OMC 3 gal gas tank repair

[camplejeune]

Hello everyone,
I have just received a 3 gal. steel gas tank that came from my father a long with a 1973 6hp Evinrude to connect to it. Dad had left a small amount of fuel in this tank since about 2007.

I tired to dump out the nasty crap only to realize that what looks like a fuel filter from the fuel pick up tube is rolling around inside.

There is no access into this tank other than thru the gas fill opening. Are theses repairable or should I just consider buying a new plastic tank?

I have another question, I assume a tank design that does not allow easy fuel draining was done on purpose to sell more tanks and to create work for the Marine Engine repair businesses?

Thank you,

 

[timguy]

Welcome..The little vent normally does come loose inside. Really don't need it. Go to a self controlled vented cap like this. Don't bother with a plastic tank....they are basically garbage. They are not vented and can build tremendous pressure in the sun. Then it cools off and rains....they contract and suck in moisture....pretty stupid. When under pressure it pushes into the fuel pump and carburetor causing excessive pressure and possible diaphragm, check valve or float valve leaks. Just soak your tank for a few hours with muriatic/hydrochloric acid, (longer if it has more rust and debris). Take out the supply tube first and plug the hole, and set aside, later carefully cleaning the screen. After your acid looks like it has loosened the debris then rinse with warm water, then a baking soda solution of about 1 L water and 2 tablespoons baking soda to neutralize the acid. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry out with a hair dryer or air hose. These tanks were not engineered to wear out but the introduction of ethanol fuel has caused damage because of its hygroscopic properties. Besides that, most people know that at the end of the season the tank should be emptied and dried.
Note: 6 horsepower came standard with a 6 gallon tank so that little tank likely came with a four horsepower. I restore steel tanks all the time. They are certainly far superior to the crap out there now. You should replace the hose with "rubber" 5/16". The new laminated hose materials are also problematic.....as well as the "plastic" primer/squeeze bulbs. Retain your original rubber bulb and flush with fresh gas or solvent. The coupling going to the motor is better quality than most replacements. You can tell by looking at the pin opening and see a metal sleeve inside. The o-ring is replaceable and be careful using something similar to a dental tool while you push the check ball down out of the way with an object that will not scratch it. Alternatively I use a clamp or vice and carefully squeeze the coupling while pushing the check ball down just enough to hold it in place with the pressure.