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65 Evinrude Residue on Lower Unit after Running

R

rhartman421

Regular Contributor
Good Day All,

Please see below pictures and describe what could cause this? I plan on getting a new impeller and changing lower unit oil. The hole circled seemed to have alot of residue come out. The motor sat for years.

Does anyone know where to find type c lower unit oil for electric shift in stores? I could order online.. if needed



 
My understanding is that it's normal to see oil residue like that. I was worried when I got my first motor as well until I learned that it's normal.
 
That is quite a bit, friends. If the oil in lower unit is dark cream colored then it needs to be drained and pressure/vacuum tested. You don't want to ignore contamination in lower units. Especially electric shifts. Might ask a question.....what is your oil to non oxy gas, mixing ratio? This could be a result of too much oil.....or a motor problem related to ignition, carburation, or compression. Oil for these lower units is available at your OMC dealer, or of course on-line. As you must know, they need the special lube for elec. shift.
 
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timguy said:
That is quite a bit, friends. If the oil in lower unit is dark cream colored then it needs to be drained and pressure/vacuum tested. You don't want to ignore contamination in lower units. Especially electric shifts. Might ask a question.....what is your oil to non oxy gas, mixing ratio? This could be a result of too much oil.....or a motor problem related to ignition, carburation, or compression. Oil for these lower units is available at your OMC dealer, or of course on-line. As you must know, they need the special lube for elec. shift.
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Thank you as always, just ran again and it was way cleaner. I am using 50:1 mix. The lower unit oil was darkish but in no way creamy.

I need to get a set of muffs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...055783?hash=item54169412e7:g:AgMAAOSwxXZcXauP

Are these okay?
 
Sorry----Will not work on your motor.----Just accept the fact that the main water intake is the screen on the snout behind the propeller !!
 
racerone said:
Sorry----Will not work on your motor.----Just accept the fact that the main water intake is the screen on the snout behind the propeller !!
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Are any muffs meant to work? I quickly used the water in the barrel today test running. I want to replace impeller. Any advice?
 
Not sure about factory water feed adapters for this ole girl, but I have modified larger size hoses....like radiator.....to clamp on and supply reliable feed.
 
Wonder why I didn't buy one years back. Got so much junk around....I can rig up almost anything. Even tried trimming, modified, and epoxied 2 single line fittings together to make a double line coupling....it worked.....but too much trouble and time. But at over 100 bucks, it might be worth it.
 
What are one of the Ole Girls worth, I got the motor running, that was my goal.

Do I keep as a backup outboard or sell for newer age gear?
 
Of course there's lots of variables that affect the price of an older outboard but one of the most critical is the outward appearance of the motor. I would like to see a good set of pictures if that's possible. Some also had a alternator kit which adds to the value.
 
timguy said:
Of course there's lots of variables that affect the price of an older outboard but one of the most critical is the outward appearance of the motor. I would like to see a good set of pictures if that's possible. Some also had a alternator kit which adds to the value.
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Thank you. Please see below, I have the alternator as well. The whole package was gifted to me.



 
Motor should bring about $1000....alternators are nice to have on these. Whole outfit should bring $2500....nice trailer with paint job and new tires...... and if transom and floor is good, windshield not cracked and clear. That's prices here in Northern MN.
 
An ideal boat / motor for someone willing and able to do their own work.----All simple stuff that does not require the $100 / hr shop treatment.
 
racerone said:
An ideal boat / motor for someone willing and able to do their own work.----All simple stuff that does not require the $100 / hr shop treatment.
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you make me want to keep it and run it around a lake, I am in New York. The floor has some soft spots.

I need a drain plug and I may try to launch this thing for a test ride. Impeller will be coming soon in the mail. I wish you could tell me from pictures is the transom is going to flex and crack!
 
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Remove or slide the motor over.----Drill a test hole ( in a hidden spot ) to see if there is rotten plywood in the transom.-----You do not need a newer motor that has say an automatic mixing pump at $600.00.----That motor has a fuel pump that can be fixed for $6.00 if you are willing to read the books and learn how !!
 
Mark my words.....someday your gonna regret you ever sold that ole girl. I got nothin to regret....other than marrying the wrong woman the first time.....still have my first boat, first outboard, first bike, and first 2 cars.....got nothin' to regret.
 
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