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2006 Honda BF225 - Head Gasket? vids attached

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BiglarinVancouver

Member
Think there is any chance... at all.. that this amount of steam out the exhaust is not a Head Gasket or cracked jacket somewhere?
some points to note:

1. just dewinterizing after sitting for 5 months.. i think this is unrelated to my issue
3. sorry for the upside down video as holding something in other hand and couldn't retake it
2. as shown, oil is milky too after i'd just changed it out ( was milky prior to changing too but not this bad). this milky oil shown is new and only after 30 mins. run time total in the tank
3. vid shows motor at about 2K rpm
4. is that vacuum sound when shutting off normal? or indicative of something going on? it's very prevalent
5. had oil dripping outta front area of motor when tilted, just above the 'turning forks' as pictured. i had an oil leak outta bottom of left hand valve cover. repaired that and oil leak is much less prevalent now.. i think present leak is just residual oil draining down when motor is tilted right up as oil colour as opposed to existing milkiness. valve cover gasket repair was just done with only 1/2 hour of run time in tank.
5. motor has alot of cooling water pouring out front of lower section - is this normal? i presume no.. should be pushing out pee stream and out propeller exhaust only - correct?
6. ignore the soapy suds as was using salt away during this video
8. i've had the motor for 5 years.. ran ( and still runs) great aside from vst filter getting plugged a few times
9. not sure if Service Bulletin #56 has ever been performed
10. salt use pretty much it's whole life.. i flush via inlet hose fitting each time



my next steps:

1. have not pulled plugs yet - will do in two days time
2. check compression
3. attempt leak down test
4. any additional ideas to check initially?

lots of points here but wanted to try and be thorough as to paint a decent description of what's happening

Think i might get 'lucky' and exhaust steam / milky oil could be related to a certain seal failing?


Am mechanically inclined so any suggestions at all for me to check aside from the aforementioned / doing head gasket job will be much appreciated.

Thanks Guys..
 
here are the two vids.. and pic of oil..
vid 1 with steam - running about 2K rpm
vid 2 showing vacuum sound when turning off.. overheat alarm just start prior to taking video. was running in tank and water got warm on me
 
Videos didn't come through.

Couple of thoughts...
1. The milky oil is your key problem.
2. It's pretty rare for these engines to blow a head gasket UNLESS they have overheated. More often it's from corrosion eating through from the water passages - SOMEWHERE. Pull your T-stats and see how much corrosion there is under the T-stat. You may need to pull your heads for a thorough inspection of water passages.
3. When the water pump is working, you will get exhaust water out of the prop area and from several openings above the prop.
4. SB #56 attached.
 

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chawk_man.. thank you very much for the response.. and the sb 56 document.. it spells out my steps if oil pan gasket replacement required too..

much appreciated..

hopefully my pics attached come thru here this time round..

their descriptions:

pics ending in

.. 791 and 783 is looking from left side of motor just above top cavitation plate. this much oil accumulated after half hour run in test tank at about 1500rpm

..786 is amount of residue accumulated in bottom of test tank after running salt away ( mixed into tank) for half hour). removed thermostats and relatively corroded but still worked in hot pot of water - opening at about 90C. i removed both thermostats for the flushing exercise, then flushed out with hose water jammed down one of the thermostat openings.. pee stream was dripping out prior to flush, is now like niagra falls .. awesome.. new thermostats arriving tomorrow and will install. no more steam outta exhaust / everheat alarm when running in tank

... 793-796 is looking at front of oil pan gasket from left side of motor - i' cleaned it up prior to 1/2 hr test run in tank.. wondering if weeping/ a leak here would be cause of water in oil as well due to seapage when left in water for two months ( salt)? i needed to leave motor in down position due to oil leakage when tilted up, leading to rainbow water at my slip

..797 is oil pan gasket from right front side of motor

...795 IMPORTANT PIC.. just below the 'steering fork' is a slight channel where the oil would drip out of when tilted up.. about one drop every 10 seconds when tilted up after just shutting down warm motor..

'hoping' either oil pan gasket or upper shift shaft seal or some other seal is causing the oil leak(s) / water into oil...

after changing out the super milky oil shown in my last post.. it definitely appears like the current oil is less milky after the half hour test tank run.. that oil is still in motor but plan on the typical 3-4 oil flushes to clear out any remaining milkshake once i get my problems resolved..

given this info, any further input is most welcomed as to what to logically tackle next..

Thank you again..
 

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I'm not familiar with the BF225, but I have heard of (on BF225) oil leaking out past the steering fork when tilted up, which is caused by a cracked engine mount cover plate. I'm not sure if that would also allow water into the oil. Not easy to get to.

Bob
 
Go to “Honda 225 oil leak” . There you will see what I had to replace . I don’t know why I can’t get all the pictures to load. Sorry.
 
Here is the part number “11300 ZY3 000. It’s called “case assembly oil seal” . About $115.00. Boats .net
Hope this helps
G
 
ok.. got it.. thank you Garygin.. good times with pics to load as have encountered same thing here.. the pic came thru.. thanks for the info.. question.. do you know if that part can be checked with the motor intact? as opposed to removing lower assemblies then the oil pan to see it... - correct?
thanks alot..
 
well.. found somewhat of a big deal here.. as per pics:
1. lower driveshaft rubber mount casing area had totally disintegrated.
2. disassembled down to oil pan removal
3. exhaust gaskets non existent
3. biggest deal, found these metal pieces in oil pan
4. have purchased another mid section along with SB#56 items to replace and reassemble
5. pics showing both sides of oil pan gaskets.. i could be wrong but don't see any blowby between the cavities - i was hoping i would which would explain the milkshake

questions
1. any input.. at all.. as to what those metal pieces might be??
2. although she runs perfectly is the motor pretty much shot now or would you reassemble and pretend i never saw them..?
3. based on my water in oil scenario, think my mid section fallen apart would cause the milkshake? sensing that seawater pushing up the driveshaft ( as fully exposed to underwater environment) into the motor's splines, water may have pushed through some gaskets in that area and into the oil side of things?

fwiw, I generally only fish 1 - 3 miles from our marina and have a 9.9 kicker so could putz back in if the 225 packed it in - just want to get a few more seasons out of her.

motor has 1,9xx hours and I have the DR Honda software package if that makes any difference given my scenario for monitoring sensors once back up and running

lots of points here but any input is welcomed..
 

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Did you happen to look at the case assembly oil seal. The reason I say that is because those pieces in your photo look like to me anyway that they are part of the casting . If that is the case you would be able to tell if those pieces match what is missing from the case assembly oil seal. Let me know what you find.
Best to you
 
If those parts match the casting and you can put the puzzle back together , I would run it. If the engine doesn’t owe you anything and it runs good , run it.
 
thank you.. you certainly know your stuff Garygin.. much appreciated...

based on your description of case assembly oil seal.. i presume it's part 11300-ZY3-C00 you're referring to.. given the current disassembly of the motor, can i see that part/ area to figure out the puzzle? having trouble locating it.. whereabouts? when i look up into the crankcase cover from where the oil pan was, theres a gasket protruding from where it appears in diagrams where the
VALVE ASSY., SPOOL *NH8* (DARK GRAY) - part 15810-ZY3-003ZA sits ( i think it's the vtec solenoid? - it's part 16 in this diagram: https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...n-bagj-1800001-to-bagj-1899999/cylinder-block) and i think the gasket shows as part 17 in that same diagram)

question: do you know if somehow that gasket could be replaced looking up into the motor from the oil pan cavity?

i very well may not be making sense here and can take pics tomorrow of the gasket that i think is shot.. hoping that might be the cause of my milkshake..
 
Here it is . I just did this three weeks ago. Took me 20 hours start to finish. I replaced the anodes in the exhaust manifolds , with all the “o” rings , oil seals etc. I going to test the boat out hopefully Friday. I’ll probably start it tomorrow, if it leaks I’m going to jump!
That is the right part number 11300-zy3-C00
 

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Geesh. Good work on all those efforts, Gary.
I appreciate your assistance over the past few days on this project and appears that I am 2/3 of the way there removing the powerhead and accessing that part… or am I underestimating by a ton? Thanks
 
It really isn’t that bad. The service manual has you taking everything off. You can leave somethings attached. The reason I’m saying that is because you only have to raise it up about 8” . That’s all the room you need to get at everything. There is a seal above the case oil seal. You can use a pick to remove it. I did because I was there and figured I would just replace it. Use a socket close to the od of the seal and drive it in slowly making sure it starts straight. The one thing I will tell you is the shift gear must be aligned and it is real easy to move it. It has two dots that you have to line up. The issue is you can nearly see the one on the top . So I marked it to make it more visible. Just take your time . I would almost bet those pieces in your oil pan are from the case oil seal casting. Also I forgot to tell you , I used a tri pod with a chain fall to lift my engine and just left it hanging while I did all of the work.
Let me know how you make out.
Gary
 
Those pieces are nothing to do with oil seal casing, nor is the oil leak. The pieces are from the top engine mount cover which will also allow oil to leak from location mentioned, and water to get into your oil
 
iang6766 said:
Image above is what you need plus the seal for it
Click to expand...
Hey thank you very much iang6766. Any input as to with the current state of oil pan removed, what steps are now required to swap that TOP ENGINE MOUNT COVER / gasket? Roughly how many hours from its current state of disassembly To swap the part then back to where I’m at?
 
The powerhead has to come off. Usually about 1 hr tops if you already have the oil pan off. The plate I mentioned is on the top side of the mount case, covering the top mounts. They are a common issue because they corrode from underneath, then start to break up
 
iang6766 said:
The powerhead has to come off. Usually about 1 hr tops if you already have the oil pan off. The plate I mentioned is on the top side of the mount case, covering the top mounts. They are a common issue because they corrode from underneath, then start to break up
Click to expand...
I stand corrected. I must have entered the incorrect part number. That is what I replaced as shown in the picture I posted
 
Understood. Thank you very much iang6766. Am ordering the part and gasket and tackling it after bout a week’s delivery timeframe.
Will keep this post active as sharing the results.

This forum is fantastic.

Thanks again.
 
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