280 outdrive bearing noise

[stracy]

280 outdrive is making noise at idle while not in gear It sounds as if it is in the engine connectiuon Underway the noise gets louder

I read earlier posts that there is a bearing that connects to the flywheel but Looking at the 280 sketch the u joint looks like it connects directly

I removed the out drives last season and replaced all parts reccomended bellows s hose etc this side (port) did have corrosion on the ujoint cleaned it up grease it seemed fine

Is the u joint the problem or is there another bearing

 

[RicardoMarine]

Stracy, most likely PDS bearing(s) need to be replaced.

PDS = primary drive shaft, and yes it connects the flywheel mounted "drive coupler" to the transmission's universal drive shaft yoke.

You do not mention which engines.

If GM V-8 back when the 280 was used, this will be a double bearing PDS.
Engine must be removed for bearing replacement.

If Ford V-8, this will be a single bearing PDS.
If Volvo Penta in-line 4 or 6 cylinder, this will be a single bearing PDS.
For the single bearing PDS, the Engine does not need to be removed for bearing replacement.

DO NOT allow these bearings to fail.
The resulting damage and repair cost will make the replacement seem very easy and inexpensive.



These are industry standard bearings.
You can buy them from a major bearing supplier for much less than OEM.


There are a few tips for R&R if interested.



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[stracy]

It is a GM 350. Looking at older post it has no grease fitting on the red housing It could be a 270
attached housing

 

[RicardoMarine]

It is a GM 350. Looking at older post it has no grease fitting on the red housing It could be a 270
attached housing

Whether 280 or 270 out drive, you will need to go by the engine model number.
This will begin with AQ.

But regardless, I can see that your red 1 pc flywheel cover PDS will be a double bearing style.
It may have a grease cup in lieu of a zerk fitting.



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[stracy]

Whether 280 or 270 out drive, you will need to go by the engine model number.
This will begin with AQ.

But regardless, I can see that your red 1 pc flywheel cover PDS will be a double bearing style.
It may have a grease cup in lieu of a zerk fittings


Engines are rebuilt GMs 2010 Bottom line engine has to be removed to replace PDS bearings pulling boat out of water next week so removal of engine requires a different spot for storage

I will be back in touch for R&R tips when it is out

thanks

 

[RicardoMarine]

Engines are rebuilt GMs 2010
Bottom line engine has to be removed to replace PDS bearings ...... pulling boat out of water next week so removal of engine requires a different spot for storage

I will be back in touch for R&R tips when it is out

Yes, by all means post back.
There are several pointers that I can give you so that these bearings will last for another 15 to 20 years.

Here are a few images.
The first two show where the PDS is in relationship to the B/W coupler, flywheel cover and the transmission universal shaft yoke.
Third one shows an 18" grease gun extension hose used as a remoted lube hose.
Fourth image shows the damage caused from a bearing that disintegrated at higher rpm.
Last image is a double bearing PDS. If you flip it's direction 180, it will be shown as in the first two images.

 

[stracy]

Yes, by all means post back.
There are several pointers that I can give you so that these bearings will last for another 15 to 20 years.

Here are a few images.
The first two show where the PDS is in relationship to the B/W coupler, flywheel cover and the transmission universal shaft yoke.
Third one shows an 18" grease gun extension hose used as a remoted lube hose.
Fourth image shows the damage caused from a bearing that disintegrated at higher rpm.
Last image is a double bearing PDS. If you flip it's direction 180, it will be shown as in the first two images.

Can the engine be moved foward to pull the pds bearings How much room would be needed

 

[RicardoMarine]

Can the engine be moved foward to pull the pds bearings How much room would be needed

It can be done if moved forward and turned sideways a bit.

After the two large snap rings have been removed from within the bellows snout, the PDS and the 6206 bearing is driven from the front out the rear.

The front 6007 bearing is driven out from AFT forward, after it's snap ring is removed.
(See my drawing)

Basically, you need enough room to swing a bronze hammer at the front section of the PDS.
The rest is simple.

Don't forget to prefill the grease cavity prior to installing the new seals.

FWD seal is glued in place...... we can't risk this seal being dislodged.
AFT seal installs in the non-conventional direction.




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[RicardoMarine]

A few more images for you.

The two large snap rings (for the AFT PDS seal and bearing) are set rather deeply, and are within a rather small bore, and with the PDS right dead smack in our way!
I've had zero luck with any factory made snap ring pliers for this work..... it's just too tight in there.
Instead, I use a long needle nose pliers with the tips rounded down a bit, and tweaked inwards as to not slip from the snap ring eyelets.
Nothing has worked better. You'll see why once you begin.


In my 3rd image, you'll see the correct installation direction for the FWD 35x62x7mm seal.
Note that the seal lip and tension spring face AFT, towards the grease cavity.
This seal must be glued or staked so that it can't be pushed out by excessive grease gun pressure in the future.

The AFT 35x62x7mm seal faces in the exact same direction (I.E., non-conventional) as in the seal lip and tension spring also face AFT and away from the grease cavity.
We want this seal to breach excessive grease gun pressure.
If not..... the FWD seal may be pushed out of it's bore, resulting in no future grease reaching the more critical AFT 6206 bearing.
This is important... please take note!

 

[OnewireAT1]

THANK YOU RM!