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BF225 changing the timing belt

Brian silk

Brian silk

Regular Contributor
Hey guys. I am changing the timing belt soon and don't have acces to the special tool to remove the alternator pulley. I see in the shop manual thet the TDC marks are under the alt. pulley. If I can slip the old belt out and the new one in, between the alt. pulley and the timing belt pulley, could I make a TDC mark on the alternator pulley to match the port and stb pulley marks, if I do it accurately? Our honda shop does not rent or loan the tools. I you think this is unwise, I will buy the tool. What do you think?
 
There is already a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. It is a small notch (It might even look like a scratch) on the bottom edge of the pulley. It should align with a mark just to the side of the lifting ring.

I am not sure if you can get a belt under it, I have never had to change one.

Be sure to follow the manual regarding aligning the camshafts and the adjustment.

Let us know if you get it on without removing the pulley.

Mike
 
Mike do you know if you can see the marks on the crankshaft pulley without removing the alternator pulley. It does not look like you can, that is why I thought about marking the crankshaft alternator pully.
 
What I am referring to as the crankshaft pulley is the pulley that the alternator belt is attached to. You should not have to remove it to check the mark. The smaller one under it is the timing belt pulley. I am just not sure about fitting a timing belt under it. The parts breakdown looks like things are very close there. The only 225 we have in stock is on a new boat shrink wrapped under a few inches of snow...so I can not physically check it out.

Mike
 
Reviving a very old thread here, but I'm about to change my 225 timing belt, and I've got the exact same question.

Does anyone know if you can change and align the timing belt on a 225 properly without removing the crankshaft pulley?
 
I have replaced the timing belt on both my BF200´s. I did not remove the crankshaft pulley, it does take a bit of work but you can get the belt out and in, I removed the tension pulley. The alternator belt has to be removed but does not require special tools. Just be very patient and careful, do not rush the job and triple check the timing marks once completed going back and forward several times, they must be spot on after Tension Pulley correct adjustment, one belt notch off on any of the two cams and you are in trouble. Have some threadlocker such as Loctite 243 or similar for the tension pulley. Special attention to the CKP Sensor when removing and installing the belt under the Crankshaft. Sparkplugs removal helps with the manual turning of the engine. Good luck!!
 
Thanks. Changed my timing belts and idler pulleys yesterday. I removed the crank pulley. No idea how you'd get the belt on without taking it off with the crank sensor right there, and it wasn't all that hard with a 4 foot cheater bar.

But I did figure out why I had been fighting the tensioner on one motor for a while. It would come loose every 50 hours or so and the tension procedure wouldn't really work right. The pin/dowel that slots into the small hole on the tensioner pulley had broken off. The pin/dowel is cast into the plate the tensioner belt bolts on to. I didn't even know it was supposed to be there until I did my other engine, and saw it, and it made the tensioning procedure a breeze.
 
Blacktimes said:
I have replaced the timing belt on both my BF200´s. I did not remove the crankshaft pulley, it does take a bit of work but you can get the belt out and in, I removed the tension pulley. The alternator belt has to be removed but does not require special tools. Just be very patient and careful, do not rush the job and triple check the timing marks once completed going back and forward several times, they must be spot on after Tension Pulley correct adjustment, one belt notch off on any of the two cams and you are in trouble. Have some threadlocker such as Loctite 243 or similar for the tension pulley. Special attention to the CKP Sensor when removing and installing the belt under the Crankshaft. Sparkplugs removal helps with the manual turning of the engine. Good luck!!
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I just changed my timing belt yesterday and when I took off the belt the cam position changed on the port side so I just rotated it clockwise until it was TDC #1 again. Was I supposed to go clockwise or counter clockwise?( don’t want to bend a valve)?

Because it moves after that I check all the valve clearance again and it was in spec.

It idles good. Does that mean I’m fine? Or do I need to run it to really find out if I’m in the clear?
 
If timing is correct, it doesn't matter which way you turn the motor, although it's good practice to turn it clockwise because of where the tensioner is situated. You usually turn the engine two revolutions after fitting the belt and then rechecking your marks. If it's a tooth out it will run normally but you'll have a significant loss of performance
 
iang6766 said:
If timing is correct, it doesn't matter which way you turn the motor, although it's good practice to turn it clockwise because of where the tensioner is situated. You usually turn the engine two revolutions after fitting the belt and then rechecking your marks. If it's a tooth out it will run normally but you'll have a significant loss of performance
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Copy, Thank you! I double checked the marks 2-3 full rotations and they look good. The timing belt and pulley job was easier than anticipated!
 
It is straight forward, the only thing I can warn of is not to over tighten it or you will shred it. Follow manual instructions, it will seem a little loose but it's supposed to be
 
iang6766 said:
It is straight forward, the only thing I can warn of is not to over tighten it or you will shred it. Follow manual instructions, it will seem a little loose but it's supposed to be
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Copy, thanks for the heads up! Are you talking about going clockwise 6teeth and back 3 teeth and let the tensioner apply the tension and tighten the tensoner bolt?
 
Just adding to this thread to help someone out. I too was able to remove and replace the belt without removing the crank pulley. This was on a 2020 BF250. Took a little massaging to get the teeth lined up on the crank and head pulleys but definitely can be done.
Rotate the belt flat and sneak it out between the crank pulley and the motor lift point.
Replaced the pulleys and the tensioner and rotated by hand 2 times to verify marks line up. All good.
 
fordfisherman said:
Just adding to this thread to help someone out. I too was able to remove and replace the belt without removing the crank pulley. This was on a 2020 BF250. Took a little massaging to get the teeth lined up on the crank and head pulleys but definitely can be done.
Rotate the belt flat and sneak it out between the crank pulley and the motor lift point.
Replaced the pulleys and the tensioner and rotated by hand 2 times to verify marks line up. All good.
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👍… how many hours on your 250? Any issues? Thinking about getting one 2023
 
fordfisherman said:
1560 hours. Still runs like new. Next maintenance item is the internal anodes in the exhaust manifolds but that job looks pretty straightforward.
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Nice! I did it and yes it’s not bad. Did you ever have to replace your co2 sensor? I heard Honda has issues with it but don’t know what year they fixed it
 
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