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Blew another seloniod on 1976 Ford 302

Checking the diagram...the exciter wire for the alternator should tie into the ignition switch instead of going to console (gauges). The wire from the ignition to the starter passes through the solenoid, which it should, but from the solenoid terminal is a wire to a yellow plug, you mention this could be for an ammeter, ok, but there should be a connect from the same terminal to the starter instead of a yellow plug that may or may not exist? Also from the ignition terminal on the solenoid is a wire to ground, so the ignition turns on passing current to the solenoid which sends it to a yellow plug and back to the ground contact at the solenoid? I guess since many other components are trafficked through the solenoid, including the alternator (which is fine if it's been converted to DC), that there is probably opportunity for either a drain here or maybe just enough capacitance to slowly crank the starter. But this is just from the diagram I know you guys have hashed a bunch of this out in the posts.
Mike
 
Does anyone have a data base that would tell me the number of teeth for my ring gear for my model number of my OMC outdrive? (engine serial # is: W524031. The OMC model is #990231M - 1976 Ford 302 CID Marine 190 HP)

The engine was running before I had it overhauled, but wouldn't rev over 1000 rpm without dying - it had blowback into the valvecovers. It is the same flywheel. - wish I had counted the teeth.

There doesn't seem to be any grinding sound from the starter. I threw away the original one - a mistake. I'm sure it had nine teeth. So if I have 164 teeth, instead of 157, the teeth may be a bit bigger, I assume. The starter I have is for a 157, so the nine teeth may be a bit small, if I have a 164.

You can see videos and more data on my boat at my website at www.sport-fishing-friends.com
 
i think the starter for either will have the same number of teeth...

If you have the 164 tooth flywheel and a starter for the 157 tooth flywheel, the starter gear is likely binding against the flywheel. The ring gear on the larger flywheel sits closer to the block
 
The starter I have says: NOSE EXTENDS 2 3/8" INTO FLYWHEEL. It also says it is compatable with the starter I found at West Marine.
Any way to find out which flywheel I have?
siluetae137 said:
Checking the diagram...the exciter wire for the alternator should tie into the ignition switch instead of going to console (gauges). The wire from the ignition to the starter passes through the solenoid, which it should, but from the solenoid terminal is a wire to a yellow plug, you mention this could be for an ammeter, ok, but there should be a connect from the same terminal to the starter instead of a yellow plug that may or may not exist? Also from the ignition terminal on the solenoid is a wire to ground, so the ignition turns on passing current to the solenoid which sends it to a yellow plug and back to the ground contact at the solenoid? I guess since many other components are trafficked through the solenoid, including the alternator (which is fine if it's been converted to DC), that there is probably opportunity for either a drain here or maybe just enough capacitance to slowly crank the starter. But this is just from the diagram I know you guys have hashed a bunch of this out in the posts.
Mike
Click to expand...
Hi Mike, Thanks for responding. I am going to re-wire all the wires from the key switch to the selonoid and to the alternator and voltage regulator and will dirct that wire directly to the key switch (I) terminal.
The wire to the yellow plug is a bit of a mystery. It looks like it goes toward the console, but most of the other wires from the yellow plug goes to the tilt selonoids and we were thinking it may go to the shift safety switch, which I believe has been bypassed by a wire that goes straight from the key switch (I) to the selonoid (I) terminal. The wire to the yellow plug is connected to the (S) terminal on the selonoid, which seems a bit weird to me, What needs power just when the starter is engaged?? and when not engaged, it is grounded at the starter - unless it is the switch to the shift safety.
Do you think this could be disconnected? I did disconnect it once and it didn't seem to make any difference - the only thing I didn't check was if the shift worked. The tilt worked and all the gauges. I put it back, since it didn't seem to help my slow crank. See my last schematic. If you have any idea about this, please let me know.
 
Great idea Neal, I would do the same, pick a starting point and work it one wire at a time. You will probably discover some things and realize the purpose of the yellow mystery along the way...oh and I noticed the blue wire from the voltage regulator (should be low amp at that point) gets funneled to the gauges. Make sure this also connects to the ignition switch accessory terminal, should be fine as it's the low amp side of the D+ at that point. Pretty sure this is the dummy light we all see when turning the key to the ACC position, indicating the system is charging.
 
Thanks Mike,
I was going to route that blue wire (it is actually purple) straight to the selonoid (I) terminal, as it connects to the key (I). Attached is the new schematic of how I plan to wire it, hopefully this weekend. Not sure if there is a a dummy light, and I don't think I have an ACC position - the key just has OFF, IGNITION and START
302 schematic as-is.jpg
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