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2013 Yamaha F115 Bogs / Starving for fuel

jcoyne97222

New member
I am the original owner of this motor and after all these years finally got hit with water in the gas! I had just replaced the water separator / filter and had prepped the motor for the summer season. I put it in, and after about 10 minutes the motor bogged and would only idle. After checking things out, I found water in the gas. I proceeded to empty the tank and flushed some fresh gas through. Replaced my fuel separator again and the main entry fuel filter. It still won't rev out and sometimes will die.

From reading, it sounds like I need dig into the VST. Looks like a pain in the arse but comes with boats I guess!

A few questions if anybody has experience with this issue.

Does the water in the VST gets stuck in there or is it debris that gets past the filters?

I guess I am trying to understand why the water won't work it's way through the system?

When servicing the VST how often do the injectors need to be cleaned? It idles perfectly and when 1st started revs up good before it bogs. Then it bogs right away. My gut tells the injectors are ok. I haven't found any debris in the fuel. Just separation of the liquid.

Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated!

John
 
The cartridge filter that is on the motor generally catches most debris particles, but any water contaminated fuel will make it's way into the VST and the fuel pump will try and move it regardless, so keep in mind that excess attempts of use like this can wear the pump out due to lack of lubrication that the gasoline provides. The contaminated fuel will also be in the fuel rail, the injectors will struggle to operate with the contaminated fuel and that struggle will increase with RPM, but they are likely unharmed. You will be able to inspect them further when you pull them out to clean the fuel rail, could send them to a shop for cleaning if you want peace of mind. I don't recall there being a cleaning process for them or any real servicing you can do besides cleaning or changing the inlet screens, they are usually pretty reliable.
I'm no scientist, but the water is denser than the gasoline that runs through the system, the fine tolerances of the fuel system and the injectors don't work the water through the system like you are thinking a carburetor might, especially with the RPM increase you're telling it to drink more of what it can't physically operate with.
 
The cartridge filter that is on the motor generally catches most debris particles, but any water contaminated fuel will make it's way into the VST and the fuel pump will try and move it regardless, so keep in mind that excess attempts of use like this can wear the pump out due to lack of lubrication that the gasoline provides. The contaminated fuel will also be in the fuel rail, the injectors will struggle to operate with the contaminated fuel and that struggle will increase with RPM, but they are likely unharmed. You will be able to inspect them further when you pull them out to clean the fuel rail, could send them to a shop for cleaning if you want peace of mind. I don't recall there being a cleaning process for them or any real servicing you can do besides cleaning or changing the inlet screens, they are usually pretty reliable.
I'm no scientist, but the water is denser than the gasoline that runs through the system, the fine tolerances of the fuel system and the injectors don't work the water through the system like you are thinking a carburetor might, especially with the RPM increase you're telling it to drink more of what it can't physically operate with.
Thanks for the reply and what you are saying makes sense. I have ordered the filters and gasket / o-rings and hope to dig into it later this week.

The one thing you mentioned was cleaning of the fuel rail. I have watched a few really good videos on Youtube on cleaning the VST but don't recall anybody showing cleaning the fuel rail. I will have to watch some more videos and looking into what it that will take.

Thanks again!

John
 
Once the fuel rail is disconnected and removed, there will be an open end that the quick-connect hardened fuel line was connected to. Simple as blowing it out with compressed air, start at the furthest injector hole and work your way down. Let it hang and dry out. I wouldn't spray any solvents too strong into it for cleaning as it is plastic. Make sure you clean it out before installation should it sit for a period of time.
 
I guess you got this straightened out by now, but I’ve had fresh water in my fuel rail a few times and I just depressed the valve on top of rail while running engine a few times and it cleared the water then run the hell out of it for a few minutes to make sure all water is cleared. Never had issues doing this, but it makes a bit of mess and don’t do near a source of ignition!!
 
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