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2000 40hp ELPTO cant shut off

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UDave69

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I have a Mercury 40hp 2 stroke (40 ELPTO) on my pontoon. Sometimes when I try to start it the solenoid motor? runs but doesn’t engage the motor and the solenoid motor keeps running and stays running even when I shut the key off. I had to disconnect at the positive battery terminal to kill it, hot. Before when this has happened I could reconnect the battery cable and fire it up but now if I try to connect the positive battery cable it’s still hot – sparks fly and the key isn’t even in the ignition. I’m not real smart at wiring so I’m hoping one of you Mercury mechanics will say it’s the solenoid so I can just buy a new one and replace.

I would greatly appreciate any input from you folks on this – Thanks

Uncle Dave
 
Funny, another person in this forum reported the same thing, same motor too! The load is shorting across the ignition switch. The solenoid continuing to run overloaded it and now it's just shorting across straight to the battery. Remove and replace the switch, solenoid may need to be replaced too. You can test it with a multimeter to see if the resistance matches the manufacturer specs, or have it tested.
Mike
 
siluetae137 said:
Funny, another person in this forum reported the same thing, same motor too! The load is shorting across the ignition switch. The solenoid continuing to run overloaded it and now it's just shorting across straight to the battery. Remove and replace the switch, solenoid may need to be replaced too. You can test it with a multimeter to see if the resistance matches the manufacturer specs, or have it tested.
Mike
Click to expand...
Agree. Either water or metal shavings have shorted out contacts internally to the switch.
 
That’s some great info and greatly appreciate it.

I have a lot to learn and hate to ask dumb questions Mike but when you talk about “remove and replace the switch” are you talking about replacing the keyed ignition switch(mine is push to choke) ? Is the magnetic switch talked about the same thing as the solenoid ?

I’ve been looking for electrical diagrams for my remote control wiring harness to motor online but seems there are a dozen different diagrams and I’ll repeat “I’m not good with wiring”. I can do most anything mechanical though. I do have a multi-meter and if I could find the right plug # or wire color I can check for power. I can replace the solenoid no problem. I have plenty of patience and really enjoy learning/fixing things like this. I’M RETIRED !

Thanks again for any help ! !



Uncle Dave
 
No such thing Uncle Dave, question everything is my moto. When you say push to choke, is that the remote switch that you push the key in and it chokes before the actual starter engagement?
Like you, I would assume he is talking about the starter solenoid. A bit over-simplified for my taste, and somewhat misleading too, because there are actual magnets on the flywheel that induce current in the charge coils so a 'magnetic switch' could be incorrectly associated with those. I always say starter solenoid, which is a type of relay device that acts as an electromagnet, in that it generates a magnetic field to move a plunger which completes the circuit...so yes, a magnetic switch, just not something heard often, usually if you say solenoid then peoples attention automatically goes to the starter, as it should - less confusion.
If you have a multimeter then definitely test the solenoid. There should be 2 large terminals and one small terminal. Disconnect all power to the solenoid and test for continuity between terminals. There should be no continuity between the terminal connected to the battery and the one connected to the starter (the 2 large ones). This is the switch that gets closed when the signal is received from the ignition switch, so if there has been no current provided then the magnetic field has not been induced and the plunger could not have moved to close the circuit sending current to the starter motor. We know this because you disconnected the power supply. So if your multimeter beeps then the solenoid is faulty, which should be an easy fix! And at that point you will know the wiring too - win win!
Mike
 
Thanks Mike - I am certainly grateful there are people like you willing to help those who want to learn.
Yes that is the "remote switch that you push the key in and it chokes before the actual starter engagement"
Great instructions - When the rains quit here, hopefully tomorrow morning, I'll be using your system to check and get back to you on results.
Uncle Dave
 
You guys were right ! ! THANKS ! Solenoid was welded shut. $64 later for new OEM and it turns over and shut's off perfectly. Problem now is it wont start, not even a pop. I have good spark to my plugs, that was the first thing I checked (shocking experience). I'm guessing it's no gas to carbs. I put new gas in the tank and always use sta-bil. I didn't clear the gas in the hose from last year though so thought that might be the problem. Seems maybe my choke solenoid isn't working ? Was going to disconnect the hose and turn it over while pushing the electric choke button in on the ignition switch to see if fuel is coming thru. What's the little push button on top of the choke solenoid for ?
I have to take care of my 92yo father and also grand children keep me busy but I'm getting there ! THANKS to you guys ! any thoughts shared are greatly appreciated !

Uncle Dave
 
Self priming I guess. I have looked into that expecting that it was on the piston assembly and would deflect when you pushed the prime button but that wasn't the case. You can push it down with your finger and the spring pops it back up. You could disconnect the line going to the carbs and pump the bulb till firm then activating the prime switch and see if you get fuel coming out of that hose to the carbs. Looked in my manual and no explanation.

Agree on old fuel not wanting to light off. I'd move some plastic shrouds out of the way and unscrew the bowls on the carbs and then (with a catch container) pump the bulb to flush the fuel then close them back up and pump till you get a firm bulb and try again with your fuel enrichment activated.
 
Hey Uncle Dave are you sure that's the choke solenoid? Because I've seen starter solenoids with the same button you describe. They provide an advantage on larger vessels for local access to engage the starter without having to switch it on remotely at the helm.
 
Yes Dave that is the manual bypass for enricher(choke). Hold it down and pump bulb twice to add raw fuel to crankcase when rope starting.
 
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