Logo
FULL SITE MENU

My 2006 bf 40 auto enrichment choke switch

Y

Yoeman

Member
I replaced my bf 50 2002 with a bf 40 2006 and the 2006 motor used a top mount control box that I can’t use on my AB rib as no room on the console to install it.
I’ve set the motor up with the old side mount control but would love to know if anyone has set this up so the auto choke can work maybe a push button switch?
The motor is almost impossible to start cold with no choke function
Thanks
 
Hi,
You can't do what you want to do as the auto choke isn't electrically actuated by anything. It consists of one item, the "bystarter assembly"...
....item 18 in the link below.


The bystarter is already defaulted to "cold start enrichment" and is then "turned off" electrically after the engine runs approximately 90 seconds.

You can remove and test the bystarter to make sure it isn't stuck in the "off" position and that should be the first step in troubleshooting this issue.
But, I can tell you that is a fairly rare occurance. The bystarters are pretty reliable devices.

It's much more common for poor cold start to wind up being a #1 carb (top) issue or cracked Service Enrichment (SE) tubes...
...items 24 in the link.

One other thing that will cause hard starting is tight valve adjustment. So, if you purchased the outboard used and haven't checked that yet then you might want to now.

Hope this helps.

Good luck.
 
My issue is the 2006 motor came with the ignition switch that mounts away from the control
The key shows a push for choke so I was thinking that was what activated the bystarter ?
It sounds like that may not be my issue
I have never liked the auto enrichment or bystarter system
My full carb cleaning did not include removing the capped jets as I didn’t want to break them off so I did not sync them and still have a slight rough idle and stumble on acceleration
If I understand this the Ignition switch push feature may be for the older solenoid style choke ?
Thanks for all the help.
I don’t want to give up yet
Lol
 
Yoeman said:
My issue is the 2006 motor came with the ignition switch that mounts away from the control
The key shows a push for choke so I was thinking that was what activated the bystarter ?
It sounds like that may not be my issue
I have never liked the auto enrichment or bystarter system
My full carb cleaning did not include removing the capped jets as I didn’t want to break them off so I did not sync them and still have a slight rough idle and stumble on acceleration
If I understand this the Ignition switch push feature may be for the older solenoid style choke ?
Thanks for all the help.
I don’t want to give up yet
Lol
Click to expand...
 
Just my opinion but it's not a "full carb cleaning" if you don't remove the mixture screws.

And, you really need to synch the carbs to get a smooth idle and maximum performance.

I explained in your other post that the bystarter can't be "activated" as it is pre-set to "full rich" at start up.

The Honda Marine Carburetion Manual is a beautiful thing and you can get one here under the Support Materials heading.

Honda Marine | Shop Manuals Publications | Honda Power Products Support Publications

publications.powerequipment.honda.com publications.powerequipment.honda.com
 
Thanks for all the info
I’m going to by the manual and an inexpensive carb synch gauge and see how that works out
I had the carbs off on my bf 50 2002 a number of times and looking back I believe using the gasket on the manifold side without replacing it may have caused my water in oil issues because it may not have sealed around the water jacket.
Sadly the shop that diagnosed it said he needed to do the head gasket and broke a bolt off in the head.
The local Honda mechanic said he has never seen a bf head gasket fail in 9 years. That really got my attention!
He then drilled it out in such a poor angle had to tap it and use a non standard bolt
That engine is a parts one now !!
It still mix’s
All good stuff in the site
 
Carb cleaning has been completed but the motor will not start from cold or at least is super difficult to get it running
I’ve removed the bystarter and inspected the seal plus the pin
I tried starting it with the pin removed and it stumbled and did run
Did I miss cleaning that tub that the the needle fits in
Can the carbs be choked manually?
I didn’t measure the needle after it ran but I’m guessing that the next step
If the needle was stuck in full lean would it start?
 
My issue on hard start and rough running was remedied by removing the carbs again and cleaning the by starter and pipe that runs from the needle valve down
I believe the bigger issue that I missed on the original cleaning was the bowl on carb 1 has a small area that catch’s fuel and transfer it from the by starter or auto enriched to the carb on cold starts
It was difficult to clean out so I now see why the ultrasonic cleaner would help
 
Back
Top