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Identifying O-ring found in carb bowl - evinrude 6hp 1988 e6rccs

G

GigaShad

Contributing Member
While cleaning old carb I found the black o-ring in the bowl. It was busted. I can’t find it on the parts diagram and am trying to confirm
Where it goes inside the carb. Link to photos
 
Likely put in there by someone with a hope and a prayer to fix an issue.----What is this motor doing / not doing?
 
GigaShad said:
While cleaning old carb I found the black o-ring in the bowl. It was busted. I can’t find it on the parts diagram and am trying to confirm
Where it goes inside the carb. Link to photos
Click to expand...
Parts Diagrams show 2 different carbs, early and late production. I don't know how to ID which you have, but each diagram is linked below. The piece you're holding looks like Part # 0397189 - NOZZLE WELL and should have Part #0338883 UPPER GASKET, which appears to be the broken O-ring you show. I'm with Racer, the one you're holding looks like a wing and a prayer, "I'll get something close at the hardware store" kind of fix. I don't see a complete parts breakdown in the 0439073 CARB REPAIR KIT, but in the pictures it looks like the upper gasket is included.

E6RCCS EARLY PRODUCTION CARB DIAGRAM

E6RCCS LATE PRODUCTION CARB DIAGRAM
 
kevinj said:
Parts Diagrams show 2 different carbs, early and late production. I don't know how to ID which you have, but each diagram is linked below. The piece you're holding looks like Part # 0397189 - NOZZLE WELL and should have Part #0338883 UPPER GASKET, which appears to be the broken O-ring you show. I'm with Racer, the one you're holding looks like a wing and a prayer, "I'll get something close at the hardware store" kind of fix. I don't see a complete parts breakdown in the 0439073 CARB REPAIR KIT, but in the pictures it looks like the upper gasket is included.

E6RCCS EARLY PRODUCTION CARB DIAGRAM

E6RCCS LATE PRODUCTION CARB DIAGRAM
Click to expand...
I have identified mine as late production. I ended up reassembling the carb after cleaning it. The jets were pretty bad.

Basically the engine fires right up when I prime the fuel, but then bogs down and dies in about 15-20 seconds, every time. It will then fire right up again if I prime the fuel again.

So it seems to be a fuel delivery issue, for which I’ve ordered a new fuel pump.

Also though, after researching, it appears the engine came with the incorrect spark plugs (B9hs-10). And they were gapped at .040.

hard to say for sure, but looks like this needs B7HS plugs gapped at .030. I can’t locate anything service manuals though. So I purchased the new plugs.

Here are some photos of the fuel pump and old spark plugs
 
A simple fix for those pumps is a new diaphragm.-----I have a bunch of new diaphragms on hand.----I would never squander beer tokens on a new pump for these small outboards.
 
GigaShad said:
Also though, after researching, it appears the engine came with the incorrect spark plugs (B9hs-10). And they were gapped at .040.

hard to say for sure, but looks like this needs B7HS plugs gapped at .030. I can’t locate anything service manuals though. So I purchased the new plugs.

Here are some photos of the fuel pump and old spark plugs
Click to expand...
I've always run Champion spark plugs only in my Evrinrudes. I know NGK has many cross references, and for some engines it might not make a bit of difference, but the OEM spec is Champions and that's what I run. According to the Evinrude Champion Spark Plug Guide found on this site, the correct plug for your engine is a QL86C gapped at 0.030".
 
kevinj said:
I've always run Champion spark plugs only in my Evrinrudes. I know NGK has many cross references, and for some engines it might not make a bit of difference, but the OEM spec is Champions and that's what I run. According to the Evinrude Champion Spark Plug Guide found on this site, the correct plug for your engine is a QL86C gapped at 0.030".
Click to expand...
Damn. Well, the ones I purchased are very similar, just one heat range off. The plugs in it currently are 3 heat ranges off. I think they should work.
 
Heat range makes a world of difference in a 2-stroke; Too cold and it runs rich, too hot and you melt a hole in the piston. My preference is always OEM spec plugs.
 
I may change them. But if it can run with the plug that’s two ranges off, it will surely run with one that’s only one off.
 
You and the motor will not notice one heat range off.----Installing a new water pump impeller every 5 years is important.-----Your motor does not have an overheat warning horn.----Your motor does not have an overheat shut down feature either.
 
Got her running. Fuel pump replaced, (incorrect) spark plugs re-gapped to .030 and carb jets cleaned.

Any advice on tuning? Standard amount of turns out from closed on pilot/fuel air adjustment screws?

Link to video
 
GigaShad said:
Got her running. Fuel pump replaced, (incorrect) spark plugs re-gapped to .030 and carb jets cleaned.

Any advice on tuning? Standard amount of turns out from closed on pilot/fuel air adjustment screws?

Link to video
Click to expand...
Good deal. I don't know specifically the jet tuning on this engine, but on the 9.9 and 15 engines I believe the starting place is 2 turns out, then adjust in small increments from there.
 
kevinj said:
Good deal. I don't know specifically the jet tuning on this engine, but on the 9.9 and 15 engines I believe the starting place is 2 turns out, then adjust in small increments from there.
Click to expand...
Same as a dirt bike? What is your process for fine tuning?
 
racerone said:
You and the motor will not notice one heat range off.----Installing a new water pump impeller every 5 years is important.-----Your motor does not have an overheat warning horn.----Your motor does not have an overheat shut down feature either.
Click to expand...
Do you have any additional advice for a beginner boater as far as mechanical checkpoints before taking it out on the lake?

I see several zerk fittings, which I will grease with marine grade grease.

I just got the new impeller which I’ll also install.

The prop has some small dents, which I plan to buff out with a flap disc.

I have two paddles, life vests an anchor and fishing poles ;)
 
GigaShad said:
Same as a dirt bike? What is your process for fine tuning?
Click to expand...
If it bogs on take off you're too lean so give the screw 1/8 turn out and keep adjusting until if goes away. However, if the engine burbles you're too rich, so turn in 1/8 and retry.
 
GigaShad said:
Do you have any additional advice for a beginner boater as far as mechanical checkpoints before taking it out on the lake?

I see several zerk fittings, which I will grease with marine grade grease.

I just got the new impeller which I’ll also install.

The prop has some small dents, which I plan to buff out with a flap disc.

I have two paddles, life vests an anchor and fishing poles ;)
Click to expand...
Yes, grease in the fittings. You should have one on each side of the tile tube and one on the steering pivot tube. There's also possibly grease fittings on the hood latch.

Be careful using a flap disc on the leading edges of the prop. If you remove too much material you can throw off the balance. I've cleaned up edges plenty of times, just make sure each blade is even.

That's a good list of safety items to start. The US Coast Guard Minimum Safety Equipment Guidelines has a comprehensive list. Some don't apply to a small boat like yours, but I would suggest you add the following:
1) Fire Extinguisher
2) Dock Lines
3) Horn or whistle
4) Lights. (I use a set of clamp on, AAA powered LED lights on a little tinny. They last a long time, but keep spare batteries just in case)
5) Flashlight or flares.

In my tinny I just use a plastic create to keep most of this stuff and a cheap plastic ammo box to hold the things I want to keep dry.
 
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