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Swap engine or repair outdrive? 230B / SPC - Outdrive needs help

J

jid

Contributing Member
I have a 40ft houseboat with a 1992 volvo penta 230B equipped with the SPC outboard. Boat had been in the water for 10 years and i took it out because it wouldnt' shift into gear. As it turns out, my list of outboard problems are as follows:

1 - Prop was missing! No wonder it wouldn't move forward
2 - cover that covers the linkages is missing. No wonder it is all gummed up.
3 - prior to prop falling off, it would shift FORWARD but wouldn't lock into REVERSE. I figured it was a hydraulic issue.

So the question is this: What are my options for outboards? It has an SPC on it but i'm wondering if this is something i should junk or just rebuild. Or are there other outdrive options i can mate with this motor? Or would it be easier/cheaper to just swap the entire set-up for something else? I'd love to have a bigger motor in this boat so i'm not against a motor swap. But I have no idea what would mate up. The 230B is running great so it would be a waste to junk it.

Thoughts?

And where should i look to get the SPC rebuilt if that is an option?

Joseph
 
So the question is this: What are my options for outboards? It has an SPC on it but i'm wondering if this is something i should junk or just rebuild.
IMO....... the C drive is among the best.

Or are there other outdrive options i can mate with this Engine?
You could go back earlier....... but I would not!

Or would it be easier/cheaper to just swap the entire set-up for something else?
You have an AQ series stern drive (the best out there by the way).
The Volvo Penta AQ series transom shield "cut out" is much larger than any Gimbal System stern drive.
If you were to change from an AQ series, your structural transom would require an extensive "in-fill".

I'd love to have a bigger motor in this boat so i'm not against a motor swap. But I have no idea what would mate up. The 230B is running great so it would be a waste to junk it.
AQ series lends itself to a vast array of interchangeability.
Keep in mind that you do not have a planing hull.

Thoughts?

And where should i look to get the SPC rebuilt if that is an option?
Your final drive reduction is 2.15:1.
Since the OHC 4 cylinder engine stern drives DO NOT typically wear out, this ratio falls into the "dime/dozen" category, and should be very easy to find.
Find a good parts donor boat!
Click to expand...



Joseph, this will help you with regard to the Engine and Stern Drive.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7723820.aspx


 
jid said:
1 - Prop was missing! No wonder it wouldn't move forward
2 - cover that covers the linkages is missing. No wonder it is all gummed up.
3 - prior to prop falling off, it would shift FORWARD but wouldn't lock into REVERSE. I figured it was a hydraulic issue.

I'd love to have a bigger motor in this boat so i'm not against a motor swap. But I have no idea what would mate up. The 230B is running great so it would be a waste to junk it.

Thoughts?

And where should i look to get the SPC rebuilt if that is an option?

Joseph
Click to expand...

Re: Reverse... a hyfraulic problem.... On a 200 series drive, reverse lock is not hydraulic. It's mechanical, and sensitive to adjustment, gunk and wear on the hooks that hold the drive down. these latches list for about $100 each and are very easy to replace w/o removing the drive.

Re: bigger engine... How fast do you go now! If its a displacement hull and If the WATER LINE length is 35 ft, the max speed REGARDLESS OF HP is 8 kts ( 9.36 mph). If its 40 ft (unlikely!) then the max speed is 8.5 kts (about 10 mph).
 
So the motor is a 92 and the Outboard is an SPC. Is that hydraulic or no? If it is mechanical then i'm starting to be less afraid of the this. Sure I need to get a prop, but fixing the outboard may not be so bad.

Also, the electric TRIM doesn't work.

Recommendations for what to do to fix this?

And where do i get a prop? Maybe this will be easy!!!

Joseph

sandkicker said:
Re: Reverse... a hyfraulic problem.... On a 200 series drive, reverse lock is not hydraulic. It's mechanical, and sensitive to adjustment, gunk and wear on the hooks that hold the drive down. these latches list for about $100 each and are very easy to replace w/o removing the drive.

Re: bigger engine... How fast do you go now! If its a displacement hull and If the WATER LINE length is 35 ft, the max speed REGARDLESS OF HP is 8 kts ( 9.36 mph). If its 40 ft (unlikely!) then the max speed is 8.5 kts (about 10 mph).
Click to expand...
 
Found a cover.... so that is good. Link above shows it has something hydraulic in the outboard. I'll have to investigate that further.

How do i figure out what the prop should be since one is missing? And do the Penta's have an end-cap to keep them from spinning off?
 
Joseph, just to add some clarity for the guys:

..... you have a 40ft houseboat (displacement hull).
..... you have a 1992 volvo penta 230B equipped with the SP-C stern drive.
..... in 1992 the SP-C drive used hydraulic tilt and trim.
..... the nut at the AFT end of the Propeller shaft is a "spinner" (no castellated nut/no cotter pin).



.
 
Thanks for that summary!

For the spinner at the end of the propeller shaft, is it appropriate to use red loctite to keep it in place? With no nut or cotter pin, no wonder 2 of them spun off in the past!
 
To all concerned , Could that prop.system be customized to adapt a castellated nut and drill a cotterpin hole threw driveshaft,and if not why not?
 
jid said:
Thanks for that summary!

For the spinner at the end of the propeller shaft, is it appropriate to use red loctite to keep it in place? With no nut or cotter pin, no wonder 2 of them spun off in the past!
Click to expand...

Usually, the spinner has an axial thru hole for an allen head locking screw ( in addition to a radial one so you can tighten it) that threads into the end of the prop shaft. As furnished by Volvo, this (expensive) screw, P/N 850889, has a "blob" of locking goop deposited about a half inch from threaded end. Have run this system on my drives for over 10 years and never had an issue. And since you've lost these spinners, please note that P/N 850888 plastic washer is supposed to be between the spinner and the prop. The correct spinner is P/N 854045. Earlier spinners, with a castellated wide edge may thread on but won't lock properly. If you don't have the correct line cutter between the prop and drive housing, things also won't work well.
 
Last edited:
johnnygjr said:
To all concerned , Could that prop.system be customized to adapt a castellated nut and drill a cotterpin hole threw driveshaft,and if not why not?
Click to expand...

Johnny, it is not necessary!

The male thread pitch for the spinner and the female thread pitch for the spinner's locking bolt are quite different.
These two apposing pitches will fight each other if forces should decide to loosen the spinner.

The spinner shape also aids in reduced hydro flow resistance.


As for the OEM locking bolt...... that "pill" that is installed within the bolt threads can also be a detriment in that it may weaken the bolt's integrity. Should the bolt become corroded, they will often break right at the locking "pill" during removal.

The Marine Version of Anti-Seize can be used on the threads as to help prevent any issues.

.
 
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