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New User Help: Alpha 1 Gen 1 Sterndrive. Mercruiser 165

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Markymakrcalifornia

New member
I bought a project boat. (and have learned the meaning of BOAT) Break out another thousand x4.

82 Renken. 165 Mercruiser. Circa 1982

I had a local shop rebuild to the tune of 3500 the outdrive. Everything was resealed and a new gimbal bearing. Also had to have the floor repaired where the IL 6 bolts to the floor. When I bought it (for almost nada) the drive needed work. As we got into it the costs went higher and higher.

OK--that aside.

My boy and I put it in the water yesterday and we have a pretty good leak at the transom. The boy put his hands alongside the bottom of the engine towards the rear of the inner transom. He could feel two nickel/quarter sized machine holes side by side where the water was coming in.. We only had it partially in the water still on the trailer. The bilge could barely keep up. The holes are at the base of the inner plate against the transom (inner).

So, I have two over-the-counter shop manuals. In reviewing, and reviewing GOOGLE Searches, on "TRANSOM LEAKS" I am drawing a blank. I know the shop here in Fresno, Cal was pricey but alleged to be good. They are the Mercruiser dealer. I am leaning towards several possibilities which I would have to farm out to another shop. Recommendations from locals are directing me to a guy who I am going to talk to.

Where could the water be coming in at? That gimbel bearing housing base at the outer transom? Those two bolt with a rubber plug over the heads there at the bottom of the housing? Surely there must be a seal down there. I am going to talk to the re builder this morning but they are $$$$. So if the back of the boat has to come apart I will go elsewhere.

Looking inside the outdrive I can see new hoses, clamps, but I cannot physically get behind the motor YET--today I may need to climb back in there with a light to look at the back of the motor. I hope the bellows is not full of water, but the boat never went fully into the water, just enough to find where we had a leak. Which was about 4-5" up from the base of the gimble housing.

I am learning. Yeah I bought a money pit but it will serve my purposes once it it running.

Mark in Fresno
 
At the bottom of the inner transom plate there are two stove bolt type attaching bolts with nuts. They are usually rotted off on a boat this old. On the outside of the boat on the bottom of the transom assembly you can see the two bolts. Some are flat rounded, some have a stud for a anode. Either way chances are they are in need of replacing. If you can reach the holes with your fingers there is a chance you can replace them without removing the engine. If this is indeed what is leaking.

BTW, Don't pay to have anythig rebuilt in the future unless the part is no longer available in good working order used. Tons of good used parts for this drive system out there. Average used drive is about 600.00 here in Jersey.
 
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Possible penetrations that may leak:
Shift cable bellows
Sea water pump supply hose connecting fitting within the Gimbal Housing
drive shaft bellows
hydraulic hose manifold
Up high.... it may be the steering spindle arm pivot seal

6.gif

When you say
Everything was resealed
Click to expand...
what all did this include?


For $3.5K I'd have to assume that the transom housing (Gimbal Housing) was removed, checked and resealed... yes/no?
If so, why would you NOT ask the original installer to correct the problem?

.
 
I'm already into this boat this far and I do not have the tools or the skill to do this myself. I am competent but due to an accident involving a big rig I am not capable of servicing this boat myself.

The 3500 included a complete reseal of the outdrive, a new jackshaft, gimbel bearing, bellows, and re sealing, then they found the floor at the front of the motor was bad that added a grand...RnR plus the out source work. @ 100 an hour it adds up fast.

I just talked to the shop, they want the boat back. They are thinking exhaust might be leaking, maybe we might get lucky to find those bolts just leaking. They are standing behind their work....but if it is a transom seal its 10 hours labor to remove the motor and all the "stuff".

So basically I am at the mercy of a shop.
 
Let me ask yet another problem that I will need to solve soon. Fuel pump and some electrical issues.

The boat came with a Carter electric fuel pump with a cover over the mechanical fuel pump on the block. I was told that it will not pass
if I happen to be inspected. So I put an automotive specific mechanical fuel pump on this boat. I know the Marine one was anywhere from $125- on up to $250 which is what NAPA quoted. Can I run this auto type fuel pump? I am tempted to put another new electric pump on.

Issue two: Power at the ignition switch. I ran a jumper from the ignition switchable side (of the ignition switch) ((power on)) to the old electric fuel pump power side. Previous owner had it wired to the coil-. I get no power from the jumper when I use a test light. I ground to the battery and nothing. I ground to the dash board I get power. I was grounded to the block. Then I grounded to the battery but still no juice from the line coming from the dash ignition switch. I really would feel better with an electric fuel pump. I am tempted to put in a toggle switch like I have on my Tomahawk Airplane. Throw the switch to ON -turn the key to start.

So do I need to run a ground from the battery and connect it to the dash to get a decent ground?

BTW I only at 4.75 at the power side of the coil when I turned the key to ON. I thought I was to get 12v. Points looked good when I popped the cap btw. PO at least did a tune up.
 
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Markymakrcalifornia said:
I bought a project boat. (and have learned the meaning of BOAT) Break out another thousand x4.

82 Renken. 165 Mercruiser. Circa 1982

I had a local shop rebuild to the tune of 3500 the outdrive. Everything was resealed and a new gimbal bearing. Also had to have the floor repaired where the IL 6 bolts to the floor. When I bought it (for almost nada) the drive needed work. As we got into it the costs went higher and higher.

OK--that aside.

My boy and I put it in the water yesterday and we have a pretty good leak at the transom. The boy put his hands alongside the bottom of the engine towards the rear of the inner transom. He could feel two nickel/quarter sized machine holes side by side where the water was coming in..

Mark in Fresno
Click to expand...

This sentence in your original post makes me think it is the lower mounting bolts are rotted away.
 
I sure HOPE so. The shop (Clovis Marine) took me for a major dollar ride. I have been told twice by neighbors who have boats DO NOT GO BACK. But not knowing if the shop screwed their work up. Worst case scenario is $1000 more. I went out and looked at those bolt, they have the cover over them, but they were not removed when I did the initial work. Maybe, lets hope maybe....
 
Wait, How close together were the two holes?about 1.5 /2 inches apart? If yes, there is a good chance your exhaust is leaking like the shop said. Problem is, if these bolts are missing and the shop did not take the assembly out as Rick suggested above, the transom assembly is rotted around the mating surface of the exhaust pipe.
 
I'm taking it to a shop, The lower bolts with those rubber caps are on each side at the bottom of the gimbel housing,
I am thinking the original shop missed this but I am not willing to risk paying them 100 an hour on my dime to re correct their work.

So its going to an older guy here locally that the cop friends of mine all use for their fishing boats.
 
Sealing a drive does not normally involve the re-sealing of a Gimbal Housing.
You need to watch and understand the verbiage.

If the Gimbal Housing had been removed and included, the exhaust Y pipe would have been removed.
If removed, it would have required new O-rings upon re-installation.... no question about that.

I'm not buying that the Gimbal Housing was removed for re-sealing!
Perhaps they've been caught with their pants down now, and will correct what you paid for, and that may not have actually been done in the first place.
Just say'n!

But... let's not get the cart ahead of the horse here:
Look at your work scope, your invoice and your parts list.
That becomes your forensic friend.
Ask someone with knowledge to go over this with you and compare the invoice, the work scope and the parts list...., against work scope that had actually been performed.
If you are now convinced that you were charged for work scope that did not occur, move forward with a formal complaint.

Don't be surprised if you were taken advantage of.
Be thankful if you were not.

Do a Google search key wording the shop's name and "Complaints against XYZ Marine" "Bad dealings with XYZ...... "Don't trust XYZ..... "Ripped off by XYZ...... and keep changing your key words.
If they're dirty, you can bet that someone has posted on the Internet accordingly.


Edit with an additional thought and question:

Did your drive look surprisely new and shinny after the $3.5k worth of work?
Some shops who are "open" shops may be able to use SEI as a replacement.
SEI provides a complete (minus Gimbal housing) drive (upper unit and lower unit) for around $1,500-1,600 or so.
Is there a SEI decal on the drive now?

Again.... just say'n.

.
 
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Can I run this auto type fuel pump?
Click to expand...
Your boat will explode and kill you when it leaks. Get it off and install a marine rated pump. Make sure the leak hose from the pump to the carb is in place. They sell it here; Mallory brand is cheaper. I paid $65 for a Carter about 2004.
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MAL9-35419&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

I only at 4.75 at the power side of the coil when I turned the key to ON. I thought I was to get 12v.
Click to expand...
That is correct. In the START position the coil gets 12 vdc but drops to 4.75 vdc in the RUN or ON position.
I really would feel better with an electric fuel pump. I am tempted to put in a toggle switch like I have on my Tomahawk Airplane.
Click to expand...
Use a momentary push button primer switch not a toggle. Someone can post the wiring schematic for an electric pump. The run voltage has to come from the oil pressure circuit using a NO pressure switch whereby it will turn the pump on w/oil pressure and off w/o it. The pump is wired to run from the starter when it is engaged and the oil pressure switch kicks in when the engine starts and the starter disengages.
 
It was taken to another shop on recommendation from a retired cop friend of mine. This new shop stood and shook their head at the invoice.
Tomorrow they will diagnose it. They told me they would have no problem calling Dave at Clovis Marine--with a recommendation on warranty work, but if it is something else, then its on me.

Since I lost faith in the dealer/1st shop repair, I am now in good hands. The new shop doubted that the lower two bolts were leaking, they are leaning towards the exhaust or even the large gasket itself on the gimbel housing.

Either way tomorow I will have a professional diagnoses and will continue from there.

STAND BY FOR UPDATE on Tues.

The new shop said this was a stout boat with a good motor/drive combo. I just got raped by the first shop in regards to parts and labor...
 
The new shop called. My boy and I went out to view the boat. My son showed the owner where he felt water intrusion when we were backed into the water but still on the boat. The boy told the owner how he ran his hand back behind the IL 6 motor, and felt two openings about the size of a nickel close together where water was coming out.

In the boneyard was an Alpha One outdrive. It was open to I could see into it. The owner showed me where the exhaust port was, and below it was two holes which apply only to V-8's. My son swears that is where he could feel the water coming in. The owner showed me a large 3" tube that is the exhaust pipe. It all began to make sense to me then. I could see where the exhaust would come out of the motor then down to the
outdrive.

So on Tues, he is going to fill the under side of the motor with water. He told me he will know where the water is escaping where the leak is.

The motor will need to be removed, and the outdrive but not to the tune of a grand. He viewed the other shops repair and shook his head. He told me I had good instincts that the first shop was seeing me as a cash cow. And I am not the first person who has brought repairs to his shop. He said they do quality work but you are at their mercy. I feared that the first shop would not be honest in telling me both of us screwed up. So rather than the burden being put on me, I went for a 2nd opinion which I trust.

I will know tomorrow (Tues the 3rd) if it was rotted or badly assembled exhaust pipe connection, or pipe. Either way we are zeroing in on the leak.


Lastly, we are swapping out the fuel pump for a legit model as guyjg suggested. I have no desire to be launched into the State of Nevada with an exploding boat. Albeit, it might be a thrill but not up high on my TO DO Lists.

I did see a Ford motor sitting next to my boat. I kept looking at the head trying to figure out where the heck have I seen this head at. Oh yeah! It's a 460 head on a 4 cylinder motor. So Ford chopped a 460 in half and made a boat motor for Mercruiser. Slick.
 
Markymakrcalifornia said:
So on Tues, he is going to fill the under side of the motor with water. He told me he will know where the water is escaping where the leak is.
Click to expand...
I've been a rather anal mechanic since the 60's... both Auto and Heavy equipment... hydraulics/pneumatics/electrical and mechanical, etc, and with one or two fingers always in HP Auto.
Been doing the Mercs (no longer) and Volvo Pentas for about 23 years or so.
In either auto or marine, I have never had general success in locating a suction leak while using pressure.... and I have never had general success in locating a pressure leak while using vacuum.
Essentially, that's what he'd be doing if he were to fill the engine bay with water (in order to find a leak that is leaking from the outside in).
That would be like a Liberal trying to pull himself up while standing in a bucket and pulling on the handle.

The Merc mechanic should know of all the possible areas where this could be leaking, and if he'll use a paper towel with the boat in the water, he should be able to pin point the leak....... or at least narrow it down.

Don't mean to come across negative here.... but I'd suggest that you don't get yourself duped twice.

.
 
Markymakrcalifornia said:
So Ford chopped a 460 in half and made a boat motor for Mercruiser.
Click to expand...
No... not exactly.
The Merc 170 cylinder head is 460 Ford, and possibly the connecting rods and pistons (not certain), but the rest is Mercruiser's own aluminum block engine.

Your 165 in-line 6 cylinder engine is the GM 250 cu in engine.
Great little engines, by the way.

.
 
I specifically bought this boat for the 250 6. I passed on a OMC powered 302 Ford motor after getting chewed out for even considering an OMC.
I passed a Volvo Penta that had the transom all broke up.

I bought this boat for the size. 19+ feet. Its a boat anchor in weight. I first towed it with a Napz powered Nissan 4x4. Which in itself did a decent job except there was no margin of power. The 4x4 unit would be nice pulling up and out of the water.

I tow it with a Jeep 4.0 4x4 Grand Cherokee. You can feel it back there. This whole mess is heavy.

I told the 2nd shop this morning that there are two foreclosed homes in my neigbhorhood with green pools. I should back this whole unit up and dump it in their pool. That way I could find the leak. We got a good laugh.

My instructions (since I already am buried financially into this mess) is to pull the motor, re check each and every repair previously done, and seal the transom. At this point I am 75-80% finished. So let's bite the bullet and fix this monster so I can go fishing!

Learning experience! I am looking forward to having a stout boat --albeit it is no showpiece, that I can drop in the lake, go check out the eye candy, do some fishing, check out the eagles nesting up the backside of Pine Flat and who knows, work on my skin cancer this summer.

Hind sight is 20/20.
 
Yes, it is always 20/20.
Mark, you have a good attitude about it.
Boats are never investments in terms of fancial recovery.
They are almost always expenses only, and we just use it up in the form of enjoyment.

FWIW, if you should do this again, and with an older boat, consider the Volvo Penta.
That 165 is great engine... no question about it!
The little Volvo Penta OHC 4's are pretty hard to beat.
The V-6's and V-8's are pretty much the same between the Merc and Volvo.
But the Volvo Penta will offer you a much better stern drive system.


Have fun!
 
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RicardoMarine said:
But the Volvo Penta will offer you a much better stern drive system.
Click to expand...

Well I have a different opinion...........

Merc owns probably 60-70% of the outdrive market. This means parts are readily available as well as shops/people to do repairs as well as old used parts.

OMC and Volvo penta and all others share the 30-40% of the rest of the market.

Volvo penta as you say is hard to beat, it is also hard to find parts and they are typically very costly as I believe most come form sweeden (?) or where ever they are manufactured these days. It is also very diffficult to find a qualified shop/person to work on them. Only one out of ten shops will be certified on volvo Penta. 9 out of 10 will be Merc certified.

Are Mercs the best, Not for me to say, BUT how many 1970's omc's and volvo penta's are there out there and how difficult is it to repair them or get parts?

Just my opinion..........
 
As a kid in Monterey when we were just a poor Teachers Family---my dad bought a 15' Glaspar with a 55 Evenrude (sp). We towed it with dad's 71 Pinto back and forth to the lake. I was the baby in the family. My various older brothers had begun to hook up with the rich boys from Carmel whose folks had money. Just dad mom and me. Oh and a siamese cat named Oliver--:)

Dad and I took that little boat to San Antonio Lake down near King City, California. While my brothers were off with the flat bottom boats chasing the girls with their skiing accomplishments Dad and I went fishing. The little Glaspar was sold to one of dad's teachers when I finished high school and moved to Fresno in 72. My older brothers would stall the boat in the water when they were water skiing. Since it was not big enough, power enough and fast enough they would not go out with my dad and me.

Kick forward 40 years later---I lost my dad last year tragically. I never married but got custody of a fling results in 84. Dad and mom helped me raise this kid. My brothers all moved on to colleges and missed out on the fun. While they all went through the Yuppy community with multiple marriages and careers, I tried to focus on my boy. I gave up teaching school to drive big rigs locally. (Money was twice what teachers made).

Last year when we lost dad I got the itch to slow down a bit, retire, and start enjoying smaller things in life. Hence---the Renken. My boy who is a airline pilot flipped over this boat. He never got a chance to go water skiing as a kid. :)

When the hunt for a boat began we looked at lots upon lots of boats. Both the boy and I settled upon this boat mainly because the title was up-to-date AND it was a stern drive. My desire is a 27 Bayliner Cuddy Cabin to take to the coast off Monterey Bay. Even if I can find one that could use the power and stern unit from my current boat. Since clearly I am going to have a decent drive unit by the time this is all said and done.

Long and the short of this is I will man up, fix this unit right, and enjoy the heck out of it until something comes along that meets my needs to a higher degree. I fault my choice of shops from the get-go but have corrected this.

Economy the way it is, there are tons of boats on the market on the cheap. BUT being clueless to the drives on these I am a spring time virgin waiting to be plucked. The first shop saw me as a CASH COW which will not happen again.

Today the boat will be correctly diagnosed and repaired. My instructions to Tony at T-L Boats was to pull the motor then call me. I want to see what is behind that motor stashed back behind the trim unit. So in the future I might be able to handle repairs myself.

All in all it appears the exhaust tube from the back of the motor to where it connects to the bottom of the inner transom is rotted, loose, broken, not connected. The owner Tony of the shop said at the rate the water was coming in it appears to be broken down there somewhere.
 
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Kghost...... I have no dog in any fight here..... and certainly don't want to lock horns.
IMO, and in all honesty, we really need to have V/P experience to understand why these hold up so well, and to understand why these and parts will be around for yet years to come.

kghost said:
Well I have a different opinion...........
Oh I know..... not all are on board with the idea.
If you've previously owned both (and I have... both in ownership and service work), and have looked at this in an unbios fashion, perhaps you'd agree..... but perhaps not.

Merc owns probably 60-70% of the outdrive market. This means parts are readily available as well as shops/people to do repairs as well as old used parts.
I don't disagree.... the industry ran with Merc..... cost being a factor.
So yes...... we will find many more Merc certified shops than we will V/P.
Add to this that the Brunswick Family Boat Company, Inc. has owned Merc for years........ and there ya go.
(all Brunswick Bayliner boats after 1990-91, I believe, are all Merc powered)

OMC and Volvo penta and all others share the 30-40% of the rest of the market.
Can't fairly use OMC in a today comparison..... but I understand.

Volvo penta as you say is hard to beat,
No arguement here!
Quick story:
A good friend of mine owns/operates a boat salvage yard...... all brands/all drives.
Here's his breakdown of which drives sell best... he calls this his "Bread n Butter" list:
(btw.... similar salvage yards in our area will tell you this same story)
  • OMC..... best seller for parts and complete drives... from Stringers to Cobras.
  • Merc.... second best seller for parts and complete drives.
  • Volvo Penta.... least best selling for parts and complete drives.
Even when considering the market share difference...... you'd still have to ask yourself why?

it is also hard to find parts and they are typically very costly as I believe most come form sweeden (?) or where ever they are manufactured these days. Again, I don't disagree with much of this.
But to say that parts are difficult to find, is simply not so!

It is also very diffficult to find a qualified shop/person to work on them. Only one out of ten shops will be certified on volvo Penta. 9 out of 10 will be Merc certified.
Well, depends on which part of our country you are in...... but yes....... and this has always surprised me!
Reason: If you are the least bit mechanically inclined, there is no excuse what-so-ever for not understanding the AQ series Volvo Penta stern drives.
These are trunly the most user friendly drives to work on and service, IMO.
Three pc drive.... separate components....... No Gimbal affair.... no rubber hub drive coupler..... no annual engine alignment..... simple bellows replacement...... No ridiculous ESA or SA...... no Dog Clutch....... and so on.
Merc did eventually gain the pattent rights to Volvo Penta's Cone Clutch design..... so I must limit my "Dog Clutch" comments to the earlier A drives.

(I should probably be ducking right about now!) :D :D

Are Mercs the best, Not for me to say, BUT how many 1970's omc's and volvo penta's are there out there and how difficult is it to repair them or get parts?
I won't touch an OMC with a ten foot pole.
But any of the AQ series V/P drive offers a tremendous parts interchangeability.... making the 70's drives a non-issue.


Just my opinion..........
I know.... and I appreciate that as you hopefully do mine.
Click to expand...

It may be note worthy to add that V/P did offer a Hydraulic trim/tilt system early on.
However, the 250/270/280 lift out only drives gained them a bad rap in the area of not offering Power Trim.

V/P ended up with an even better hydraulic Trim/Tilt system in the late 80's.... and better yet in the 90's.


Let me know when I can raise my head! :D
 
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IMO, Early Volvo's set the standard for duability of its internal components and that is where it ends. Then Volvo Penta merging with OMC to gain there drive case and fitting them with Volvo internals has made them the complete durability package.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
IMO, Early Volvo's set the standard for duability of its internal components and that is where it ends.
Then Volvo Penta merging with OMC to gain there drive case and fitting them with Volvo internals has made them the complete durability package.
Click to expand...
Chris, do I need to duck again? :D
Talk to the boys who work on the Gimbal system suspension Vovlo Penta drives.... SX, DP-S and after.... and who also work on the AQ series.
The good stuff ended with the AQ series in/around 1996 or so.... but again.... IMO.

.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Chris, do I need to duck again? :D
Talk to the boys who work on the Gimbal system suspension Vovlo Penta drives.... SX, DP-S and after.... and who also work on the AQ series.
The good stuff ended with the AQ series in/around 1996 or so.... but again.... IMO.

.
Click to expand...

No need to duck Rick,
I like the Early Volvo AQ series. They are good for my wallet. Problem is, most who own them do not service them the way they need to be. Hence lots of broken steering forks and Helmets. The reverse drive lock was a poor design with too many delicate parts that sit in sea water.
 
RicardoMarine said:
I've been a rather anal mechanic since the 60's... both Auto and Heavy equipment... hydraulics/pneumatics/electrical and mechanical, etc, and with one or two fingers always in HP Auto.
Been doing the Mercs (no longer) and Volvo Pentas for about 23 years or so.
In either auto or marine, I have never had general success in locating a suction leak while using pressure.... and I have never had general success in locating a pressure leak while using vacuum.
Essentially, that's what he'd be doing if he were to fill the engine bay with water (in order to find a leak that is leaking from the outside in).
That would be like a Liberal trying to pull himself up while standing in a bucket and pulling on the handle.

The Merc mechanic should know of all the possible areas where this could be leaking, and if he'll use a paper towel with the boat in the water, he should be able to pin point the leak....... or at least narrow it down.

Don't mean to come across negative here.... but I'd suggest that you don't get yourself duped twice.

.
Click to expand...

In my opinion this is a valad test. I have done this several time over the years to find a difficult leak. Not all leaks are easy to see or find.

If the boat on the trailer is lifted by the tongue as high as possible and water added to the boat the leak will appear very quickly before water has a chance to contact any electrical or motor/oil areas.

If it is as low as stated it will be seen very quickly.
 
Not to cause issue but the issue here but (hind site 20/20) is not so much buying a cheap boat.

In my opinion part of the issue is how old it is. If you are amungst the not knowing of boats and what to look for when buying one (used) or (used and old) then it would have been better to have a shop look at it before purchase and most of all if possible buy newer.

Also if this had been a salt water boat (very important when buying a outdrive style boat) then that would have been a very important issue to consider. Old salt boats (outdrive styles) do not fair well. Fresh water boats on the other hand can last a long time and can be kept running with good maitanence.

You like the inline six cylinder? You would have LOVED the V6!!! in newer boats.

The inline 6 is becomming extinct as they do not make them anymore and parts will become harder and harder to find.

Oh and one more thing,

STAY AWAY FROM THE MERC WITH THE BIG BLOCK FORD HEAD...........That will cost you!!!!!!!!!
It may look cool but for you that is all you should consider, It looks cool!
 
In the wiring harness if still original there is a 10 ga black to the dash, it goes thru the LARGE round connector at the motor.

If you have no power to the coil when the key is on then you may have a interlock switch (SHIFT INTERUPT SWITCH) bieng made. You need a manual with schematics............

It is reccomended to replace the carter electric with a MARINE ONLY fuel pump. PERIOD!

If you go electrical you HAVE to go with a MARINE APPROVED and it has to be connected to a oil pressure switch (normally open contacts) then to ignition on/run so with the loss of pressure the pump will shut off or with no pressure when cranking it will not run..........

Also I thought the points should see ~ 9 volts..........the resistor wire is ~ 2 ohms..........

Is this ignition still points? or has it been converted to electronic?
 
Of course I am always looking for a more modern boat. With Taxifornia being the way things are, where homes in 05 sold for 400k are now on the market for 99k and not selling, the toys are equally reasonable.

The problem--is the shops charging 100 an hour to put back together what one buys with their eyes open.
 
UPDATE:

Shop has diagnosed a leaking transom seal. So he said he can do this in 6 hours @ $80 an hour with a $7.00 part. He will check all electrical connections, replace my automotive fuel pump and put side rails on the trailer.

So-----1 week before I get my feet wet again!
:eek:

Original points setup on this boat. Marine starter, marine carb, non marine fuel pump. Generally this boat looks as if it sat in the water un-used for several years by the PO. My take is they used it up, then it went thru several owners before I got it. I am correcting all the issues then breathing life back into this boat. :rolleyes:
 
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Just for your info,

To do a transom seal

1. outdrive needs to be removed
2. engine needs to be removed
3. transom disaasembled (note: you may need some additional parts once he is in there) most likely the thru transom bolts. ALso have him check the coupler!! this is the time to replace it and start with a new one!!!! If it goes while running in the water the same proceedure and time and cost will reoccur. Coupler cost ~ $200 ish (once and done!!)
4. transom to be reassembled
5. engine reinstalled.
6. engine to gimbal bearing aligned
7. out drive intsalled
8. on trailer run engine and shake any issues out.
9. LAKE TEST BEFORE DELIVERY to make sure no other issues are present.

So as you can see this is not an easy job and requires a lot of time and labor and EXPERTISE!!!!

10. take delivery and enjoy your now properly running boat. (hopefully)
 
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