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Suggestions on using an oil extractor

4

43_lx_merc_1996

Regular Contributor
I just picked up an oil extractor that is meant to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube "to make the process easier". For some reason it is very difficult to get the oil out. The unit has decent suction. Any suggestions?

Engine is VP AQ260 5.7 V8.

Thanks,

Chris
 
Get the engine good and hot. The oil will flow easier and you'll get any particulates in the system to be suspended in the oil which will then be pumped out. Some of the older engines such as Chryslers didn't have the tubes going to the bottom of the oil pan so you needed to insert an extraction tube down the dipstick tube and down to the bottom of the pan. I suspect your engine however doesn't need the extraction tube inserted in the dipstick tube. Just extract off the top of the opening. Has to be a good seal so you don't suck back air. I suspect you may also have a male garden hose fitting built in to the top of your dipstick tube. You can rig up a fitting to accomodate this to your extractor using a female garden hose fitting.
 
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Most Volvo Penta dipstick tubes have the large hose connection on the end of the tube. You need to use the large connector, pushing a piece of hose over the tube will not work. There is a drain hole inside the large connection and it will just leak air. And warm the engine, it will drain faster.
 
Ditto Woodie and Chris re; warming up the oil/filter prior to draining/removing.
If nothing else, at least get the warm oil out, and crack the filter cartridge loose.
You can come back in a while, and remove the filter when cool.
In fact, the new oil could be installed while things are cooling down. Then do the filter. (pre-fill your new cartridge by 85% or so)

As for extracting..... I can't say enough good about the Tempo Oil Boy.
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These are "manual only", no battery cables to mess with, no pump to go bad. You just pump the handle to build vacuum, and sit back while it evacuates the oil.
These are tall and narrow, so finding a location for it to sit, is not usually an issue (as it is with some).
It will also work well for starting a siphon, extracting water, purging E/G/h2o coolant (when installing a cabin heater for example), etc.
I have owned two of these for years. One for oils/fuels.... one for water/coolant, etc. Both are still working well.

BTW, if your AQ 260 is OEM, it will not have the threaded dip stick tube.
The dip stick extraction method stinks anyway! :mad:
For this, I'd suggest a one-time-installation of an oil pan remote drain hose system.
It can be a hassle to install........, but you do this once only.
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Here's one that gives you a banjo fitting with two (2) 180* apposing ports. (the plug is for the port not used)
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The Oil Boy will come with a rubber hose (not shown) that can be adapted to connect to the oil drain hose via brass fitting.

.
 
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Dockside, I have never threaded a fitting onto the threaded end at the dipstick tube and have never had a problem. I have a special end on my extraction tube that I made up. The long end off a plug wire clamped to the extraction tube makes an excellent seal by just holding it in place. In fact, with the extractor in the right position, I don't even have to hold the tube, it's a snug pliable fit and works awsome for me!!
 
The 260 comes with 2 different dipstick tubes, the most common in the one that goes through the block and into the oil.
It's small so the hose going into it is smaller.
Warm up the engine and suck it out that way.Careful as it can get hot enough to burn.
Make sure the tube has a small angle on the end as you can stop flow if too close to the bottom.
Make sure the pick up tube is at the bottom.J
 
The dipstick tube can be used without the threaded fitting just as well and it eliminates one possible leak- the threads and washer that may/may not stay in place.

If the engine has the drain hose attached where the plug would normally be, I would recommend using it because it allows draining the oil from the lowest point on the pan.
 
Re the installation of a drain hose to remove oil,
I only have about 1/2" from the bottom of the fitting to the top of the hull (clearance).
I worry this is not enough if the hull flexes. The hull is a heavily built fiberglass skipjack.
Any worries about the hull flexing at this point?
Thanks
 
Leonard Thomas said:
Re the installation of a drain hose to remove oil,
I only have about 1/2" from the bottom of the fitting to the top of the hull (clearance).
I worry this is not enough if the hull flexes. The hull is a heavily built fiberglass skipjack.
Any worries about the hull flexing at this point?
Thanks
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If the hull is really "heavily built", it shouldn't flex unless that area is unsupported. If it's directly above the keel l ine, it shouldn't flex at all, really. 1/2" clearance would make me want to just use the extractor and teh dipstick tube- just don't push the plastic tube in too far- find out how far it needs to go outside of the engine, so it doesn't kink inside of the pan because it can be difficult to remove.

I have used a few different types of extractor, all with a plastic or brass tube that followed the dipstick tube and never had a problem- the brass type was used on engines with a straight dipstick tube. You'll definitely heat that one hit the bottom of the pan.

The small amount of old oil isn't enough to worry about unless it has mixed with water or a lot of gasoline and in that case, it's best to change the oil again, to mix with any that's in the engine.
 
Thank you for the reply, more or less tracks with my thoughts on the matter.
It is a VP AQ271A, and for whatever reason it is very difficult to extract the oil out through the dipstick, but will keep trying.
 
Leonard Thomas said:
Thank you for the reply, more or less tracks with my thoughts on the matter.
It is a VP AQ271A, and for whatever reason it is very difficult to extract the oil out through the dipstick, but will keep trying.
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Warm it up, use the thin plastic tube- I winterized many V-P engines and never has a problem as long as the oil was warm.
 
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