for the "It worked fine last Fall, so I'll leave it" with a 5 year old impeller. They develop 'set' in the vanes and that weaken the water flow because the rubber doesn't return to straight after being forced to sit with them pressed to the side. Low hours/year doesn't necessarily mean teh impeller will still be good after 5 years and the rubber can become brittle. LIke the one that was in my boat.........
 

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I’ve not had one chunk like that, that’s a mess in the cooling system. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it is not a good idea with impellers.
 
NSDON said:
I’ve not had one chunk like that, that’s a mess in the cooling system. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it is not a good idea with impellers.
Click to expand...

None of those pieces made it to the rest of the cooling system, they just fell into the area next to the slots where the fresh water enters when the idiot ran it.
 
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