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BF200A2 Hi temp alarm

Chachy71

Member
ISSUE:
I have twin 2003 BF200A2's. My port engine will go into a continuous alarm and the engine goes into limp mode after running at WOT for 20-25 minutes. I turn off the engine and re-start and it runs fine at lower RPM, say 4000, about the RPM I need to get on a plane.

ENGINE READINGS
I put my Healtech engine monitor on at the dock and did full throttle dock trials. The #1 engine cooling sensor reads about 206 at 3500, thats all the higher RPM the outboard would go at the dock even at WOT. The other two sensors were about 130. Since the one is was kinda high and the two in the exhaust were kinda low I'm thinking there's something wrong with the system not pressurizing correctly vice a faulty sensor.

Now if I'm running lower RPM, say 4000-4500 the engine doesn't consistently alarm, it only does it reliably at WOT. It would be nice to have a temp gauge to track the #1 sensor in the block. Any suggestions there would be appreciated.

WATER COOLING ISSUES
The boat was neglected by the prior owner. No thermostats, I know one of the pressure relief valves is stuck open and can only guess that the other is also stuck open. I'm thinking the pressure relief valves are not allowing the system to pressurizing sufficiently to allow effective heat transfer, meaning the water is moving too fast through the system to allow the heat to transfer to the water in the block. I must have knocked off the relief valve hose when I removed the VST because so the fitting is shooting water under the VST, that's how I know its stuck open. (Its on my list of things to fix.) I know the old owner stated this had been an issue when he owned the boat also.

My question is does this sound reasonable? I ran this by one of my engineering types at the office and he agreed.
 
Block sensor is supposed to run 30 degrees hotter than the exhaust sensors (1&2), that is normal. However, you do have a problem. I would do a full cooling system service and clean and install new thermostats. It might pay to remove the manifolds too and check the internal anodes as well as the drain pipe at the bottom back into the mount case, they can get restricted by heavy salt build up. Of course, also attend to the pressure relief valves.
 
When you remove the manifold you will see a 1/2" black 90degree black tube that connects the bottom of the manifold to the mountcase, you can't miss it.
 
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It looks like #8, hopefully Iang6766 will correct us if we are wrong. But it is another place for me to look. I'm pretty sure the exhaust manifolds have never been removed by the condition of the bolts. Hopefully I'll be able to find the blocked passage.

#7 is running from the thermostats to the exhaust manifold.
 
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