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Just picked up a Johnson Colt 1.2HP need help - no manual.

Eric Fontana

New member
Hi, I just picked up a Johnson Colt 1.2 HP Outboard off craigslist. It looks as if it has never ever been run, it was the womans husband who passed, and it was stored in
their garage, it doesn't have a nick on it. Model JCOESE made in Canada.

My questions:

1. I assume it's 50:1 ratio Fuel:Oil like most Johnson's.
2. There seems to be a vent on the Gas Cap, this must be opened to run correct?
3. There seems to be a fuel shut off below the tank, I assume clockwise to open?
4. Is the pull out lever/knob on the front the choke?

Anyone who has one of these can you comment on what starting and running procedures are?

Thanks.

Eric
 
Hi, I just picked up a Johnson Colt 1.2 HP Outboard off craigslist. It looks as if it has never ever been run, it was the womans husband who passed, and it was stored in their garage, it doesn't have a nick on it. Model JCOESE made in Canada. My questions:

1. I assume it's 50:1 ratio Fuel:Oil like most Johnson's.
2. There seems to be a vent on the Gas Cap, this must be opened to run correct?
3. There seems to be a fuel shut off below the tank, I assume clockwise to open?
4. Is the pull out lever/knob on the front the choke?

Anyone who has one of these can you comment on what starting and running procedures are? Thanks. Eric

Eric.... Model JCOESE indicates by the "ES" within the model number would be a 1990 model. Answers are:

1 - Yes, 50/1 would be the mixture.
2 - Yes, the vent must be open. If air can't get in, fuel can't get out.
3 - If that's simply a lever that turns 90 degrees, the turn is your judgement call.
3 - If the lever is a screw type valve (In/Out Threads), clockwise would be to close.
4 - Yes, that's the choke lever.

Should there be adjustable needle valves on that engine... and if so, whether the carburetor has one or two adjustable needle valves... see below:

********************
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

--------------------------------------------------
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
 
00r0r_uW4bX8ro8o_1200x900.jpgThere doesn't appear to be any knobs on the front for adjusting.

00V0V_1EDoWrsEq3k_1200x900.jpg
 
And I think both adjustinh knobs are missing.

Could be racerone. I couldn't see the pictures clearly enough. It just dawned on me that I did have the parts book for that engine so I looked it up. Yep, it does have both a low and high adjustable needle valve. I appreciate the update.
 
In which case, the carburetor apparently incorporates fixed jets (no adjusting).

EDIT: The knobs are missing. Are the brass needle valves still there?

There aren't any knobs, and I don't think there ever were. It has a plastic insert in the center where the first knob would be. And there is a screw below where the second one is.
In any case, I put gas/oil in it and it fired up on the first pull!
 
There aren't any knobs, and I don't think there ever were. It has a plastic insert in the center where the first knob would be. And there is a screw below where the second one is.

Very strange! My parts book shows that model engine as having two adjustable needle valves but obviously as you've stated above (and the pictures), it does not. At any rate, we're glad that it runs and that you're apparently happy with it.
 
Parts book shows screwdriver slots in the ends of the needle valves. Hey, this was a very low budget motor. Besides, if it truly is never used, they were adjusted at the factory and do not need anything other than very minor tweaking when you get it on the lake. Maybe not even that.
 
OK I got it fingered out there are two sets of needle valves. If you want to add the adjustment knobs you need to get the two needles. Or you can just adjust both with a screwdriver just pop the cap off for the slow sped adjustment and the lower one for high speed. They make it nice if your running at different altitudes you just adjust on the fly no tools.
 
Good helpful thread! :) Just wanted to say I've had my service done With Servicing Stop and they are really good! They picked my car up from mine on time, took my car to a local garage, called me up to confirm anything that needed doing and dropped my car back off to mine, all within the time they said! Quick and easy, would recommend to anyone who has a busy life or just in general!
 
The motor has " reverse " so to speak.-------------When you turn the motor 180 degrees this lever locks it to prevent it kicking out of the water at higher throttle settings.
 
Getting back to those knobs.... at 10.99 per knob (Yeah, That'll be the day!), I can understand why the knobs wouldn't be there even if the needle valve were.
 
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