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Honda BF60a Flush port clogged

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Richard_B

New member
Is there a way to unclog the Flush port from the inside (motor side). Flushing with garden hose mounted on the upgoing tube of the water pump (tailpiece) is working. The flush port is completely closed. Already emoved the flush valve and spring and even when blowing air with compressor gives no result
 
Hi Richard,

I'm no Honda 60A expert. I've never worked on one.
But it is common to see others mentioning the FUEL COOLER getting plugged up. See item 9 in the link below. In that depiction the reference F-3-30 points out the page where the two water hose nipples connect.


Below is the link to page F-3-30


On that page note the reference
E-18-10 that directs you back to the page with the fuel cooler. You can see those numbers printed in the lower right corner of MOST parts pages but not always.

If you find the blockage IS inside the fuel cooler, I do not recommend using full shop air pressure to clear it as that might damage your cooler. I don't know. I would use care handling and clearing the cooler.

The blockage could be in the hoses (items 5 and 6) or inside the mount case itself.

You can see in the link below (page number E-06)


On this page (E-06) you can easily see that the passage inside the mount case connecting the two flush hoses is a 90° turn. 90° turns are notorious places for trapping debris and creating blockages.
Unlike the fuel cooler, I think you should be able to use full shop air without a problem. However, it's always smart to proceed cautiously so using regulated pressure in stages is probably the wisest course of action.

There are other areas of this engine's cooling system that have been discussed on this site but I need to go for now. I will put that info in another few paragraphs for you when I return later. But for now, you have enough to get you started checking things out.

Good luck.
 
Hi,
Back again.

Just wanted to point out some other things that owners have commented about on these 60hp models.
The voltage regulater/rectifier assembly on these is water cooled. Item 8 in the link below.
I know of at least one instance that someone wtote about a salt or mineral deposit buildup behind the regulator. They believed that cleaning that buildup out solved an ongoing overheat condition they had been experiencing. Also note item #6...the sacrificial anode. If you go in there, be sure to replace that anode and the screw (item 31) that holds it in.

If you leave that screw in for too long, it could sieze and snap off. Spray it with PB BLASTER well in advance of trying to move it. Some people suggest that, if it's difficult to move by turning it counter clockwise, to try "nudging" it clockwise to see if it will move in that direction first and then try backing it out. Don't reuse that screw even if it looks ok.


Another area that almost ALL models that operate in salt water can experience is mineral buildup and blockage behind the water jacket cover (item 22 in link below).

Note the TWO anodes.(items 1) and their holding screws (items 47) in the link:


Hope this information helps you and good luck.
 
Hi JGMO, thanks for the detailed explenation. But the clogging is only on the fush port side and I'm looking for a way to get to that from the inside. The flush port is going in by a 90 degrees pipe and the problem is directly after that.
 
Well, I don't know. Do you think that yours is a "factory" set up and came that way? If so, I listed everything I could find on the parts pages except the flush cap on the stbd. side under cover. I'll include that now. See item 1 in the link below


You can see the page reference for that component's associated parts back to the F-3-30 page that I attached in my first reply. The only item I see that resembles the 90° pipe you describe is item 32 on page F-3-30 so I don't think that I'm understanding what it is you're wanting to do.

i have outboards with "add on" custom flush systems used for convenience and access to overcome situations where flushing has particular obstacles to work around such as a boat in a stack rack or hanging in a sling but I don't think that's what you're describing here.

Having not actually worked on one of these, models I'm afraid that I'm missing the point and have reached the limit of what I can offer to help you with this.

If it was baseball, I have just struck out.

Sorry..
 
jgmo said:
Well, I don't know. Do you think that yours is a "factory" set up and came that way? If so, I listed everything I could find on the parts pages except the flush cap on the stbd. side under cover. I'll include that now. See item 1 in the link below


You can see the page reference for that component's associated parts back to the F-3-30 page that I attached in my first reply. The only item I see that resembles the 90° pipe you describe is item 32 on page F-3-30 so I don't think that I'm understanding what it is you're wanting to do.

i have outboards with "add on" custom flush systems used for convenience and access to overcome situations where flushing has particular obstacles to work around such as a boat in a stack rack or hanging in a sling but I don't think that's what you're describing here.

Having not actually worked on one of these, models I'm afraid that I'm missing the point and have reached the limit of what I can offer to help you with this.

If it was baseball, I have just struck out.

Sorry..
Click to expand...
Thanks anyway for your support. What I wanted to achieve is remove the blockage from the inside, the 90 degree flush port is completely blocked
the 90 degree pipe I mean is where part 30 going into the motor
 
Yes! That is page F-3-30 which I initially posted (without all the pop ups) and explained that there's a 90° turn to that passage that can be a "catch all" for debris that causes blockages to form. As I indicated before, if you think the blockage is "in there" you can use shop air to try and clear it. Try first going into the port facing forward then switch to trying the port facing left or port side to see if.you can get movement. You can also try a stff wire or a long shaft mini screwdriver to see if you can make any progress. Harbor Freight sells those little screwdrivers in very long sizes and they don't cost much.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Yes! That is page F-3-30 which I initially posted (without all the pop ups) and explained that there's a 90° turn to that passage that can be a "catch all" for debris that causes blockages to form. As I indicated before, if you think the blockage is "in there" you can use shop air to try and clear it. Try first going into the port facing forward then switch to trying the port facing left or port side to see if.you can get movement. You can also try a stff wire or a long shaft mini screwdriver to see if you can make any progress. Harbor Freight sells those little screwdrivers in very long sizes and they don't cost much.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Your help is greatly appreciated. I thought you mentioned the fuel cooler in your first comment and overlooked the part about the 90 degree part.
I already use a stiff wire (bike handbreak cable) and shop air. No movement at all.
 
Yes, it sometimes breaks my brain why engineers would come up with designs like that. You would think that a 5 year old playing with dolls would know better than to put an INACCESSIBLE, 90° passageway for a critical fluid encapsulated in a major component but there's the proof that it happens.

Have you tried soaking it with vinegar or CLR? If the blockage is primarily minerals...which it probably is....then one.of those might soften it up enough to work through it. Salt Away is another product people use for build up like that. You could try mixing one of those with hot water too.

Sorry, but Honda has given you a tough nut to crack with that passage. It's probably going to take some real patience to clean that out.

And, if there's minerals built up in there, I would wonder what things might be looking like in the engine interior that I pointed out. To the extent that I would be tempted to pull the water jacket cover and have a look. Because, the cylinder head is where the highest heat develops and heat is a catalyst for minerals attaching to metal.

Good luck.
 
I soaked it with vinegar. Nothing is going in, Can put a wire in for maybe 2 cm The passages behind the water jacket where a bit dirty (minerals) but after flushing it with vinegar thru the waterpump tube. Image was before flushing, this was the most dirty part
 

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Is that rust colored item around the Phillips screw one of the zinc anodes?

And are you saying that you were able to clear the blockage in the 90°
passage?
 
jgmo said:
Is that rust colored item around the Phillips screw one of the zinc anodes?

And are you saying that you were able to clear the blockage in the 90°
passage?
Click to expand...
yes, you're right, is a anode. I have to replace them. And NO, the blockage is still there. After flushing the engine a day with vinegar thru the waterpump tube all chanels behind the water jacket cover are looking clean.
IMG_6344.jpg
 
Well, that anode looks pretty bad to me. I think getting in there was a very good move.

Makes me wonder what things look like inside the head.

Any idea about how many hours are on this engine?

I wish that I had some better ideas for cleaning the 90 out but I'm not coming up with any. Hopefully someone else will offer something that will be effective.

Looks like you're doing some good though so keep chipping away at it.

Good luck.
 
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